AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Dan in Alaska can fix all primary extraction issues, he has completed 6 for me.
No one holds them (REM) accountable on this. 99.95 % of these faulty actions are toted around the deer woods by people who don't know any wiser ; )Nothing easier than touting "higher quality steel" with no other information.
As for the primary extraction issue, it is absolutely inexcusable and has long been an issue with 700's. There is absolutely no excuse for rifle to be designed with a primary extraction cam then built so it is not functional. WH
Agree, I do not feel there is anything deficient in the design- it's a matter of not maintaining tolerance in the receiver, bolt, or both. Simple as I see it- it's the length from the lug abutments on the receiver to the rear face, and the bolt lug to the handle. Get both of those correct so there's minimal play from bolt handle to receiver as shown in Gene's video and it worksThere is absolutely no excuse for rifle to be designed with a primary extraction cam then built so it is not functional.
they were laughing at you because you were not looking at the $10,000 rifles and shot guns.Walt,
Any ideas about correcting the extraction issue? I haven't been able to get my hands on one yet. I was in ME last week and stopped by LL Bean which has a sizeable gun department. They laughed when I asked if they had one.
So in your opinion is the best cure an aftermarket bolt or does that solve anything? Maybe it depends on who made it?Often the cam surface is located too far clockwise as well. In other words, there is more than one dimension screwed up. Either way, it's not according to the print. WH
A PTG bolt, or even a PTG both handle will do wonders for this. I'm at a loss as to why they changed the geometry on the handles. I recall a thread on this over on Sniper's Hide a few years back and Chad Dixon had some "off the record" (he's under NDI with Remington or something) comments but I can't find the thread. I recall something as to the bolt handles sub contractors that did the investment casting had to modify it to ensure their sloppy specs would not result in binding or something like that. Take all of this with a grain of salt as my memory ain't what it used to be.So in your opinion is the best cure an aftermarket bolt or does that solve anything? Maybe it depends on who made it?
Or the dog bedsthey were laughing at you because you were not looking at the $10,000 rifles and shot guns.
Thank you for the information. I appreciate it.A PTG bolt, or even a PTG both handle will do wonders for this. I'm at a loss as to why they changed the geometry on the handles. I recall a thread on this over on Sniper's Hide a few years back and Chad Dixon had some "off the record" (he's under NDI with Remington or something) comments but I can't find the thread. I recall something as to the bolt handles sub contractors that did the investment casting had to modify it to ensure their sloppy specs would not result in binding or something like that. Take all of this with a grain of salt as my memory ain't what it used to be.
A properly placed replacement handle can do wonders. A Holland’s has extra material in the cam area and can be hand fitted very tight and get all the extraction you can possibly get out of one. You can TIG up the cam on a factory style handle and do the same but that’s extra work over a Holland’s.So in your opinion is the best cure an aftermarket bolt or does that solve anything? Maybe it depends on who made it?
if it a new knob on a stock bolt, can you tig weld the arm to the bolt?I have fluted and installed knobs on a half dozen or so of the new bolts. Fit and finish looks quite good.
Paul
No, the factory braze would contaminate the attempted weld. You would have to remove the handle, remove all traces of brazing material and then TIG. After it is TIG ed you could braze again. I haven’t done that but some have. I believe LRI was doing it but I’m not sure if they still do.if it a new knob on a stock bolt, can you tig weld the arm to the bolt?
I don’t find that at all or at least on what I’ve done and certainly not with the Holland’s I’ve fitted. Now I do take the time to clean the whole action up with die stones deburring and smoothing everything up. If you’re getting a stiff bolt upon opening I’d be wondering if the closing cams and extraction cams are interfering.I find that setting the bolt for a ton of primary extraction is not what I like at all. It makes the bolt very stiff.