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Anybody running cast bullets in a .40 S&W?

PopCharlie

I started with nothing. I still have some left.
Gold $$ Contributor
I have an STI Trojan in .40 S&W. I would like to try loading some 155 Gr LSWC bullets that were given to me. Digging around on here and on the internet, I came up with a starting load of 3.5 grs of TiteGroup (which I have). I'm just looking for some suggestions. I'd like to run them slow (800-850 FPS) to avoid leading the barrel, but with enough power to reliably cycle the action. The goal is to find a cheaper alternative to running JHPs all the time (which the gun shoots beautifully). The load would be for fun, no competition.

Thanks,
PopCharlie
 
do not go too slow...even worse leading.
the bullet needs to fill the bbl well,,a good starting push does that.
i have never shot 40s&w that lite so no help..look at accurate 5/7/9, or start higher with what you have
 
I have an STI Trojan in .40 S&W. I would like to try loading some 155 Gr LSWC bullets that were given to me. Digging around on here and on the internet, I came up with a starting load of 3.5 grs of TiteGroup (which I have). I'm just looking for some suggestions. I'd like to run them slow (800-850 FPS) to avoid leading the barrel, but with enough power to reliably cycle the action. The goal is to find a cheaper alternative to running JHPs all the time (which the gun shoots beautifully). The load would be for fun, no competition.

Thanks,
PopCharlie
I shoot 155 in my Khar 40 all the time no Issue.

 
Ditch the cast bullets. Get powder coated. I run 180gr and 200gr at full speed in 10mm, the powder coat is intact on recovered bullets. No problem in a 40. Barely more expensive than bare lead. I get mine from Missouri Bullets or Bayou Bullets. No leading. Ever. Full speed in 44 Mag too.
 
I shoot the 175g Truncated Cone from a Lee mold and GT 175g TC bullets

and 180g from this guy:



Both bullets are very, very accurate out of my Springfield XDM Match competition. I am shooting Tight group with no feeding issues from either bullet.
 
I know you already have the bullets.. and that they are probably already lubed, so may be hard to powder coat them... This is my experience with 9mm only, maybe it will apply to you should you choose to try it.

I tried various bullet sizing die sizes to push a 9mm at a light/moderate load in a P320. Nothing seemed to work. These bullets were wheel weight lead that were powder coated with one coat. What worked for me was a second powder coating.
 
I have shot many thousands of cast bullets from my PARA P16 with Tightgroup. ITS GOING TO SMOKE BAD! Some lubes are better than others. The blue lube from Dardas was the best to not smoke and the worst was Valliant red lube. Almost all I shot were 180 truncated cone. I have lots of Tightgroup and the loads shot very accurate so I shoot them. I would most defiantly never shoot indoors with this combo. When I run out of the stock of cast I have I will restock with plated bullets since Dardas and Valliant are both out of business now. Tightgroup is a fine powder and smokes way less in the other calibers I shoot cast in (mostly 45) but in 40 its a skeeter killer. If you need any further pm me. Good Shooting, Matt
 
I have an STI Trojan in .40 S&W. I would like to try loading some 155 Gr LSWC bullets that were given to me. Digging around on here and on the internet, I came up with a starting load of 3.5 grs of TiteGroup (which I have). I'm just looking for some suggestions. I'd like to run them slow (800-850 FPS) to avoid leading the barrel, but with enough power to reliably cycle the action. The goal is to find a cheaper alternative to running JHPs all the time (which the gun shoots beautifully). The load would be for fun, no competition.

Thanks,
PopCharlie
If that load will not cycle the pistol all you need to do is put in a lighter recoil spring.
I shoot mainly USPSA and Steel Challenge matches and do this all the time so I can use the same pistols with very different loads.

With the load you're talking about I would try a 8lb spring.
 
I have shot many thousands of cast bullets from my PARA P16 with Tightgroup. ITS GOING TO SMOKE BAD! Some lubes are better than others. The blue lube from Dardas was the best to not smoke and the worst was Valliant red lube. Almost all I shot were 180 truncated cone. I have lots of Tightgroup and the loads shot very accurate so I shoot them. I would most defiantly never shoot indoors with this combo. When I run out of the stock of cast I have I will restock with plated bullets since Dardas and Valliant are both out of business now. Tightgroup is a fine powder and smokes way less in the other calibers I shoot cast in (mostly 45) but in 40 its a skeeter killer. If you need any further pm me. Good Shooting, Matt
That’s why I prefer WST, I’m not sure why tiregroup make so much smoke with lube but it does.
 
If that load will not cycle the pistol all you need to do is put in a lighter recoil spring.
I shoot mainly USPSA and Steel Challenge matches and do this all the time so I can use the same pistols with very different loads.

With the load you're talking about I would try a 8lb spring.
Thanks for the info. I loaded up a small batch (25) of 155 gr Meister LSWC bullets on top of 4.0 gr TiteGroup for function testing. I'll also watch for leading.
Ditch the cast bullets. Get powder coated. I run 180gr and 200gr at full speed in 10mm, the powder coat is intact on recovered bullets. No problem in a 40. Barely more expensive than bare lead. I get mine from Missouri Bullets or Bayou Bullets. No leading. Ever. Full speed in 44 Mag too.
If I can't get the 155 gr LSWCs I have to run, I will try coated bullets. I shoot "slick coat" coated bullets from Hunters Supply in my .357 mag. 148 gr wadcutters, loaded in 38 special cases. 3.2 grs Unique. Average 750 FPS out of my 6 in. 686. Accurate, soft shooting load for practice.

PopCharlie
 
I have shot many thousands of cast bullets from my PARA P16 with Tightgroup. ITS GOING TO SMOKE BAD! Some lubes are better than others. The blue lube from Dardas was the best to not smoke and the worst was Valliant red lube. Almost all I shot were 180 truncated cone. I have lots of Tightgroup and the loads shot very accurate so I shoot them. I would most defiantly never shoot indoors with this combo. When I run out of the stock of cast I have I will restock with plated bullets since Dardas and Valliant are both out of business now. Tightgroup is a fine powder and smokes way less in the other calibers I shoot cast in (mostly 45) but in 40 its a skeeter killer. If you need any further pm me. Good Shooting, Matt
The 155 gr .40s I have are from Meister. They have blue lube on them. No idea what brand of lube.

PopCharlie
 
If the alloy is correct for pressure and velocity lubed will shoot just fine. I use lube and powdercoat, which one I choose depends on other factors.

For perspective I've shot 170gr boolits I cast with certified Lyman #2, gas checked, and lubed with WLL's X-loX 2500+ in my 7BR to a chronographed 2246fps with no leading at all.

The most common problem with pistol boolits is they're too hard (won't obturate) and/or the incorrect diameter for the bore. Slug the bore, measure, and choose a boolit sized .0015" - .002" larger than bore diameter.
 
That’s why I prefer WST, I’m not sure why tiregroup make so much smoke with lube but it does.
Your right. If I had enough of anything else that would work in 40 I would shoot it. But I have about 20 some odd pounds left and anything powder wise is high and hard to come by. Good shooting, Matt
 
The 155 gr .40s I have are from Meister. They have blue lube on them. No idea what brand of lube.

PopCharlie
It is gonna smoke for sure. But the blue lubes have seamed to be slightly less than the red imo. I can look but I think your loads are very light from my notes for cast using tightgroup. I am pretty certain I am well over a grain over your load with 180's. But dont hold me to it until I check my notes. Mine were loaded for USPSA Major PF.
 

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