Anyone with reloading tips/tricks?

[Ledd Slinger]

Not sure if it has been mentioned yet as I don't have enough time to read all the replies. So here it goes...

One way to always ensure an electronic scale is properly calibrated and zeroed when loading a lot of ammo is to first calibrate your scale, then place your powder tray on the scale and tare it so the scale reads zero with the tray on it. Then remove the powder tray from the scale and write the negative weight reading down and stick it in front of your scale. Now as you're charging cases you can look at your scale reading every time you pick up the tray to place powder in a case. If the reading with the tray removed matches what you wrote down, you can rest assured that it is still properly calibrated. If it is too far off, then re-calibration is needed.

 

[scpaul]

I never load less than a 50% density just incase my powder measure should clog and give me a double charge on the next case. Catshooter, Eric, I wasn't trying to be smart re: the case holder. I haven't seen it happen or know anyone that it happened to, I was just repeating the warning I read in a magazine (not certain but I think it was "Handloader"). As long ago as I read the article (a year ago or more) I can't even be sure what they said caused it but with my luck I have to abide by Murphy's Law, I'm lucky like that. I keep a spare set of the holders on hand just like depriming pins. Ya'll have a good one, Paul (scpaul) :-X

 

[cowboysnavy]

Use a shellholder in an inertia bullet puller instead of the crummy o-ring when having to pull more than a bullet or two. It really speeds things up.

 

[bobm]

My uncle passed this tip to me in the early 70's

A simple and cheap way to measure and set your COAL is to take a fired case and full length size it. Take a small flat file or Dremel cutter wheel and cut a slot on both sides of the center neck, 180 degrees apart, down below the shoulder. Remove all burrs inside and out. The resulting "collet" will spring inwards with enough force to tightly hold a bullet. Seat a bullet in by hand about an eighth of an inch. Remove the firing pin, chamber this "tool" and close the bolt. The leade on the lands will push the bullet into the case. Carefully open the bolt and withdraw the tool.

With calipers measure and write down the overall length. Repeat this process several times to get a repeatable number. This is the COAL when actually touching the leade of the rifling. I adjust my seating dies to seat a bullet .010-.012 less than the recorded number at touch.

There are also a few commercial tools available that accomplish the same thing.

 

[M14AMU]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

+100 ;D

 

[DeltaBravo]

I have four:

1. Always seat the bullet after charging the case
2. Always charge the case before seating the bullet
3. When loading at the range, stay focused on the task at hand, do not get distracted - this will help prevent 1 and 2 above
4. Always seat a primer in your case before charging with powder

If you follow these tips, I can assure you of significantly reduced aggravation!

Dennis

 

[CatShooter]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

Hold up!!! ;D

Not if you do it properly. I F/L size every time but I only .002" at most. I have never had a case separate, I retire my brass due to loose primer pockets.

 

[CatShooter]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

Hold up!!! ;D

Not if you do it properly. I F/L size every time but I only .002" at most. I have never had a case separate, I retire my brass due to loose primer pockets.

Ahhhh, but most people don't... most people can't. They do not have suitable dies, or the ability to measure shoulder position.

I bought a $1,200 rifle for $500, cuz the heads were coming off the cases - the owner FL sized his cases with off the rack RCBS FL dies, cuz he read he should FL size for best accuracy.

I neck size and it is very accurate... cases last forever.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

Hold up!!! ;D

Not if you do it properly. I F/L size every time but I only .002" at most. I have never had a case separate, I retire my brass due to loose primer pockets.

Ahhhh, but most people don't... most people can't. They do not have suitable dies, or the ability to measure shoulder position.

I bought a $1,200 rifle for $500, cuz the heads were coming off the cases - the owner FL sized his cases with off the rack RCBS FL dies, cuz he read he should FL size for best accuracy.

I neck size and it is very accurate... cases last forever.

Well, anything done improperly is not proper!

 

[Brians356]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

Hold up!!! ;D

Not if you do it properly. I F/L size every time but I only .002" at most. I have never had a case separate, I retire my brass due to loose primer pockets.

I agree with Erik. If I use a Redding body die to bump a shoulder .002", all it does to the body, including near the head, is burnish the surface. No discernible change in diameter using a quality micrometer. So, how could that induce head separation even if I did it 100 times to a case?

 

[CatShooter]

Tips? Always Full Length size and you'll be head and shoulders above the crowd.

Always Full Length size and eventually your case heads will separate from your bodies.

Hold up!!! ;D

Not if you do it properly. I F/L size every time but I only .002" at most. I have never had a case separate, I retire my brass due to loose primer pockets.

I agree with Erik. If I use a Redding body die to bump a shoulder .002", all it does to the body, including near the head, is burnish the surface. No discernible change in diameter using a quality micrometer. So, how could that induce head separation even if I did it 100 times to a case?

Cuz most shooters do not have body dies - they have over the counter FL dies that are not kind to cases.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

Cuz most shooters do not have body dies - they have over the counter FL dies that are not kind to cases.

Most shooters don't have neck-turning equipment or tight-necked chambers, either, but competitive shooters at the highest levels do -- just like they/we FL size with a properly-fitting die after every firing. Case life isn't compromised in the least by full-length sizing, done properly.

This is accurateshooter.com, not mostshooters.com.

 

[bobm]

Quote from above: "They do not have suitable dies, or the ability to measure shoulder position."

Which leads to yet another reloading tip/ trick.

I use a home made tool to determine shoulder position relative to a known length value. In this case a .308 series 1.630 go head space gage. The tool is precision seamless 316 SS tubing with an ID of .375. This diameter falls close enough to the middle of the standard 20 degree shoulder angle for measuring purposes. A visible groove at one end keeps it the same direction for each measurement. I set the caliper dial to read zero on the head space gage.

The four times fired 7-08 case measures +.002 more than the 1.630 gage. It was fired in a standard M700 factory chamber. A body die can easily be adjusted to push it back to fit in some of my tighter match chambers.

 

[Erik Cortina]

This is accurateshooter.com, not mostshooters.com.

This made me LOL. ;D

 

[Brians356]

This is accurateshooter.com, not mostshooters.com.

Is that the same Toby B. who was active on rec.guns 25 years ago? U.W.?

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

Still a Husky.

 

[rduckwor]

PAM No-Stick spray works as a case lube just fine.

 

[logger3006]

Next time your yard sale shopping and see a rock polisher pick it up it makes a good case cleaner.

 

[bobm]

You can measure case length, with or without primer in place, using a Lee decapper base with this set up.