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Anyone have this problem?

I have mainly RCBS reloading equipment. I did purchase a Lee decapping die. I can not get the thing to turn for adjustments. I have two wrenches trying a heavy amount of pressure and it will not turn the adjustment nut at the top of the die.
 
Is the decapping pin not sticking out from the bottom of the die? I assume this is the universal decapping die. The top nut is not an adjuster, it's a collet that holds the sliding decapping rod/pin. Loosen it then slide the decapping rod down flush with the top nut, tighten really good, they sometimes slip when new.
 
As fast 14 says, the universal decapper will knock the primers out of any standard case as it is. The only adjustment you should need to make is to run it into your press far enough so the case fully enters the die.
 
With the Lee universal decapper about the only thing you have to be careful with is ensuring the brass you are depriming is all of the way into the shell holder and the neck is lined up with the decapping stem. If the brass is not all of the way in, the die opening is large enough to allow a small case to slip beside the decapping pin and die side wall. I did this on Monday with a 17 Remington brass. Wasn't quite lined up and going too fast, that tiny neck slid between the decapping pin and die body and bent the he!! out of the pin and ruined a case...needless to say my order from Lee is on the way.......trying to re-use the decapping stem after an attempt at straightening it ruined case # 2.
 
Were there instructions included with the die?

Yes, all that it had was a pic showing one wrench on the top nut and another wrench on the die. Then it shows 2 arrows one for the top wrench then another arrow for the other wrench going the opposite direction. I tried a 223 case, I ran the die into the press until it touched the shell holder with the handle in the up position. I put a case in the shell holder and the pin doesn't touch the primer. The decapping pin is too far up inside the die body.
 
Yes, all that it had was a pic showing one wrench on the top nut and another wrench on the die. Then it shows 2 arrows one for the top wrench then another arrow for the other wrench going the opposite direction. I tried a 223 case, I ran the die into the press until it touched the shell holder with the handle in the up position. I put a case in the shell holder and the pin doesn't touch the primer. The decapping pin is too far up inside the die body.
Pin should be level with the top of the nut that holds it in place..
 
Yes, all that it had was a pic showing one wrench on the top nut and another wrench on the die. Then it shows 2 arrows one for the top wrench then another arrow for the other wrench going the opposite direction. I tried a 223 case, I ran the die into the press until it touched the shell holder with the handle in the up position. I put a case in the shell holder and the pin doesn't touch the primer. The decapping pin is too far up inside the die body.
I used one of those Lee decappers for awhile and had to change the rod after breaking the pin. Wow that nut was really tight. Had to put it in the vise and put a 1/2 socket on it. Use a 6 point. I don't like them because you have to replace the whole rod if you break the pin instead of just replacing the pin. Eventually I always break the pin in a decapper, not as often in dies.
 
Turning the top nut doesn't adjust anything, it's just a collet that clamps the whole rod in place. Loosen, then slide the rod down, typically so it's flush with the top nut, then tighten the hell out of it.
 
Turning the top nut doesn't adjust anything, it's just a collet that clamps the whole rod in place. Loosen, then slide the rod down, typically so it's flush with the top nut, then tighten the hell out of it.
Correct, but don't tighten the hell out of it...lol...It's supposed to slide up in case of an obstruction so you don't break the pin... So just tight enough to knock the primers out without it pushing up...
 
Yeah, true, I don't shoot crimped primer brass so I never worry about it, but especially when the die is new they tend to slip much easier. Certainly no tighter than you can get with a 5" wrench.
 
If one has access to a lathe the center pin can be repaired. Face off, center drill, use a #52 or #53 drill and then stake or epoxy a standard small diameter pin replacement in the hole. Only leave half the depriming pin protruding from the end of the main pin. Now usable for Lapua brass and stiff enough to punch out crimped primers. I do both ends.
 
Well I fixed the problem. It took a 10" plumbers wrench to break it loose. The top nut was basically tightened down like they had used a 5ft extension bar. It was brand new that thing should have never been that tight from the factory.
 
You loosen the top "lock ring" (collet?) and you MANUALLY move the stem up or down. Be sure there is still enough tension that the stem does not move on its own. Be sure to have a case all the way in the die with the decapping pin going through the flash hole before you tighten the lock rings/collets and tighten them to the point where sweat breaks out on your forehead.
It's a lot easier NOT to touch any sizing die's decapping stem unless there is a real problem (i.e., you've broken the pin because you didn't inspect the case interior for Berdan primer). Every sizing die I have bought for over 40 years has been properly set from the factory and they have all been a problem to re-adjust.
I have been using a Lee Universal Decapping Die for about 12 years and never had any issue with it.
 
Would not pop any primers out, that is why I had to loosen the nut. Readjusted the pin and now it pops the primers. I just cant Imagine why they tightened soooo tight from the factory.
 
I just cant Imagine why they tightened soooo tight from the factory.

Grab a couple hundred military .223s and decap them. When that pin starts creeping up inside the die, you will know why it was so friggin tight. Keep the little brass hammer handy. A couple taps to get the pin back down and you are in business for another 30 or so.

Steve :)
 

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