Yup
Good lube and/or a quality spring like a flat wire.
AR build help
- Thread starter 410smallbore
- Start date
Good lube and/or a quality spring like a flat wire.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
My experience even the flat wire needs lube.
I've done 2-3 dozen barrel installs for myself and friends using a vise block that secures the upper via the two pins...zero issues. But we stay withing recommended torque specs. YMMV. I think it cost 20 bucks.
I was going n your shoes a few years ago. i bought a couple uppers from Bear Creek arsonel amd assembled my own lowers. Unfortunately nothing worked and I had to re build the uppers. Ended up with xcaliber and faxon match 18” barrels on mine and my daughters. Both barrels foul very little and shoot .5 moa or maybe better, happy with both of them. The faxon fluted gunner profile is a good balance of accuracy vs weight. I went through a few triggers milspec or upgraded triggers before finding one I liked, the palmetto drop in non adjustable was $80 on sale and is significantly better than any of the cheaper options I tried. I also thought a magpul stock was worth the upgrade, it rattles less and is easier to shoot off bags
Forget the 204 and get a 20 practical. When we had the shortage there was no 204 brass or ammo for years. You will also either lose or destroy a lot of brass with an AR. I had a 204 woa upper, trust me. Also you have to modify pmags or get metal mags to feed 204.
If i got another woa upper I would get the mlok handguard not the varmint one.
I recommend seekins lower parts kit and trigger tech trigger. The triggers are good as a Timney in my bolt gun. Magpul PRS or prs lite stock.
However, if you are a bolt guy, ARs will always suck. I am a bolt guy. I sold off the 204 upper. Shot good, I just don't like ARs. I have a lighter weight one i built for coyote calling too. I plan to fire what i have reloaded, then repurpose the brass to my 223 ai bolt gun. Rob the expensive Tract scope off it and put a cheap athlon on it. Use factory ammo going forward, and likely never fire it again until the civil war starts. Only good thing about ARs is mine are built on Lets go Brandon \ FJB lowers.
If i got another woa upper I would get the mlok handguard not the varmint one.
I recommend seekins lower parts kit and trigger tech trigger. The triggers are good as a Timney in my bolt gun. Magpul PRS or prs lite stock.
However, if you are a bolt guy, ARs will always suck. I am a bolt guy. I sold off the 204 upper. Shot good, I just don't like ARs. I have a lighter weight one i built for coyote calling too. I plan to fire what i have reloaded, then repurpose the brass to my 223 ai bolt gun. Rob the expensive Tract scope off it and put a cheap athlon on it. Use factory ammo going forward, and likely never fire it again until the civil war starts. Only good thing about ARs is mine are built on Lets go Brandon \ FJB lowers.
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Clam shells won't break the pin. Reaction rods that hold solely using the barrel extension will
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
Been there, done that.
I've built 8-10 AR 15s and AR 10s for myself and friends ranging from doing everything from scratch to buying the rifle and then customizing it to my liking. They range from 223 Wilde, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 CM, and 7.62 X 51. These guns are not built for show. The 223s are truck and boat guns plus beaver and armadillo control. The larger calibers are for regular hunting with daytime optics at ranges out to 600 or nighttime depredation hunting with thermal at ranges to 450 yards. Some have higher end parts and some I just built as reasonably as I could. All of them have shot very well with proper load development. All of them will shoot under MOA now. The 1st 223s I built with cheaper barrels were 1.5-1.75 moa guns. I upgraded barrels on those. 5 of these rifles will shoot in the .3-.4 range doing 4 or 5 shot slow fire groups with my hand loads. A couple of them did take quite a bit of time and effort to find the right combination. I think this is where buying a higher grade barrel pays dividends. They are less finicky and tend to be a lot more accurate over a broad range of loads.
I know little to nothing about 20 caliber builds and these guys have already given a lot of advice on that. So I will just share some of the parts or accessories that have worked for me and several of my friends.
One of my favorite stocks is the Magpul ACS-L. I just like the cheekweld I get with them. They have a tension leaver that locks the stock down and eliminates rattle. I'll add a Limbsaver pad to the stock because I don't like the hard rubber pads. They tend to slide easily when you lean the rifle up in a stand or corner.
As far as lowers and uppers I have used Del-ton, Wilson Combat, PSA, Aero Precision, and Anderson. Honestly I have never had A problem with any of them. Believe it or not the Del-ton runs the slickest out of the lot.
For the buffer tube I have really come to like the Aero Precision Enhanced buffer tube. The front is Notched to index on the buffer tube detent pin which keeps it from unscrewing if the castle nut vibrates loose.
I normally use Midwest Industries slim MLok handguards that are just long enough to cover the gas block. I hate armguards that are so long they almost reach the end of the barrel. But that's a whatever blows your dress up thing.
I like adjustable gas blocks. They help you tune ejection and bolt speed and in my opinion help smooth out the recoil impulse. Especially when used with an appropriate weight buffer. I prefer the Superlative Arms gas block. It's simple, easy to adjust and it works.
Use a good barrel. It's money well spent. Most of my builds are Grendel's and I prefer Alexander Arms 9 twist 20" barrels for those. From the sound of it WOA is the way to go for 20 caliber. I've always used anti seize on the barrel extension/upper. It can be a little messy but it works. I do prefer to have the bolt properly headspaced to the barrel by the barrel manufacturer if possible. If it isn't I'll use the proper gauges to make sure headspace is in spec. I will also measure several fired cases to check for proper headspace.
Lastly, the Trigger. I do not skimp in this department. Most of my builds have Geisslee National Match triggers. i like two stage triggers and the NM is a good one. Even my beater builds have Geisslee's.
Otherwise, for the money the Larue 2 stage MB2S trigger is tough to beat. Triggertech also makes an excellent AR trigger. The Rock Rivers I have tried seem to me to have a little bit of creep. That can be improved on but for me I just like Geisslee best. Just make sure you catch them on sale.
I almost forgot. Charging handles. I have started using either Raptor ambidextrous handlles, Bravo company large extended or Seekins handles. They all work well.
Grips. I prefer the Sierra Precision. The Magpul Miad isn't bad. I also like the looks of the Larue A peg
I know little to nothing about 20 caliber builds and these guys have already given a lot of advice on that. So I will just share some of the parts or accessories that have worked for me and several of my friends.
One of my favorite stocks is the Magpul ACS-L. I just like the cheekweld I get with them. They have a tension leaver that locks the stock down and eliminates rattle. I'll add a Limbsaver pad to the stock because I don't like the hard rubber pads. They tend to slide easily when you lean the rifle up in a stand or corner.
As far as lowers and uppers I have used Del-ton, Wilson Combat, PSA, Aero Precision, and Anderson. Honestly I have never had A problem with any of them. Believe it or not the Del-ton runs the slickest out of the lot.
For the buffer tube I have really come to like the Aero Precision Enhanced buffer tube. The front is Notched to index on the buffer tube detent pin which keeps it from unscrewing if the castle nut vibrates loose.
I normally use Midwest Industries slim MLok handguards that are just long enough to cover the gas block. I hate armguards that are so long they almost reach the end of the barrel. But that's a whatever blows your dress up thing.
I like adjustable gas blocks. They help you tune ejection and bolt speed and in my opinion help smooth out the recoil impulse. Especially when used with an appropriate weight buffer. I prefer the Superlative Arms gas block. It's simple, easy to adjust and it works.
Use a good barrel. It's money well spent. Most of my builds are Grendel's and I prefer Alexander Arms 9 twist 20" barrels for those. From the sound of it WOA is the way to go for 20 caliber. I've always used anti seize on the barrel extension/upper. It can be a little messy but it works. I do prefer to have the bolt properly headspaced to the barrel by the barrel manufacturer if possible. If it isn't I'll use the proper gauges to make sure headspace is in spec. I will also measure several fired cases to check for proper headspace.
Lastly, the Trigger. I do not skimp in this department. Most of my builds have Geisslee National Match triggers. i like two stage triggers and the NM is a good one. Even my beater builds have Geisslee's.
Otherwise, for the money the Larue 2 stage MB2S trigger is tough to beat. Triggertech also makes an excellent AR trigger. The Rock Rivers I have tried seem to me to have a little bit of creep. That can be improved on but for me I just like Geisslee best. Just make sure you catch them on sale.
I almost forgot. Charging handles. I have started using either Raptor ambidextrous handlles, Bravo company large extended or Seekins handles. They all work well.
Grips. I prefer the Sierra Precision. The Magpul Miad isn't bad. I also like the looks of the Larue A peg
Good point. In my post I should have said you need to secure the receiver and the extension/lugs as one unit. This is what the midwest URR tool & similar tools do.
All the springs need lube.
That’s why I use a MI URR as it locates the barrel extension and the upper receiver together
Any preference on type?
I love love love my bolt guns but ar’s are handy as truck guns and quick n dirty pew pew’n
Here’s my recent 22 ARC build.
I really like putting together AR’s, big boy legos!
Lol!
I just run quality springs in quality extensions nice n wet.
green sprinco’s as everything I run is rifle or A5 extensions.
Cheap extensions are often the cause of loud springs because of rough bore or no coatings.
I haven’t ever had an issue with that formula.
The flat wire and woven are nice if you feel the need for them.
Sorry, I meant do you have a preference on the lubricant. Thanks.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
It really doesn't make much difference.
I'm currently using Aeroshell 8 or 9. Breakfree works good also.
FYI. I go thru ~ 10K rounds a year. I clean and relube the buffer tube occasionally when I have nothing else to do - maybe 2-3 years?
I guess that’s were I was going with that question, oil or grease?
Any decent lube.
Midway sent me a bottle of the Lucas gun lube it seems like a good product.
Exactly
Definitely oil on the extension and bolt
Maybe grease on trigger but I just use oil.
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