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AR 10 6.5 creedmoor shooters

It’s not rocket science. I’ve built maybe a dozen. Yes there are a couple generations of them. First off forget the Armalite pattern. Those have the slanted rear reciever (not rounded like the aero Dpms LR308 version). Just stick with the Aero which is based on the Dpms LR308 high version. 99% of everything out there uses this pattern. It’s actually quite simple if you know what pattern you’re building. I don’t know if any manufacturer currently making the Dpms Gen 1 low profile picatanni reciever or handguard. As I said 99% of everything out there is based on the Aero /DPMS LR308 high variation. Stick with that and you don’t have any problem. Aero Precision has basically set the new standard. Also as stated above . Use an adjustable gas block if you plan on running 6.5 creedmoor . I’ve used standard rifle buffers and springs with JP or SLR adjustable
gas blocks and literally never had an issue. That being said I much prefer the SLR Sentry series detent adjustable gas blocks. If you enjoy putting your own rifles together, go for it.
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I would use the following:
6.5 Creedmoor, if AR10
Aero Precision enhanced upper
Aero handguard
A threaded Krieger or Proof barrel (carbon wrapped if you want less weight)
Eric Cortina tuner brake
Adjustable gas block if you are going to shoot suppressed
JP or Wilson high pressure bolt and carrier group

One (not mine) for sale in classifieds right now and you can save on sales tax as well.
thanks a bunch! lots of intel here.
 
if you were going to build a 6mm AR and make it a high end accurate rifle, what you build, generally? and cartridge? Seems like you have some good knowledge/experience!
If you're talking 6mmHagar, 6mmAR, 6mmARC, etc. those are all done on AR15s. If you're wanting a .308 bolt face and 6mm I'd do .243Win. Reason is same why I shoot a .260 can make brass out of any .308 family case and more importantly can use LC brass. You'd need to turn necks but that is why I use for my .260 brass and it lasts longer than commercial. Doesn't affect accuracy, FWIW I use LC brass in my .223 palma rifle and the .280 Remington.
 
I'll add some of my recent experience.

I built a DPMS patterned spacegun chambered in 260 with a 26" barrel with rifle length gas. I used a Superlative arms gas block and while function was great, I was having lots of trouble with ejector swipes on my brass with even moderate loads. I had thought I had a H3 buffer in it, but upon disassembly I actually was using a H1 buffer. I swapped in two tungsten weights to bring it up to H3 weight and was able to get much more reasonable velocities without any swipes.
 
I'll add some of my recent experience.

I built a DPMS patterned spacegun chambered in 260 with a 26" barrel with rifle length gas. I used a Superlative arms gas block and while function was great, I was having lots of trouble with ejector swipes on my brass with even moderate loads. I had thought I had a H3 buffer in it, but upon disassembly I actually was using a H1 buffer. I swapped in two tungsten weights to bring it up to H3 weight and was able to get much more reasonable velocities without any swipes.
Where did you get the weights?
 
If you decide to build one, understand that they are long and heavy, and you may or may not be able to load as hot as you would for a bolt gun.

I have a 24" 6.5 Creedmoor built with a custom McGowen barrel (rifle length gas), Superlative arms gas block, and am A2 stock and buffer. The receivers are stock DPMS. The small (high-pressure) firing pin is a necessity to avoid primer cratering. Overall it runs well and is quite accurate for a semi auto.

If you have a good understanding of troubleshooting an AR pattern rifle, building one is reasonable, otherwise just get a complete one like a Seekins or JP. They aren't cheap either way.
 

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