Area 419 zero press

[drop_point]

I've been using the Area 419 Zero turret press since it was first released. It is a wonderful press. You will not make more accurate ammo than any other press providing you have competency on them. But what you do buy with the Area 419 Zero is flexibility and ease of use.

The pros for me:

1. You can set up your dies and leave them. Turrets change out easy and are very consistent when you reinstall them.

2. Spent primer collection is easy and clean.

3. You can use 7/8" dies and 1 1/4" dies with hybrid turrets.

4. The shell holder system allows you to use adaptable inserts for adjusting your headspace 0.002" at a time without changing die settings.

5. The press is extremely enjoyable to use with a nice bearing in the handle, adjustable length, and an overall feeling of quality when you use it. There is no slop and that is very confidence inspiring.


The cons for me:

1. Price of $1200 (look for Brownells coupons and buy it for them for a good discount).

2. The large opening is nice, but on really short cartridges, the curve of body of the press can make it difficult to put tiny bullets on tiny cartridges. For example, I have trouble seating 17 Ackley Hornet bullets on my Zero.

3. No native on-press priming. This can be solved by buying an Ugly Reloading PCPS, but you're adding even more expense.

If you have the money and would enjoy features like that, go for it! But do not be fooled by marketing that you'll produce significantly superior ammo because you're on a better press.

 

[LRPV]

First, I think almost any press would be an upgrade over a big boss 2, at least the one I have. It’s been back to them to be “fixed” and it’s still a POS. It’s only used for hydroforming now.

Zero press is super nice, very well made, shiny, smooth, even the box was impressive. I wasn’t interested until they made their shell holder system and that’s what made me buy one. For me, neither the press nor the shellholder made my brass prep any easier or more accurate. It’s a super nice press to use but it doesn’t produce any better results in the end. The shellholder system doesn’t change much for me. You’re still at the mercy of the elasticity of the brass case. The only thing that I don’t really like about it is seating bullets. The weight of the handle and the position it’s in when the bullet begins to seat takes what little feel there is out of bullet seating. I generally use an arbor press for seating so it’s not a big deal for me.

I have and/or have had Lyman turret, Rockchucker, T7, Big Boss II, Forster, old RCBS A2, and a MEC (my personal favorite at this time) If a press can’t catch a spent primer, it’s dead to me so that leaves the Zero, Coax and the MEC from the ones I’ve used. They all have their quirks but unless there’s a defect in them, like my BB2, they will make accurate/straight ammo with good dies. Like some guys have pointed out, spend your money on GOOD dies, GOOD brass and GOOD bullets. If you’ve already got all that, then by all means, buy a Zero and enjoy what you’re doing.

A little caveat on GOOD dies… just because the latest whiz bang die costs $300+ doesn’t make it good. A GOOD die is one that is straight fits your chamber well by doing the minimum sizing that is required to allow your ammo to function. Some companies struggle with this. I’ve had dies that I thought were great, so smooth to operate, it was almost like they were even doing anything… they weren’t. A couple firings in and it showed up that the dies were barely sizing anything. Off the shelf dies and custom reamers don’t exactly mesh like peas and carrots.

 

[Murray Brook]

off the shelf dies and custom reamers don’t exactly mesh like peas and carrots.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[longrangebanker]

I appreciate all of the info. I believe at the moment, I'll spend the money on the Amp annealer and a few other odds and ends before diving into that new Zero press. I like quality tools, and I enjoy reloading, so why not? Some of the best money I've spent on my reloading table is the Orange Vise with Area 419 jaw kit, man that is awesome, but it wasn't cheap. One thing I've learned in life is, good ain't cheap and cheap ain't good.

 

[nwmnbowhunter]

First, I think almost any press would be an upgrade over a big boss 2, at least the one I have. It’s been back to them to be “fixed” and it’s still a POS. It’s only used for hydroforming now.

Zero press is super nice, very well made, shiny, smooth, even the box was impressive. I wasn’t interested until they made their shell holder system and that’s what made me buy one. For me, neither the press nor the shellholder made my brass prep any easier or more accurate. It’s a super nice press to use but it doesn’t produce any better results in the end. The shellholder system doesn’t change much for me. You’re still at the mercy of the elasticity of the brass case. The only thing that I don’t really like about it is seating bullets. The weight of the handle and the position it’s in when the bullet begins to seat takes what little feel there is out of bullet seating. I generally use an arbor press for seating so it’s not a big deal for me.

I have and/or have had Lyman turret, Rockchucker, T7, Big Boss II, Forster, old RCBS A2, and a MEC (my personal favorite at this time) If a press can’t catch a spent primer, it’s dead to me so that leaves the Zero, Coax and the MEC from the ones I’ve used. They all have their quirks but unless there’s a defect in them, like my BB2, they will make accurate/straight ammo with good dies. Like some guys have pointed out, spend your money on GOOD dies, GOOD brass and GOOD bullets. If you’ve already got all that, then by all means, buy a Zero and enjoy what you’re doing.

A little caveat on GOOD dies… just because the latest whiz bang die costs $300+ doesn’t make it good. A GOOD die is one that is straight fits your chamber well by doing the minimum sizing that is required to allow your ammo to function. Some companies struggle with this. I’ve had dies that I thought were great, so smooth to operate, it was almost like they were even doing anything… they weren’t. A couple firings in and it showed up that the dies were barely sizing anything. Off the shelf dies and custom reamers don’t exactly mesh like peas and carrots.

You can shorten the handle on the zero easy enough to reduce leverage while seating bullets.

 

[LRPV]

You can shorten the handle on the zero easy enough to reduce leverage while seating bullets.

Thanks, I'll have to try that.

 

[nettle]

I have a T7. If someone can explain to me why an aluminum framed 419 is better than a cast iron framed T7 I would be interested in hearing it.

 

[LRPV]

I have a T7. If someone can explain to me why an aluminum framed 419 is better than a cast iron framed T7 I would be interested in hearing it.

Because it's really thick aluminum, it has steel where it needs it and the turret doesn't tip when you size brass. I can't remember the technical names of the parts but the zero uses a tapered pin/lock system to hold the turret in place. It's similar to what is used in CNC machine tool holders if I am remembering right. It actually locks the turret in place when using it versus a ball bearing detent like the T7 if that makes sense.

 

[jpjulian]

As LRPV says above, the turret is locked solidly in place and repeatable to <.0005" as a torque wrench is used to tighten the clamp. There is a spring and ball bearing for indexing but that ball and spring are not what holds the turret in place as does the T-7 & the Lyman eliminating any need for upgraded parts as sold by Creedmoor. That aluminum frame is massive, weighing 35 lbs. alone. I'm not dissing any other presses. The Zero is just an absolute joy to use.

 

[R.Morehouse]

I have one and wanted to use my arbor seating die. I ordered the Bullet Seating Plate from Area 419 and screwed in an old die in the turret for the seater to bump up against and it has been working out well. I got mine from a friend with the extra Hybrid Turret and it has saved me space, it really is a joy to operate. My RFD and a pair of Hollywood Seniors have taken a back seat for the in-house sizing and seating operations.

Regards
Rick

 

[BoydAllen]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

They can, if you have fired brass in the caliber you are building. Size the brass, measure it, decide what clearances you want, and order a reamer. Old, well used fired brass is best, because it will com out of the die slightly bigger than fresh stuff. This is not conjecture. I have done it, more than once. If you start with a one piece die, and do your calculations correctly, you can have the neck tension that you want, for a tight neck chamber, and the straightest sized brass you have ever made.

 

[Nvcnvc]

It really is a marvelous piece of engineering, but as my wife says, do you really need a Ferrari to go grocery shopping?
If you can afford it it is the best out there along with the German Prazi press. However my Forster co-ax has served me very well for many years and it does a great job assembling ammo for competition.

 

[Tesoro]

It really is a marvelous piece of engineering, but as my wife says, do you really need a Ferrari to go grocery shopping?
If you can afford it it is the best out there along with the German Prazi press. However my Forster co-ax has served me very well for many years and it does a great job assembling ammo for competition.

You said it! My vintage co-ax, being a part of my reloading tools, will help uniform my ammo better than I can shoot it at medium and long range. I am also not so 'pressed' for time that I can't afford the extra 27 seconds it takes to swap out a die. Call me Anachronistic.

 

[falconpilot]

Only thing I care about my press doing is sizing and bumping shoulders back consistency...I'm talking shoulder bump's under .001 range, most of the time .0005 range. The ONLY press that will do that is the press built by Arkco Machine, the Hood press.

The Area 51 is an awesome press with lots of neat features...but the long handle and force it allows applied results in very inconsistence should bumping for me..

 

[muleystalker]

Only thing I care about my press doing is sizing and bumping shoulders back consistency...I'm talking shoulder bump's under .001 range, most of the time .0005 range. The ONLY press that will do that is the press built by Arkco Machine, the Hood press.

The Area 51 is an awesome press with lots of neat features...but the long handle and force it allows applied results in very inconsistence should bumping for me..

The handle length is adjustable and they also make a short handle I believe, as does Forster for the Coax.

 

[precision1]

Hasn't the thought always been buy good dies cause the shell holder free floats in press to self center and if using redding competition shell holders once you have metal to metal contact all should be good? Idk

Id like to hear if I'm wrong.just curious

 

[nettle]

Saying an aluminum press is stronger than a cast iron press because of engineering? It has a tapered locking pin and costs as much as a Dillon 750 with an automatic case and bullet feeder.

 

[J.d. Popkes]

First, I think almost any press would be an upgrade over a big boss 2, at least the one I have. It’s been back to them to be “fixed” and it’s still a POS. It’s only used for hydroforming now.

Zero press is super nice, very well made, shiny, smooth, even the box was impressive. I wasn’t interested until they made their shell holder system and that’s what made me buy one. For me, neither the press nor the shellholder made my brass prep any easier or more accurate. It’s a super nice press to use but it doesn’t produce any better results in the end. The shellholder system doesn’t change much for me. You’re still at the mercy of the elasticity of the brass case. The only thing that I don’t really like about it is seating bullets. The weight of the handle and the position it’s in when the bullet begins to seat takes what little feel there is out of bullet seating. I generally use an arbor press for seating so it’s not a big deal for me.

I have and/or have had Lyman turret, Rockchucker, T7, Big Boss II, Forster, old RCBS A2, and a MEC (my personal favorite at this time) If a press can’t catch a spent primer, it’s dead to me so that leaves the Zero, Coax and the MEC from the ones I’ve used. They all have their quirks but unless there’s a defect in them, like my BB2, they will make accurate/straight ammo with good dies. Like some guys have pointed out, spend your money on GOOD dies, GOOD brass and GOOD bullets. If you’ve already got all that, then by all means, buy a Zero and enjoy what you’re doing.

A little caveat on GOOD dies… just because the latest whiz bang die costs $300+ doesn’t make it good. A GOOD die is one that is straight fits your chamber well by doing the minimum sizing that is required to allow your ammo to function. Some companies struggle with this. I’ve had dies that I thought were great, so smooth to operate, it was almost like they were even doing anything… they weren’t. A couple firings in and it showed up that the dies were barely sizing anything. Off the shelf dies and custom reamers don’t exactly mesh like peas and carrots.

I’d be curious to know what was wrong with a big boss 2?

 

[LRPV]

I’d be curious to know what was wrong with a big boss 2?

It’s got a problem. The ram twists at the top of the stroke and if shellholder makes contact with the die it will eventually unscrew it. Sent it back, they rebuilt a brand new press with a new ram and whatever else. Still does the same thing. I just got a bad one. Shit happens.

 

[drop_point]

Saying an aluminum press is stronger than a cast iron press because of engineering? It has a tapered locking pin and costs as much as a Dillon 750 with an automatic case and bullet feeder.

Have you used one? Have you used one next to a Redding?