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another tumbling media?

Nu Finish contains silicone and that doesn't go on MY cases .

I use the cats meow as far as I'm concerned . Ultrasonic with custom formulated liquid ( My recipe )
30-40 years old ultra tarnished grungy cases 3-5 minutes MAX. Water rinse . Then place into rotary tumbler W/ SS pins and Non foaming detergent** plus Borax ** Dawn dishwashing soap Lemishine Alconox all work equally well .
**I put #2 Tbl. White vinegar in the water kills foaming . And if you need jewelry quality cases ,DRY thoroughly and use Fine Walnut & Corn cob with Polishing Rouge .

May sound like a lot of work but it's Quick . Ultrasonic 4 Minutes ,Rotary tumbler Max. 20 minutes ,. Quick water rinse ,then I've got a Large Dillon case separator with Tub I rigged with a belt drive ,so it spins by itself and a small fan blows across it. That's the longest part is drying cases but it depends upon Temp and humidity ,some days 30 minutes other days 1.5 hours . Big Dillon vibratory media tumbler MAX 20 minutes and You've got JEWELRY BRASS .
What You are looking at is Once fired original 1943 M1 Ball cases compared to same ,after 4 Minutes in the Ultrasonic cleaner a water rinse and dried with paper towel . NO additional anything else done . I have NO problem running those cases after annealing neck shoulder . Insides are as clean as outside . And believe Me that is about as tarnished brass cases ,as anyone is ever gonna find !. I run them in the Garand's and have had ZERO problems and some have #10 firings . I DO anneal ( hate that phrase as it's Not really annealing ) make neck and shoulder malleable by heating 850 Deg. F. ,Rims Never see 220 Deg.F. . Works for ME :)

FYI : I use a #3 Transducer variable frequency Commercial ultrasonic machine ,wanted that made clear .
 

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Nu Finish contains silicone and that doesn't go on MY cases .

I use the cats meow as far as I'm concerned . Ultrasonic with custom formulated liquid ( My recipe )
30-40 years old ultra tarnished grungy cases 3-5 minutes MAX. Water rinse . Then place into rotary tumbler W/ SS pins and Non foaming detergent** plus Borax ** Dawn dishwashing soap Lemishine Alconox all work equally well .
**I put #2 Tbl. White vinegar in the water kills foaming . And if you need jewelry quality cases ,DRY thoroughly and use Fine Walnut & Corn cob with Polishing Rouge .

May sound like a lot of work but it's Quick . Ultrasonic 4 Minutes ,Rotary tumbler Max. 20 minutes ,. Quick water rinse ,then I've got a Large Dillon case separator with Tub I rigged with a belt drive ,so it spins by itself and a small fan blows across it. That's the longest part is drying cases but it depends upon Temp and humidity ,some days 30 minutes other days 1.5 hours . Big Dillon vibratory media tumbler MAX 20 minutes and You've got JEWELRY BRASS .
What You are looking at is Once fired original 1943 M1 Ball cases compared to same ,after 4 Minutes in the Ultrasonic cleaner a water rinse and dried with paper towel . NO additional anything else done . I have NO problem running those cases after annealing neck shoulder . Insides are as clean as outside . And believe Me that is about as tarnished brass cases ,as anyone is ever gonna find !. I run them in the Garand's and have had ZERO problems and some have #10 firings . I DO anneal ( hate that phrase as it's Not really annealing ) make neck and shoulder malleable by heating 850 Deg. F. ,Rims Never see 220 Deg.F. . Works for ME :)

FYI : I use a #3 Transducer variable frequency Commercial ultrasonic machine ,wanted that made clear .
Just curious, why no silicone on your brass? What is the issue(s)?
 
Just curious, why no silicone on your brass? What is the issue(s)?


It's a personal preference but since You asked : I use Boeshield T9 as a case lube and Krytox Aerospace grease on ALL MY firearms mechanical surfaces . So silicone anything is a contaminate for ME .

Lubricants with silicone or PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) are best for use on plastic surfaces. PTFE is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water, so lubricants containing it are effective in damp conditions. Silicone lubricants make surfaces ultra-slippery while repelling water. They’re safe to use on rubber, plastic, wood and metal. While some lubricants can be used around painting operations, silicone-based lubricants should not,**

Silicone or PTFE products are suitable for plastic-to-plastic lubrication, but the silicone will form a thicker, wetter layer that may collect dust and dirt. PTFE will have a thinner, yet harder layer that will not attract dust or absorb grime.

** NEVER use silicone on ANY fiberglass or epoxy composite surface . Silicone will migrate through the polyester gelcoat and right into the glass mat or fabric . Thus making structure weaker as well as Near impossible to repair or replace . Used to see people using that crap on Boats personal watercraft and it WREAKS HAVOC ,as does Suntan lotions . Majority of people are unaware of dangers using such things around certain types of plastics .
 
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