AR build help

[wer0206]

Aero Precision matched upper and lower. Convert to side charging. Kreiger or Bartlien barrel. Whatever weight and length you want. Magpul fixed buttstock. Tigger Tech or Timney trigger. clamp on gas block Non adjustable. Blue lock tite for barrel extention into upper receiver.
Find ammo that gun likes! Go have fun with it!
Also have front of upper receiver lapped square before putting on barrel

+1 on this but I'd go with green 620 loctite for the barrel extension....at least that's what the Criterion guys use when building precision AR-15 uppers.

See here for their steps to assemble a precision AR-15 upper:

• First lap the end of a BCM upper receiver (or similar quality upper receiver)
• Heat end of upper receiver to open it up if needed
• Spread green loctite on the base of barrel extension then slide it onto upper receiver
• Apply anti seize grease to barrel nut threads and shoulder contact points, thread on barrel nut while upper is still warm (once cool torque nut to ~40 ft-lbs 3 times then leave it on the 4th
• Re: the materials of certain parts, use a raw stainless steel gas tube ($16) (for more flexibility only use raw stainless steel non nitrided gas tubes), steel barrel nut ($9), and badger ordinance TDX steel gas block (use steel barrel nut, gas tube, and gas block to keep all materials the same as the barrel)
• Pin gas tube to gas block and to install the block use a tiny amount of rocksett (or high temp blue loctite 246 thread locker) on gas block set screws only snug tightened (20-30 in-lbs). Make sure the gas tube doesn't have any tension on it and has a little "wiggle" (see above video for details).
• To install muzzle device that will be used as a suppressor mount, use rocksett or blue loctite 246 and alignment rods for installation (make sure to degrease any screws or threads where threadlocker will be applied) then torque down to no more than 20 ft-lbs. If installing a muzzle device that won't be used as a suppressor mount you can apply a little grease to the threads and simply hand tighten it (similar to how bench rest shooters install muzzle breaks).

 

[jwv2001]

I am looking for some help in my first AR build
I am a bolt guy for the most part. At one time I had a Remington R15 chambered in 204. I just never got used to it and didn't like the way it shot. It always seemed to jump around when I shot it, so couldn't stay on target when making a follow up shot. The trigger was not great but was serviceable after a good trigger job. Accuracy was fair at best. And this may sound weird but every time I shot it I could hear like a compressing spring sound that drove me nuts so I ended up sending it down the road.
With all that said I would like to try to build a good AR style varmint rifle. I would like it chambered in 204 and I want it to function smoothly to help with the muzzle jump. I do a lot of walking so I am thinking a 20 inch barrel preferably in stainless to keep the weight under control.. I am hoping you guys could give me some recommendations on what to purchase for parts. And any tips or tricks you have would be greatly appreciated. I have little to no experience with ARs so please bear with me if I ask stupid questions.
One other thing to mention is I own an APF chambered in 300 blackout, it is the pistol style with the arm strap so I could use that lower if you would recommend it.
Thanks in advance everyone.

I assume you are mechanically inclined, wanting to build an AR from scratch. What I would advise, if you really want a 20 caliber, is to go with the 20 Practical. Reason being, availability of brass. .223 necked to 20 caliber.
I know exactly what you're talking about, the "boing boing" when shooting. That can be easily solved with a "stealth" buffer. H2 or H3. I fixed the trigger by using an aftermarket about 24 oz.
Good Luck getting what you want.

Stealth™ Recoil Spring - SRS™- AR15 GEN4

The Stealth Recoil Spring™ SRS™ GEN4 is a self-contained multi-stage drop-in replacement for your standard buffer and spring. The SRS™ is designed to keep the buffer spring from rubbing against the inner wall of the buffer tube providing smooth, quiet operation and the second stage helps reduce...

armaspec.com

 

[10XSHOOTER]

+1 on this but I'd go with green 620 loctite for the barrel extension....at least that's what the Criterion guys use when building precision AR-15 uppers.

See here for their steps to assemble a precision AR-15 upper:

• First lap the end of a BCM upper receiver (or similar quality upper receiver)
• Heat end of upper receiver to open it up if needed
• Spread green loctite on the base of barrel extension then slide it onto upper receiver
• Apply anti seize grease to barrel nut threads and shoulder contact points, thread on barrel nut while upper is still warm (once cool torque nut to ~40 ft-lbs 3 times then leave it on the 4th
• Re: the materials of certain parts, use a raw stainless steel gas tube ($16) (for more flexibility only use raw stainless steel non nitrided gas tubes), steel barrel nut ($9), and badger ordinance TDX steel gas block (use steel barrel nut, gas tube, and gas block to keep all materials the same as the barrel)
• Pin gas tube to gas block and to install the block use a tiny amount of rocksett (or high temp blue loctite 246 thread locker) on gas block set screws only snug tightened (20-30 in-lbs). Make sure the gas tube doesn't have any tension on it and has a little "wiggle" (see above video for details).
• To install muzzle device that will be used as a suppressor mount, use rocksett or blue loctite 246 and alignment rods for installation (make sure to degrease any screws or threads where threadlocker will be applied) then torque down to no more than 20 ft-lbs. If installing a muzzle device that won't be used as a suppressor mount you can apply a little grease to the threads and simply hand tighten it (similar to how bench rest shooters install muzzle breaks).

Green loctite is bearing retainer. The barrel will not move in upper! But will take a lot of heat to get barrel out.. May warp upper!

 

[wer0206]

Green loctite is bearing retainer. The barrel will not move in upper! But will take a lot of heat to get barrel out.. May warp upper!

Hmm..good point!

 

[410smallbore]

Thanks everyone. I will take this all under advisement, It's a lot to digest but very helpful.

 

[spaniel]

Building an AR is fairly easy but there are pricy tools needed that you may only use once… Building a super accurate AR is best left to the pros… Once you have the gun you want, you can always tinker around with different parts such as trigger, etc to get it to your specifications.

What pricey tools are required? I can't think of a single one and I've built a dozen ARs. You need a castle nut wrench (cheap) and, ideally but not required, a vise block to hold the upper in a vise to tighten the barrel nut. Along with the wrench for whatever nut style you are using. No other dedicated tools are required.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

What pricey tools are required? I can't think of a single one and I've built a dozen ARs. You need a castle nut wrench (cheap) and, ideally but not required, a vise block to hold the upper in a vise to tighten the barrel nut. Along with the wrench for whatever nut style you are using. No other dedicated tools are required.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m4-stock-wrench/
This is the one expensive tool I had to buy to put a lower together.

 

[spaniel]

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m4-stock-wrench/
This is the one expensive tool I had to buy to put a lower together.

I have the same one; you're not kidding. I had to eat Ramen for a month. LOL.

 

[Rjh1971]

I am looking for some help in my first AR build
I am a bolt guy for the most part. At one time I had a Remington R15 chambered in 204. I just never got used to it and didn't like the way it shot. It always seemed to jump around when I shot it, so couldn't stay on target when making a follow up shot. The trigger was not great but was serviceable after a good trigger job. Accuracy was fair at best. And this may sound weird but every time I shot it I could hear like a compressing spring sound that drove me nuts so I ended up sending it down the road.
With all that said I would like to try to build a good AR style varmint rifle. I would like it chambered in 204 and I want it to function smoothly to help with the muzzle jump. I do a lot of walking so I am thinking a 20 inch barrel preferably in stainless to keep the weight under control.. I am hoping you guys could give me some recommendations on what to purchase for parts. And any tips or tricks you have would be greatly appreciated. I have little to no experience with ARs so please bear with me if I ask stupid questions.
One other thing to mention is I own an APF chambered in 300 blackout, it is the pistol style with the arm strap so I could use that lower if you would recommend it.
Thanks in advance ever

I have a 16 inch 204 upper and a WOA 20 inch 20 practical upper. The 20P is one of my favorite wildcats to date. I run 40 grain BIB's at 3490 and 35 grain Berger's at 3650-3700. If you reload the 20P is a no brainer, especially if you wan to shoot 40's or want good brass options.
Get a JP captive spring and there is no "boing" sound, I can't stand the sound of the spring, and use the JP captive springs in all of mine. As far as triggers, I mainly use 2 stage Trigger tech diamonds now, but still have Geissele DMR in my large frame AR. They are both really good. In my bolt guns I use 2 stage bix n andy's or trigger techs and I don't find myself wishing I was behind my bolt gun when using my AR's.
The 20P has become one of my all time favorites for hunting coyotes and with a 40 grain BIB it is very effective. I have or had in the past: 17 rem, 17-204, 204 ruger, .221 fireball, 223, 22-250, 22 creed, 6x45, 6x6.8, 6 arc, 6 creed, 243 win, 6.5 creed, 6.8 spc, .308 win, 300 wm, but I usually grab my practical. If it is windy or 300 yard+ shots, I will grab my 6 creed, but if it is not, I grab my 20 practical. Mike Milli at Dtech who is just north of you in Bemidji, MN is also a great option and he does very nice work. Send me a message if you have any questions, Randy.

 

[jelenko]

I just gotta say.
To quiet down the spring, as mentioned, just use some grease - or even just breakfree.
I run a Tubb flatwire spring and there is no sound from the spring.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I just gotta say.
To quiet down the spring, as mentioned, just use some grease - or even just breakfree.
I run a Tubb flatwire spring and there is no sound from the spring.

I assume the heavier buffers are supposed to take care of this also?

 

[10XSHOOTER]

Hmm..good point!

I normally just use Blue loctite for the barrel extention. Or if full auto use high temp Red.

 

[karrarararararar]

Larue MBT is probably the best value when it comes to triggers

 

[wer0206]

What pricey tools are required? I can't think of a single one and I've built a dozen ARs. You need a castle nut wrench (cheap) and, ideally but not required, a vise block to hold the upper in a vise to tighten the barrel nut. Along with the wrench for whatever nut style you are using. No other dedicated tools are required.

When torquing the barrel nut you need to internally secure the upper receiver otherwise you can snap the indexing pin. You can do this with the midwest industries upper receiver rod or similar tool.

 

[wer0206]

I normally just use Blue loctite for the barrel extention. Or if full auto use high temp Red.

SOTAR (and the criterion guys) both recommend using green loctite on the barrel extension…but to each their own. Seems like either one would work fine.

 

[jelenko]

I assume the heavier buffers are supposed to take care of this also?

Not sure. I've always assumed the noise from the spring comes from it's sliding on the buffer tube as it compresses and decompresses. The weight of the buffer wouldn't affect that.

 

[Walt Krafft]

It is the sliding. Grease it and move on.

 

[Rocketvapor]

With a TRUE thermal fit, not a tap it in the last 1/4" fit, or a wet glue in, the barrel to extension fit will hold the extension tight.
Might take a little effort to take the barrel out though.

 

[wer0206]

It is the sliding. Grease it and move on.

This ^^^. Also changing to a braided or other type of spring alone can significantly reduce the twangy sound. I use a Super 42 spring and even without lube it's pretty quiet. I add some anyway just as a protectant.

 

[SKWERLZ]

When torquing the barrel nut you need to internally secure the upper receiver otherwise you can snap the indexing pin. You can do this with the midwest industries upper receiver rod or similar tool.

The MI URR is awesome