Ar15 stuck case help

[hikfromstik]

Just was trying to finish off the rest of my last batch of 223 reloads and accidentally shot one of my bolt action loads ( with a temp sensitive powder ) in my AR15 . Anyways, I've tried the " Mortaring" technique with no luck . It moved a bit and now will not budge. I blasted some kroil down the barrel to let it soak till I find out what to do . Any help would be appreciated .

 

[Hotshot]

I would put a block of wood against the bolt release and rap it with a hammer. I won't tell you how I know this works.

 

[hogpatrol]

junk cleaning rod down the bore & whack it while pulling on the charging handle. I won't tell you how I know this works.

 

[hikfromstik]

Yeah . I'm about to try it . I think the kroil has set enough to work.

 

[jepp2]

Just was trying to finish off the rest of my last batch of 223 reloads and accidentally shot one of my bolt action loads ( with a temp sensitive powder ) in my AR15 . Anyways, I've tried the " Mortaring" technique with no luck . It moved a bit and now will not budge. I blasted some kroil down the barrel to let it soak till I find out what to do . Any help would be appreciated .

Just to clarify, the round did chamber and fire, right? So you are not dealing with a live round that the bolt didn't close completely on.

I haven't had a fired round hang up in the chamber, but I did encounter some improperly sized cases the bolt wouldn't completely close on. For those the mortar technique always cleared them. If you have a collapsible stock you need to fully collapse it, or you will break it. And while pulling back on the charging handle, come down HARD on the buttstock.

And if that doesn't work, then I would move on to a solid brass rod 3/16" diameter (.1875") cut to about 1" longer than the end of your barrel. Many small taps with a hammer will move things. But if you can't aim well enough to avoid hitting the end of your barrel (not a good thing), cut a block of wood about 1/2" thick and drill a hole in it for the rod. Let it protect your errant hammer blows.

 

[hikfromstik]

Got it out . I ended up bending my charging handle , but woopidy do , I didn't harm my barrel .
EDIT: elation quickly turned south after bolt and carrier locked

 

[hikfromstik]

Just to clarify, the round did chamber and fire, right? So you are not dealing with a live round that the bolt didn't close completely on.

I haven't had a fired round hang up in the chamber, but I did encounter some improperly sized cases the bolt wouldn't completely close on. For those the mortar technique always cleared them. If you have a collapsible stock you need to fully collapse it, or you will break it. And while pulling back on the charging handle, come down HARD on the buttstock.

And if that doesn't work, then I would move on to a solid brass rod 3/16" diameter (.1875") cut to about 1" longer than the end of your barrel. Many small taps with a hammer will move things. But if you can't aim well enough to avoid hitting the end of your barrel (not a good thing), cut a block of wood about 1/2" thick and drill a hole in it for the rod. Let it protect your errant hammer blows.

Good thinking . It was a fired round ( not live ) .

 

[hikfromstik]

Looks like I have bigger problems . My bolt and carrier is stuck after getting the case out . Looks like either a I broke the cam pin or maybe a primer or something has binded it up. After inspection of the removed case it looks identical to the lighter loads for my ar15 ( no bulge ). I'm guessing the higher power bolt action loads broke something in my bolt . I'm gonna take my time on this because this is a Vltor upper and I don't want to have to buy another . If anyone has had experience I'm all ears . This teaches me that after 8yrs of ar15 building and over 10,000 reloads that I'm still the student .

 

[Richard Coody]

Looks like I have bigger problems . My bolt and carrier is stuck after getting the case out . Looks like either a I broke the cam pin or maybe a primer or something has binded it up. After inspection of the removed case it looks identical to the lighter loads for my ar15 ( no bulge ). I'm guessing the higher power bolt action loads broke something in my bolt . I'm gonna take my time on this because this is a Vltor upper and I don't want to have to buy another . If anyone has had experience I'm all ears . This teaches me that after 8yrs of ar15 building and over 10,000 reloads that I'm still the student .

drop the lower and see if you can remove the bolt carrier group. getting to it from the bottom is a much better option then beating on the charging handle.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Looks like I have bigger problems . My bolt and carrier is stuck after getting the case out . Looks like either a I broke the cam pin or maybe a primer or something has binded it up. After inspection of the removed case it looks identical to the lighter loads for my ar15 ( no bulge ). I'm guessing the higher power bolt action loads broke something in my bolt . I'm gonna take my time on this because this is a Vltor upper and I don't want to have to buy another . If anyone has had experience I'm all ears . This teaches me that after 8yrs of ar15 building and over 10,000 reloads that I'm still the student .

Bolt lug broken off in there?

 

[hikfromstik]

Bolt lug broken off in there?

I looked and can't see a lug ,but there could be one in the other side that I can't see . Its (bolt and carrier) almost out of the upper ,but the further I pull it the tighter it gets . I'm thinking there us a broken part wedged . I've push it forward and back trying to loosen it . Looks like the bolt is crooked ,so I'm guessing cam pin , but really won't know until I get it out .

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Did you get the bent charging handle out?

 

[Rsadams]

Is the primer still in the case you removed..? Reach into the magwell with something and push the BCG into the buffer tube , then crack the upper and lower apart... Or remove the buffer tube and spring completely then work on it...

 

[hikfromstik]

I have removed the lower . I took buffer tube off . The charging handle is just bent at the latch area. I have a spare so I'm not worried about that . The second to last round before the jam DID blow a primer the others weren't flattened bad . I'm thinking now a primer is wedged in the carrier somewhere ,but who knows . Looking at my load data on that particular load of H335 I was using 27 grains ( my bolt action load ) with 53gr VMAX . So I was 0.3gn over Sierra's max AR15 max load data . I don't think that would be enough to break a cam pin , but I'm no AR15 expert . The brass was 6 times fired Winchester . I'm betting loose primer pocket .

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Some powders just dont work with a non adjustable dwell time on an ar. Couple that with a sticky chamber or neck sized brass and weird things happen. Ive seen em tear a spot off the rim with the case stuck halfway in. The primer can come out in that case and jam stuff up.

 

[Rsadams]

I have removed the lower . I took buffer tube off . The charging handle is just bent at the latch area. I have a spare so I'm not worried about that . The second to last round before the jam DID blow a primer the others weren't flattened bad . I'm thinking now a primer is wedged in the carrier somewhere ,but who knows . Looking at my load data on that particular load of H335 I was using 27 grains ( my bolt action load ) with 53gr VMAX . So I was 0.3gn over Sierra's max AR15 max load data . I don't think that would be enough to break a cam pin , but I'm no AR15 expert . The brass was 6 times fired Winchester . I'm betting loose primer pocket .

Primer stuck on top of the BCG?..Try tapping it forward with the upper , nose down , barrel end down... See if you can get it to drop out... Primers do dad things the the AR platform....if there's an empty shell up there's , pull the bolt back as far as you can , it will be hard but get it back as far as you can , and basically karate chop the chargeing handle forwards... This should knock it out.. old trick but I have seen alot of people that don't know it and a bolt over malfunction throws them for a loop...

 

[hikfromstik]

Primer stuck on top of the BCG?..Try tapping it forward with the upper , nose down , barrel end down... See if you can get it to drop out... Primers do dad things the the AR platform....if there's an empty shell up there's , pull the bolt back as far as you can , it will be hard but get it back as far as you can , and basically karate chop the chargeing handle forwards... This should knock it out.. old trick but I have seen alot of people that don't know it and a bolt over malfunction throws them for a loop...

I got the primer out !!!yahhh . I slowly worked the carrier back and forth and I could hear the clicking sound of something not right . On the last tug backwards I heard it fall and the carrier slid right out . No damages to anything except my $14 charging handle . I was looking at getting a better one anyways . Everything looks great . Tomorrow morning I'm gonna borrow my AR Grendel charging handle and do a function test after I clean it up good . Thanks all for the help and thanks to the good people who make kroil . Before the kroil it wouldn't budge .

 

[Rsadams]

Check out BCM for a great charge handel..... Glad that was all that was wrong.... This is why I don't use .223 brass with loose primer pockets... Loose primers are really bad in the AR.. and can stop one cold...

 

[searcher]

I have removed the lower . I took buffer tube off . The charging handle is just bent at the latch area. I have a spare so I'm not worried about that . The second to last round before the jam DID blow a primer the others weren't flattened bad . I'm thinking now a primer is wedged in the carrier somewhere ,but who knows . Looking at my load data on that particular load of H335 I was using 27 grains ( my bolt action load ) with 53gr VMAX . So I was 0.3gn over Sierra's max AR15 max load data . I don't think that would be enough to break a cam pin , but I'm no AR15 expert . The brass was 6 times fired Winchester . I'm betting loose primer pocket .

The loads in the Sierra Manual are a bit warmer than a lot of the other manuals in my experience. My match A/R can't handle their accuracy load with a 69 Match King, though nothing like what you are encountering - just primer leakage, bolt pitting, etc. The maxes on the bolt guns are also a lot higher than the section for A/R's

 

[Rsadams]

The loads in the Sierra Manual are a bit warmer than a lot of the other manuals in my experience. My match A/R can't handle their accuracy load with a 69 Match King, though nothing like what you are encountering - just primer leakage, bolt pitting, etc. The maxes on the bolt guns are also a lot higher than the section for A/R's

Even their pistol load data is higher than my other manuals....