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Anyone with reloading tips/tricks?

carmex lip balm (since its getting cold now) is almost as good a imperial die wax.
use painters tape often..label boxes, coffee cans of brass, re closing primer packages...
9mm/ 40 sw ammo blocks work well for the 556 family of rifle cartridges.
for those using corn cob media ( I still do occasionally) use mcguires car cleaner wax.. shiny and a light protective coating left on the brass.
cheers,
Doc
 
Thanks, Catshooter. I was'nt thinking about a case polisher. When I got started reloading not long ago, I read Tony Boyer's book to get oriented. Unless I missed it, he does'nt use a brass polisher, but simply uses 0000 steel wool to get the carbon off the neck, so that's what I do. I don't have a polisher. However, I think Tony may not know everything about reloading. Is there a shooting performance advantage to using a brass polisher?
 
Cassidy said:
Thanks, Catshooter. I was'nt thinking about a case polisher.

"Is there a shooting performance advantage to using a brass polisher?"

Silly person, EVERYBODY know that pretty ammunition shoots more accurately ;) ;) ;)

I don't think it is "important", I just like it clean and polished - just a pride thing.

There is one advantage - the shiny cases are much easier to find if you drop them in the grass ;)
 
spclark said:
#9: Use pieces of double-faced carpet tape to secure the foam. Otherwise a windy day'll cause you frustration when it tries to take the foam away.

3M ("Scotch") makes a household double-sided tape, looks like their regular tape, and in the clear plastic dispenser. Carpet tape is a bit much for some such applications.
 
Cassidy said:
martha, sorry... Erik. :) I don't understand why you dry brass. Does it adsorb surface moisture during cold or high humidity weather? If you don't dry it, what influence might it have. Would it help to keep desicants in the brass container to keep the moisture level low?

I dry brass after I clean it with STM.
 
I cut little paper shims that will slide under case head in shell holder to get more shoulder bump if one is too long instead of screwing the die down. Barlow
 
brians356 said:
3M ("Scotch") makes a household double-sided tape, looks like their regular tape, and in the clear plastic dispenser. Carpet tape is a bit much for some such applications.

Agreed, as I learned when I wanted to sell off some ammo boxes that had it in the lids. I tried the 3M stuff but it wouldn't stick to the polypropylene (white, thin) foam sheets I used several years ago so the carpet tape was next in line. Switched to the open-cell (green, white) urethane stuff you can get at Walmart or JoAnn's which DOES stick to the 3M tape & all is good now!
 
Lots of good tips here! My 2 cents if I may is on full-length and body dies. When using either one of these for the first time be sure to clean out all the rust preventative from the inside of the die with Gun Scrubber, Brake cleaner, ETC. Never apply case lube to the inside of the die! The first case you try to run through the die will push the lube to the shoulder area (where you never want lube ) and possibly result in a stuck case at worst , dented shoulder at best.
Use a once fired cartridge case lubed as you usually do . Run it slowly up into the die until you feel resistance, remove the case from the die re-lube and repeat until you can make a full pass through the die. Always clean out the die after use and recoat inside of die with Break free or a like product to prevent rust if putting it in "long term storage".
Take care,
Phil Hoham
Berger Bullet tech
 
barefooter56 said:
... be sure to clean out all the rust preventative from the inside of the die with Gun Scrubber, Brake cleaner, ETC.

I use Gun Scrubber a lot, but a less noxious cleaner I prefer for tasks like this is common lighter fluid.
 
I made a poor mans dampened granite surface plate to put my scales when in use. Went to the local kitchen countertop place and got an 18"x18"x1.25" piece of manufactured granite counter top, from the scrap bin for $0. Put a bunch of 1" sq silicone skid/scuff proof pads (rubby kadubbies) on bottom.
Works great, level and dampenend surface for my scales.


Rod
 
Nodak7mm said:
I made a poor mans dampened granite surface plate to put my scales when in use.
Works great, level and dampenend surface for my scales.

Is the dampened for anti-static effect?
 
get the Sinclair/Wilson deburring tool package which is used in an electric screwdriver. you'll definitely appreciate it after doing about 50 cases by hand. and while you're on the Brownells website, get one of their case spinners with the appropriate case holders.
 
brians356 said:
Nodak7mm said:
I made a poor mans dampened granite surface plate to put my scales when in use.
Works great, level and dampenend surface for my scales.

Is the dampened for anti-static effect?


Brian,


lol, thats my next step... grounding mat/bonding straps. I currently use dryer sheets and wipe things down before every use.


Using the rubby kadubbies to dampen vibrations.


Rod
 
old_dood said:
get the Sinclair/Wilson deburring tool package which is used in an electric screwdriver. you'll definitely appreciate it after doing about 50 cases by hand. and while you're on the Brownells website, get one of their case spinners with the appropriate case holders.

Or, get one of the Lee locking case holders (there are different sizes of course). The case holder and locking stud are separate, so (for 223) you need to purchase two items (two parts of their case trimmer - which actually works quite well):

http://leeprecision.com/cutter-lock-stud.html
http://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-223-rem.html

These will mount in any electric screwdriver - I bought a Black & Decker rechargeable from Walmart for < $15 and it works great:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Decker-2.4V-Direct-Plug-Screwdriver/10779759
 
Nodak7mm said:
brians356 said:
Nodak7mm said:
I made a poor mans dampened granite surface plate to put my scales when in use.
Works great, level and dampenend surface for my scales.

Is the dampened for anti-static effect?


Brian,

lol, thats my next step... grounding mat/bonding straps. I currently use dryer sheets and wipe things down before every use.

Using the rubby kadubbies to dampen vibrations.

Rod

Oh, not familiar with such a vibration damping setup, sorry. Not sure why that's critical unless your scale is awfully sensitive. Seems like static, and air currents, would be more critical. I'm learning a lot from this forum lately.
 
Nodak7mm said:
I made a poor mans dampened granite surface plate to put my scales when in use. Went to the local kitchen countertop place and got an 18"x18"x1.25" piece of manufactured granite counter top, from the scrap bin for $0. Put a bunch of 1" sq silicone skid/scuff proof pads (rubby kadubbies) on bottom.
Works great, level and dampenend surface for my scales.
I have my scales sitting on the base to an old LP turntable. The base's feet are jell cushioned and are adjustable so the base can be leveled.

Regards...
 
What type of scale would be so sensitive to vibrations? My old Ohaus 505 beam scale is sensitive to air currents and static, but if I bump the heavy shop table under it, the pointer doesn't swing and the zero doesn't change.
 
Electronic scales can be sensitive to vibration. They can lose calibration from just a fan running. I found out after two charge masters and a heated phone argument with the poor fellow in customer service..
 
logger3006 said:
Electronic scales can be sensitive to vibration. They can lose calibration from just a fan running. I found out after two charge masters and a heated phone argument with the poor fellow in customer service..

Speaking of turntable isolation, reminds me of an audiophile friend in the '80s who had a pistol-shaped device he fired with a "snap!" at his vinyl records on the turntable to discharge the static. I bet one would work on a balance beam scale, too. (Wouldn't want to zap an electronic, though.) I wonder if they still make that device?
 

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