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Any recommendations on digital calipers

I have Mito's, Fowlers, Craftsman and a few others (mostly hand me downs from my dad who retired after 50 yrs as a machinist) but I will admit I run around my shop with a pair of $20 Neiko's that I bought off amazon and have been for several years now and have beat the crap out of them. But every time I check them on the Jo Blocks (yes, a real set that is WAY older than any of us, i think) they are spot on with my $300 calipers, so I use them for routine stuff then only break out the big boys if I want to double check should i have doubts...which, at this point, naw. But I also use micrometers whenever I can instead of a caliper. So, yes, imho, which isnt worth much, you CAN get by with a cheap set, if you get a good cheap set, but also imho, you want a good set so you KNOW you are getting good, consistent readings and you wont know that unless you got a set of Jo Blocks or another good set of known good calipers. Just depends on what you want to do and how confident you need to be in what you are doing. when I am working with tolerances of a thou or less, well, it better be a thou or less......i break out the big boys and verify. hope that helps..........
 
I bought a Mito many years ago. Dial. My father used precision measuring tools at work so I bought a good one. All of his stuff was USA because the others did not exist. I liked the fact that it had .1" for one revolution. His had two .1's" so it was hard to read. Bought a Nieko to try out a digital. First thing that I found out was it will eat batteries. I upgraded the type of battery, nickel hydrate or something, and it was better. It still eats batteries because it turns on by itself. And you have to make darn sure that you check the zero every time you use it. I like it but it is not worth more than I paid for it, maybe less. Probably should have returned it.
 
MITUTOYO 500-753-20, CD-P8” S, IP67 Absolute is what I like. Make sure to get the 8" version, it makes using the hornady comparators mush easier. The 6" will work but not as easy.
 
Mitutoyo for digital, Starrett for dial.

Essentially everyone saying their cheap calipers work... can't prove it. All of them will "work" in the sense they will provide a measurement, not fall apart. Most will even provide a measurement that is consistent within a short timeframe. What we want is an ACCURATE measurement.

If you use it a lot (like, you reload and do a few dozen measurements every single day) and/or you transport it to the range so it gets banged around it a bit, then aside from getting good ones, also get them re-calibrated occasionally. There will be a local tool calibration service, which will be weird to contact as almost all are on corporate accounts, but you should be able to contact them and walk in, pay a few bucks and then you know.
 
shoobe01 said:
Mitutoyo for digital, Starrett for dial.

Essentially everyone saying their cheap calipers work... can't prove it. All of them will "work" in the sense they will provide a measurement, not fall apart. Most will even provide a measurement that is consistent within a short timeframe. What we want is an ACCURATE measurement.
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Just how "accurate" is accurate . . . to within .0001 or .000001? When working on jet engine parts, .001 is NOT considered "accurate". :p:D

For me, it's not so much accuracy as I'm more interested in consistency. When I taking measurements, I want to be able to depend on get the same results every time. Even if it's not absolutely accurate, if it give me the same measurement each time, I can deal with that and get consistent loads.

If we all had "accurate" and consistent measuring instruments, we could depend on using shared information from other's. Like using a comparator, the accuracy of the measurement isn't as important as getting a consistent measurement the fits one's somewhat unique chamber.

I have one Mitutoyo I use to get as accurate and consistent as I want. I also have a couple of cheapo's that are not quite as accurate, but are consistent which I keep a comparator attached to and one with a headspace comparator.

Now if I were doing machining work, like trueing an action and barrel, then I'd emphasize accuracy to within .001 (or better) and expect consistency as well.

Anyway, that's my take on the subject for whatever little it's worth. :rolleyes: :)
 
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Perfectly align with Straightshooter, just didn't want to rant even more :)

The first measuring tools were simply ways to repeat a measurement, then a scale that was consistent.

For reloading and some other purposes, we share data a lot, so consistency is critical still but accuracy (consistency with others) is also important so your 1.43" is the same as mine.


Scale? Yeah, I had friends with optical comparators at work, for whom hand-measuring and 1/thou is NBD. It's fun to go into a conference room at at the client and see a whiteboard drawing with scale of items in single digit µm :)
 
243Lapua said:
I buy mine used on Ebay or sometimes here on this site. Mitutoyo digimatic and they do zero with a comparator.
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I have 2 units. Mitutoyo 6" and an off-brand. The Mitutoyo i can count on. The off-brand can be out as much as 1.5 thou. If 1.5 thou doesn't bother you, then save the bucks. If you like knowing that your tool will just do what it's supposed to do, then I do like Mitutoyo. They're tougher too but must be kept clean 'cause the slider tolerances are tiggggghhhhhht
 
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Charles McDonald said:
I would rather not spend more than 100 or so. I need it to zero with a comparator also. I very read some wont zero like that? I have no brand preferences but would rather stay away from cheap unknown brands. Thanks
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I do not like digital calipers, too sensitive. I do much better with std dial and if I need more percision a Mic.
 
Hermantk said:
...I do like Mitutoyo. They're tougher too but must be kept clean 'cause the slider tolarences are tiggggghhhhhht
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I am generally not one who keeps cases tools come in. I toss the case, put them in drawers, maybe have some tool organizers, etc. for the wrenches, etc.

The measuring tools like this one are in their cases. When not using it, the case is usually closed right away even.
 
:confused:you get what you pay for. I use a starret dial for my reloading or a starret micrometer and they are as consistant as you can get. Cheap reloading tools could get you hurt or worse.:oops: I use the best reloading tools money can buy and as much as I have shot hunting p. d. the last 20 years I am still way ahead of the game. Just saying:eek:
 
243Lapua said:
I buy mine used on Ebay or sometimes here on this site. Mitutoyo digimatic and they do zero with a comparator.
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I bought a brand new "Mitutoyo" on eBay once, a few years back. It turned out to be a cheap Chinese knockoff. I forget how I learned that, since the seller didn't bother to ship it to me. It worked out OK, though. eBay (or was it PayPal?) refunded my purchase cost. I was glad I hadn't used the PP "friends and family" scam.
 
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