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no doubt
i always grind that screw down where it does not get into the barrel threads when i install a new barrel. might be the reason so many have a hard time removing a factory barrel
and if they use loctite on the base screws it seeps into the barrel threadsGreat post I forgot about the mount screw engaging the rifling.
perry42
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This one is 3/8". The wrench and I both can get a better purchase with it being thicker overall. I'd still remove the scope when taking off a barrel, though.
Would u mimd posting a pic of ur wrench, id like to copy that idea. Thank youTake the scope off. Unless its a very thick wrench you are going to spread a C shaped one. In fact buying a C wrench is pretty much going to guarantee you'll find a gorilla on steroids installed nut. I personally don't like the overhang style rails, never needed to move the scope that far forward, but can see maybe a prone shooter needing it.
And I milled a slot in my action wrench so the rail can stay on the action.
I've been using this setup for last 20+ years.....Would u mind posting a pic of ur wrench, id like to copy that idea. Thank you
Rear entry barrel wrench (like Pike's) are the same tool for Savage and Rem700's.
I use almost the exact same setup. Works great for a quick barrel swap on previously installed barrels with a little antisieze on the barrel threads. I don't "gorilla" up the barrel nut like factory installed. Hand tight and then snug up with modified Savage wrench.i saw this a long time ago on SavageShooter.com ...................thanks Bill for this
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Not all of them. The Davidson ones from Sinclair's that I linked to earlier are action-specific, and the one I have *will not* fit a Rem700 (i tried)... it says "Stolle / Savage".