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Are all Remington 700 action wrenches created equal?

I'm looking for an internal wrench to remove barrels. Currently I'm only removing non factory barrel. Any recommendations for a good wrench? Anyone have a spare they want to let go?
 
I like and use this style because its 7075 Alum
So is strong but doesnt hurt the finish
It slips in through the side port and engages the lug area
Doesn't need any extra sockets or Wrenches etc
 
I like and use this style because its 7075 Alum
So is strong but doesnt hurt the finish
It slips in through the side port and engages the lug area
Doesn't need any extra sockets or Wrenches etc

Agreed.

The Davidson wrench is my choice.
 
The steel through-wrench (upturned at the back) is all I'll use. I have a Kelbly's and the PMA is a clone of it. I can't imagine how many barrels I've removed with it over the years. Works on anything with a 700-style raceway (Remingtons, Kelbly, Borden, the 700 clones, etc.).

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
I went Bugholes after asking this same question.
Very happy.

Had a thru the port steel model once. Brand XX? Man Gunsmith Barrel Maker Pal said " Not in my Shop or Actions".
 
I have two. One rear entry, made of c1045 shafting, and one port entry, made of 1x2 cold rolled mild steel. The mild steel one would distort after a while, so I case hardened it. I may make another of a better material. For installing and removing custom barrels, it doesn't take much, but some factory barrels are tight. I have similar wrench made for Kimbers and it bends easily if the barrel is too tight. I'll definitely make one of these with a better material. Mild steel just won't do it for these (skinny raceways) WH
 
The internal wrenches work well but be careful with breaker bars on the factory barrel removals, you can break the raceways. I’ve seen it happen…
 
The internal wrenches work well but be careful with breaker bars on the factory barrel removals, you can break the raceways. I’ve seen it happen…
They use some pretty strong loctite on their barrels man
Need a propane torch to break it loose
Even then, the last "Factory" barrel I removed on a new rifle last Oct 2024,
I felt it start to unscrew so gave it a good Umph!
The loctite solidifies back up in rather short period of time but I put my weight into it and grabbed on... and dislocated my shoulder instead of the barrel
Gotta work fast when it's still hot and the goop in the threads is bubbling out
I should have used a cheater bar to save my shoulder so i can see why guys use them
A good finess in feel for whats happening there is important if you use a cheater bar
--------------
I've removed an old factory Steyr 1900 barrel that wasn't as difficult as Remingtons sometimes are
 
The internal wrenches work well but be careful with breaker bars on the factory barrel removals, you can break the raceways. I’ve seen it happen…
Been there (I don't like talk about it). Subsequently, I was sure to make the wrenches so they would be clear of the rails. Contact inside the receiver ring only WH
 
Davidson rear entry is what I have. Would take me more $ in time and material than what I can buy it for so that is what I did. Not disappointed. It’s a bit more expensive now than when I bought mine but still top notch. Won’t fit a Pierce though… found that out.

For factory Remington, etc I have a wrap around i made about 25 years ago. One solid thwack of the handle with a 4# deadblow generally gets factory barrels loose.

IMG_5936.png
 
They use some pretty strong loctite on their barrels man
Need a propane torch to break it loose
Even then, the last "Factory" barrel I removed on a new rifle last Oct 2024,
I felt it start to unscrew so gave it a good Umph!
The loctite solidifies back up in rather short period of time but I put my weight into it and grabbed on... and dislocated my shoulder instead of the barrel
Gotta work fast when it's still hot and the goop in the threads is bubbling out
I should have used a cheater bar to save my shoulder so i can see why guys use them
A good finess in feel for whats happening there is important if you use a cheater bar
--------------
I've removed an old factory Steyr 1900 barrel that wasn't as difficult as Remingtons sometimes are
A trick that was shown to me…it almost takes three hands to do but do the heat as you mentioned, use the wrench and put pressure on the action, then smack the hell out of the recoil lug with a brass hammer.

I’ll about to the point of parting them all off and not messing with it. Lately I’ve been busy enough the last two I just refused to mess with. I’m pretty convinced Tikka employs a silverback to tighten theirs :rolleyes:
 
These are my rear entry wrenches. They all place pressure only on the front lug abutments.

The left is a Kelbly, (I don’t know why they quit making them), the middle is one I made for my Bat M, the one on the right is for the Bat Neuvo. I make mine out of an appropriate sized Grade 8 bolt as a material source.IMG_0518.jpeg
 
I ended up making my own out of 4140 chrome then went to a mates place and hardened it when he was doing a few knives. Best thing I ever did .
 

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