Can anyone help me figure out why this trigger has no first stage stop before tripping it in second stage.It wont repeat the weight setting either.I have one in another gun and it works great.Can anybody help me?
ar 15 jewell trigger problem
- Thread starter jonbearman
- Start date
I love jewell triggers. A must on my bolt actions and have been shooting them for years. I had a AR once that i no longer have and had 1 installed on it. To be honest i did not like it and had problems with it. The next AR i have i am either going with a Timney or a Geissel. Hey, Anyone out their remember when he made them for the 10-22s. I do like them.
Klong
Gold $$ Contributor
jonbearman, Do you have the installation and adjustment instructions?
There are 4 basic adjustments to this trigger.
1> Overtravel- Since you did not indicate that the hammer tripping or not tipping was a problem we will skip this one.
2> First stage pull - this is adjusted by the long spring that sticks up when looking down in the the trigger and is adjusted by placement of the spring leg in the notches. More forward for less first stage and further back in the notches for more first stage weight of pull.
3> second stage - weight is adjusted by the larger allen screw (toward the rear of the trigger). Turn the allen screw in (clockwise) to increase the second stage weight. You may need to adjust more weight into the second stage.
4>sear adjustment - This is accomplished by the small allen screw, toward the front of the trigger. Adjust by turning counter-clockwise to increase second stage sear engagement. This could be where your problem is and the allen screw is too far in the clockwise position and thus pull through the second stage. You need to turn this screw counter-clockwise to get more second stage adjustment.
Jewell makes a good trigger, but it is not a drop in trigger and today there are better triggers on the market. The inconsistancy of the trigger can be improved by removing the side to side play. This can be done by placing a spacer on each side of the trigger. Take your trigger pin and go to the local hardware or Lowes type store and buy a package of small washers that will barely allow the trigger pin to go through the hole. Install one on the outside of both sides of the trigger when installing the trigger back in the lower. (you may have to reduce the thickness of the washer to make this work) This installation can be a little tricky to get done with only two hands, but it can be done. If you have the tools you can do all the measurements to calculate the washer thickness needed to fill the remaining space in the lower trigger housing or you can just install by trial and error. The washer in the bag will be varying thicknesses.
Good luck!
There are 4 basic adjustments to this trigger.
1> Overtravel- Since you did not indicate that the hammer tripping or not tipping was a problem we will skip this one.
2> First stage pull - this is adjusted by the long spring that sticks up when looking down in the the trigger and is adjusted by placement of the spring leg in the notches. More forward for less first stage and further back in the notches for more first stage weight of pull.
3> second stage - weight is adjusted by the larger allen screw (toward the rear of the trigger). Turn the allen screw in (clockwise) to increase the second stage weight. You may need to adjust more weight into the second stage.
4>sear adjustment - This is accomplished by the small allen screw, toward the front of the trigger. Adjust by turning counter-clockwise to increase second stage sear engagement. This could be where your problem is and the allen screw is too far in the clockwise position and thus pull through the second stage. You need to turn this screw counter-clockwise to get more second stage adjustment.
Jewell makes a good trigger, but it is not a drop in trigger and today there are better triggers on the market. The inconsistancy of the trigger can be improved by removing the side to side play. This can be done by placing a spacer on each side of the trigger. Take your trigger pin and go to the local hardware or Lowes type store and buy a package of small washers that will barely allow the trigger pin to go through the hole. Install one on the outside of both sides of the trigger when installing the trigger back in the lower. (you may have to reduce the thickness of the washer to make this work) This installation can be a little tricky to get done with only two hands, but it can be done. If you have the tools you can do all the measurements to calculate the washer thickness needed to fill the remaining space in the lower trigger housing or you can just install by trial and error. The washer in the bag will be varying thicknesses.
Good luck!
My first trigger has a definite 1st stage and you can feel the sear engagement on the second.If you really feel that this cant be achieved let me know.I have tried overadjusting the sear and evrything inbetween.I am tearing my hair out.I bought it from great scott.I am shy about calling him and complaining to him.Is he easy going? I wish I knew before I call him on monday.
Called jewell on monday morning and tommy picked up the phone and says I will have it back by early next week.They couldnt have been nicer.I will keep anyone interested apprised of the situation. Jon T Lennon
jonbearman said:
I had installed a two stage Jewell trigger assm. on my AR15 that I use for XTC matches. The first stage felt "gritty" during the take up. Called Tommy, and they replaced the hammer free of charge within two days. I felt that they wanted to do what ever it takes to keep me as a satisfied customer.
After installing the new hammer, the grittiness went away. I was well pleased with Jewell's response on this matter.
Also, as snoog said , there isn't a "stop" between stages. You will feel the trigger pull change when it gets to the second stage, and then gently pull the trigger through.
Bill
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