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Anyone Have a Savage 110 High Country?

I dont have that model but i do have a 110 tactical, same accu stock. Stock is solid with aluminum down the whole stock. It has been more accurate than what i was expecting. I would not hesitate to get another. Its the reason why now i own 4 savage rifles. Only down fall is if you work the bolts slower brass does not spit out of action. If you work it faster like you need another hunting shot it works fine. Most of my shooting is off a bench so i dont want my brass going flying.
 
Got one in .243. Cerakoted / fluted bbl. Great hunting rifle. Shoots hand loads 85 Nosler. Accurate enough to make a wound channel. Trigger is not awful. I tried to change trigger to Rifle Basix but I could not make it fit... Rifle Basix said Savage changed something.. I don't recall exactly what the issue was.

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I've had a love/hate relationship with mine. 300WM.

Bad:

Copper collector barrels
Non-dependable feeding actions
Balance way off, way nose heavy
Stock screws and cheek piece system is cheapy
Mine took 150rnds to find sub-MOA
Rough chamber that scores brass
Bottom magazine button limits aftermarket stocks

Good:

Looks F'N sweet with the spiral flutes, camo stock, and bronze color coating (Many compliments by others)
Trigger is set to telepathic
Solid aluminum bedding
Muzzle brake works great
Recoil pad works great
The muzzle brake and recoil pad have it felt recoil of maybe a .243 WIN.

Fixes of Bad: (In order of above list)

Savage cuts their barrels with a million concentric rings that collect copper badly. Savage rifles come from factory heavily coppered. You'll need a good copper solvent. I think there are a couple threads about the best copper solvent on here.

I've fixed feeding issues on 5 Savage 110s. All NIB laced with copper build up and failure to feed rounds stripped from the magazine. I had to bevel the ejector on all bolts at 30ish degrees towards the firing pin hole to make them feed successfully.

110 HC stock I filled the hollow buttstock with .177 BBs suspended in crayola art puddy to balance out the rig. The added weight was worth the ridiculous nose heavy balance characteristics from factory form.

If you are unlucky like me and need to use the highest cheek riser in the kit, you either must clean from the muzzle end (YUK) Or, you must remove the recoil pad in order to get a cleaning rod into the gun. The screws thread into the plastic stock. No telling when that's going to crap out in time with repeated removals for cleaning.

Load development cost me. All the long high BC bullets like ELDMs, Bergers, Scenars wouldn't shoot MOA consistently. Tried and settled on 200gr Nosler Accubonds and its a sub-MOA beast!

The rough chamber has smooth out after a few hundred firings.

If you don't require a high cheek riser, then great, but finding aftermarket stocks for the 110 action, bottom magazine release button is difficult.

 
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Gargoyle, thanks for the info.What caliber? Funny thing about the barrel. I had a .223 that would keyhole at 25 yards with 55 grain factory ammo.
Sent it back and they said to use 68 grain bullets. This was a prairie dog rifle. Wanted to use 53 grain. Funny thing number two. Jack Kreiger said at a shot show one year that he thought the best factory barrel was Savage.
 
Gargoyle, thanks for the info.What caliber? Funny thing about the barrel. I had a .223 that would keyhole at 25 yards with 55 grain factory ammo.
Sent it back and they said to use 68 grain bullets. This was a prairie dog rifle. Wanted to use 53 grain. Funny thing number two. Jack Kreiger said at a shot show one year that he thought the best factory barrel was Savage.
whoops. 300WM.
 

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