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AR build help

I guess that’s were I was going with that question, oil or grease?
Ah, Grease for the action spring/buffer tube. But, breakfree works fine. So would any grease or medium/heavy oil.
Come to think about it, next time I may use my 4 year supply [i.e., 1 qt] of Mobile One.
I've been using Areoshell 8/9 only because it was a close replacement to the grease Geissele provided for their trigger.
Can you imagine how many lifetimes of grease there is in one of the tubes of grease when used only for a trigger?
 
Ah, Grease for the action spring/buffer tube. But, breakfree works fine. So would any grease or medium/heavy oil.
Come to think about it, next time I may use my 4 year supply [i.e., 1 qt] of Mobile One.
I've been using Areoshell 8/9 only because it was a close replacement to the grease Geissele provided for their trigger.
Can you imagine how many lifetimes of grease there is in one of the tubes of grease when used only for a trigger?
The lil tube you get with a SSA-E trigger would last me a lifetime.

Another grease I like is slide glide.
 
Any preference on type?
Wasn't intended for me but I've grown to like Geisslee Go Juice, Geisslee 0000 grease, and Slip 2000 EWL. None of these are cheap.
The Go Juice tends to work its way into little cracks and creases very well. it migrates. It is a very light weight lubricant with some staying power. I use it on trigger assemblies.
0000 grease stays where you put it like bolt lugs, buffer springs and is very light weight.
Slip 2K EWL I believe was developed for full auto type weapons and machine guns. I like it because it's thick enough to stay where you put it and it doesn't wear or burn off. I like it on my Beretta shotgun raceways, bolts, and bolt lugs, ,AR BCGs, buffer springs, and bolt lugs.
None of these lubricants have a bad smell. Or much smell at all for that matter.
 
Wasn't intended for me but I've grown to like Geisslee Go Juice, Geisslee 0000 grease, and Slip 2000 EWL. None of these are cheap.
The Go Juice tends to work its way into little cracks and creases very well. it migrates. It is a very light weight lubricant with some staying power. I use it on trigger assemblies.
0000 grease stays where you put it like bolt lugs, buffer springs and is very light weight.
Slip 2K EWL I believe was developed for full auto type weapons and machine guns. I like it because it's thick enough to stay where you put it and it doesn't wear or burn off. I like it on my Beretta shotgun raceways, bolts, and bolt lugs, ,AR BCGs, buffer springs, and bolt lugs.
None of these lubricants have a bad smell. Or much smell at all for that matter.
Hey Thanks .
I believe I have the Slip ewl on hand.
 
Keeping a "light" rifle, I think your 20" barrel can work fine WITH A BRAKE, though if you are willing to lug around a few more ounces, I'd go 24". It will make a huge difference in recoil and keeping a nice sight picture - getting another 120 fps +/- is an added bonus. I've tried lots of different triggers for varmint hunting and the best recommendation I can make is to go with one which will go down to 3 pounds, preferably 2 1/2, especially if it is a single stage trigger. Going lower than that can be problematic. I'd get a drop-in like the "GOLD" trigger or of similar modular design. I have had the Geissele triggers and have replace them with the lighter pull models - with great improvement. Pick a good barrel. Hart makes great .20 Cal barrels, though there are a lot of others like Krieger, etc. Try to get a stock with an adjustable cheek piece so you can get a good hold with proper eye alignment with the scope. Rather than use grease or oil in the spring tube, I use a swab to coat the inside of the tube with Moly powder. It doesn't create the "drag" that lubricants can. If you opt to buy an upper, the White Oak is a great setup as many others noted. That (ordered with a brake) a decent stock and trigger will get you on the right path to happiness. For a mainspring, if you plan on shooting a lot of 32 grain bullets, I'd opt for a Wolff "reduced power" mainspring to ensure good cycling without short-stroking. If you reload, I'd strongly consider the .20 Practical route. If you want to step it up a notch, buy a Sinclaire raceway lapping tool to square the front of the upper receiver where the barrel makes contact. It also trues the raceway for the bolt carrier at the same time. All you need is a drill and some lapping compound (which I believe comes with it) to do it. Takes the "bugs" out of most upper receivers. Barrel twist is a subject of much debate, but depends on the manufacturer. Hart 1-12" tubes are what I use on my 20P's, though some folks can't get stabilized 39 and 40 gran bullets with them from other makes. Go 1-11" if you want to eliminate doubts. when you twist the upper and lower actions in your hands, if there is any perceived sloppiness between the upper and lower, that will hurt your accuracy - get a device to put tension between the upper and lower to eliminate it - or bed the lower to the upper after researching how to do so. There are little $5.00 plastic jobs that actually work O.K. - better than nothing for sure. I'd get "quick-release" pins to easily separate your upper and lower completely for easy cleaning and maintenance. Have fun with your new project!
 
Check out the Luth-AR series of butt stocks. I like the -1 as it sits in the rear bag when I want to shoot gophers off my portable bench. Also adjustable for length of pull and you can set it up with an adjustable cheek piece as well or just use it without.

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