Any way to push a primer pocket foward?

[MikeMcCasland]

I would section the one you cleaned up. The ring shown on the pic looking in the case mouth raises a few questions.

My end mill probably isn't as good as yours.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

A better look at the indentation; this is definitely getting smashed down by the decapping stem.



Ask me about the one trick to increase case capacity that none of the pros want you to know about!

 

[mike mccormick]

A better look at the indentation; this is definitely getting smashed down by the decapping stem.

View attachment 1273026

Ask me about the one trick to increase case capacity that none of the pros want you to know about!

If it was me ( I'm an idiot too, so.....) I would cut it out with a uniformer and load a couple. From the sectioned case, it looks like it should be ok. My opinion, worth the price paid.

 

[ronemus]

I think the uniformer is your best bet - you've put a lot of stress into the web where you've moved it, and moving it back may break a plug out (case heads are hard by design). By eye, it appears that the remaining web is 0.050-0,060" thick, so uniforming 0.020" deeper shouldn't be an issue. If that concerns you, you could remove less brass - just enough to make the primers flush when properly seated; this would require an adjustable uniformer (all of mine are Sinclair solid carbide) or a thin washer to reduce the depth cut.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Need to trim your shell holder down so it doesn’t cam over

I'm gonna call up Harrels tomorrow and order one of their sizing dies like I should have done from the start. Their D3 6BRA die has .085" cut off bottom of it, and is setup for the BRA#1 reamer (mine is just a BRA1 w/ a .272nk and .150fb).

Honestly if I weren't being a dumba$$, this wouldn't have been a problem. The decapping pin was sticking out quite a bit (I should have known), but I just assumed it was how the Wilsons were setup (this is my first Wilson sizing die). I didn't really think much about it....tossed my bushing in, screwed the cap down until it stopped, then backed it off 1/4 turn, setup my bump....done

I suspect I had been making contact with the pin for the first two firings, but it wasn't bad enough to notice. What exacerbated the issue was me picking up a 2nd BRA rifle earlier this week. That rifle headspaces .001 shorter than my current one, so I adjusted the die in a thou to compensate.

Today I go to resize all my brass with the die setup .001 shorter than before and suddenly I can't seat primers. Maybe I loosened up the decapping rod on accident while adjusting the die? Not sure. I felt additional resistance when sizing, but assumed it was because I was caming over that extra .001.

Now that I've screwed the Whidden lock ring on there it'll probably work just fine; it should actually retain the bushing, but the rod won't be so close to the case web. That said, I'll use this as a lesson learned and "do it right" with a Harrels.

Regardless, stupid hurts. Sometimes it's expensive, but it's how we learn.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Yeah we’ve all done stupid things. Hopefully the brass will still work. Who knows, maybe it will shoot better than ever before and everyone will start smashing the flash hole with their recapping rods! Lol

 

[Old Navy]

With 55K members here I bet there are a lot of us that graduated from the school of hard knocks.

 

[DaveTooley]

I don't see a problem. Uniform them and move on.

 

[dellet]

A pin/drill bit the size of the primer pocket, another inside the case the size of the neck to support the web and use a press or even a vice push it back

Even if you only move the brass half the distance, it’s that much less you need to remove.

You don’t want to push against the rim of the case because it will distort before the primer pocket moves.

 

[wvlongshot]

I'm gonna call up Harrels tomorrow and order one of their sizing dies like I should have done from the start. Their D3 6BRA die has .085" cut off bottom of it, and is setup for the BRA#1 reamer (mine is just a BRA1 w/ a .272nk and .150fb).

Honestly if I weren't being a dumba$$, this wouldn't have been a problem. The decapping pin was sticking out quite a bit (I should have known), but I just assumed it was how the Wilsons were setup (this is my first Wilson sizing die). I didn't really think much about it....tossed my bushing in, screwed the cap down until it stopped, then backed it off 1/4 turn, setup my bump....done

I suspect I had been making contact with the pin for the first two firings, but it wasn't bad enough to notice. What exacerbated the issue was me picking up a 2nd BRA rifle earlier this week. That rifle headspaces .001 shorter than my current one, so I adjusted the die in a thou to compensate.

Today I go to resize all my brass with the die setup .001 shorter than before and suddenly I can't seat primers. Maybe I loosened up the decapping rod on accident while adjusting the die? Not sure. I felt additional resistance when sizing, but assumed it was because I was caming over that extra .001.

Now that I've screwed the Whidden lock ring on there it'll probably work just fine; it should actually retain the bushing, but the rod won't be so close to the case web. That said, I'll use this as a lesson learned and "do it right" with a Harrels.

Regardless, stupid hurts. Sometimes it's expensive, but it's how we learn.

Just a fyi on the harrels dies, some of them have a short decapping pin so the difference between a spent primer coming out and or bottoming out on decapping rod like you experienced is fine line. I done exactly what you did except bent 2 rods before figuring it out.

 

[Mikemci]

Decap as a separate operation.
First thing I do with a new sizing die, is take that rod/pin out.

 

[danny]

If a primer pocket was pushed towards the case head, is it possible to push it back out?

Current depth is .101, depth on a new pocket should be around .120. 6BRA brass.

Dillion super swage is an option, or uniform it, but I suspect there's not enough material to uniform it out.

The Dillon Super Swage is only for removing military primer pocket crimps and only works on the primer pocket mouth.

Danny