okie
Gold $$ Contributor
I will for that case. It is a mystery why that neck down is problematic. I have done multiple others without any problems, some moving two calibers down. go figure
Another Stupid Question about resizing 6.5x47 to 6x47
- Thread starter Badbob
- Start date
Gentlemen, I've been watching this for sometime, & other threads earlier. This summer I had a 6x47L built. I actually purchased some used (Already formed & fired) brass, & I bought a new box of 6.5x47L brass. I read all the articles, & bought a Forster FL sizer. I used it to neck-down to 6mm. But, as others have mentioned, I ended up with a number of (kinda ugly) crooked necks. I even tried a very slight start with a bushing die, & finished the process with the Forster FL die, that sorta worked, but, I wasn't all that happy with my results... Now, reading previous messages here, I think I'll try the Whidden FL bushing neck die, W/O expander!!!! I'll try just about anything, to make this process easier, with better results!!!!!!! I'm about ready to get another box of 6.5x47 brass, But, I don't want the earlier issues I've had already!!!!! Thanks for ALL the INFO here guys!!!!!!!!!!!!! Idaho-45
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
no it does not. i do not use expanders in the die. maybe mine is a rarity but they look fireformed right out of the die and thats the way i use em
One of the things that helped me the most was to turn the necks first - while they are still 6.5 mm dia.
When you neck these cases down the wall thickess of the neck has to increase, and the length, even without the use of an expander.
So, you can turn the 6.5 neck down to .011" - then after sizing down to 6mm, the wall thickness will be very close to the desired .0125".
This makes the forming process much easier on the die, with less stress and work hardening on the brass neck.
Works for me.
When you neck these cases down the wall thickess of the neck has to increase, and the length, even without the use of an expander.
So, you can turn the 6.5 neck down to .011" - then after sizing down to 6mm, the wall thickness will be very close to the desired .0125".
This makes the forming process much easier on the die, with less stress and work hardening on the brass neck.
Works for me.
My Redding die set came with a shoulder bump die and a bushing neck die. Just simply run the 6.5 brass into the bump die and the necks will ALMOST be reduced to 6mm. I simply switch to the neck die and finish the process. The cases already are lubed.....takes another 5 - 10 min to do 100 cases. NEVER lost a case this way.
Sorry if this has been mentioned, as I didn't read all twelveteen posts.
Tod
Sorry if this has been mentioned, as I didn't read all twelveteen posts.
Tod
okie
Gold $$ Contributor
were they custom dies or a package set? what was the set called?
Stock item at Sinclair Int. Redding type "S" Match Die Set. Redding # 38415. Sinclair part number 749 008 179WS. Comes with the body die, Bushing neck die, and Comp bullet seater with the micrometer.
Good stuff,
Tod
okie
Gold $$ Contributor
thanks, been so long since i have bought anything im kinda lost. appreciate it
A friend of mine had a 6-47L built about 10 years ago and he asked me for help prepping his brass. We tried using regular dies, bushing dies...nothing worked well.....we lost a lot of cases. When I jumped into the Dasher I used the false shoulder method to form the brass......neck up to .257 and back down. I still had good memories of destroying all of that Lupua brass when helping my friend. So, I asked around on this fourm and they sugjested a body die. Worked like a champion, so when I got my 6-47L setup I made sure to get the body die. True, it is 1 more step for everyday loading...bump the body/shoulder and THEN decap and size the necks. But as stated earlier...the second pass takes about 5 min to do 100 cases.
Tod
Last edited:
okie
Gold $$ Contributor
I called sinclair,redding and forster, shouldve asked here first. I lost a lot of cases too--my kids like using the press so an extra step doesnt bother me. thanks again
Another pointer...don't just screw the die down to the shell holder and run them through. Use this process to eliminate the head space on the new brass. Size them down just enough so your bolt will close with some force....ZERO headspace. AKA a false shoulder .....think Dasher. When I started on my (now failed) 6.5-284 last spring I had .010 - .012 head space with my new brass. UNEXCEPTABLE in my world...so.... I sized them up to .277 and then back down to .264...but only enough so that the it took some force to close the bolt. Zero head space...PERFECT!!
Use lots of lube (where have you heard that before)....
...on the bolt silly....you don't want to gall (sp) your lugs.
Tod
Use lots of lube (where have you heard that before)....
...on the bolt silly....you don't want to gall (sp) your lugs.
Tod
okie
Gold $$ Contributor
ok, will do. my rifles barely close on the go gauge--I gripe at my smith for doing this on hunting chambers...he still wont listen. i bet it works perfectly. gonna get a tub of imperial--lolAnother pointer...don't just screw the die down to the shell holder and run them through. Use this process to eliminate the head space on the new brass. Size them down just enough so your bolt will close with some force....ZERO headspace. AKA a false shoulder .....think Dasher. When I started on my (now failed) 6.5-284 last spring I had .010 - .012 head space with my new brass. UNEXCEPTABLE in my world...so.... I sized them up to .277 and then back down to .264...but only enough so that the it took some force to close the bolt. Zero head space...PERFECT!!
Use lots of lube (where have you heard that before)....
...on the bolt silly....you don't want to gall (sp) your lugs.
Tod
thanks! marc
Just because the go gauge says that you are GTG...check the new brass. When making 6-47 or Dasher brass I set the die down a little at a time. I remove the firing pin for better feel and screw the die in little by little till the brass just barely fits in the chamber. The go/no go gauge simply tells you that your chamber is in spec.....your new brass could be way out . Since you are making your brass there is no way to test till you make it fit your chamber. Get it set up correctly and you will be rewarded with more uniform brass.
The lube I was talking about is for your locking lugs on your action....get some good high PSI bolt grease.
Tod
Folks, a quick update on my progress. My Whidden FL bushing die came in the mail tonight with two bushings .274 and .269. I spent some time documenting average shoulders and case mouth wall thickness. I chamfered the outside of all the cases mouths and used Imperial case lube in preparation for the first squeeze.
I am following DSTOENNER's method but using different bushings to ease the resizing.
I removed the expander from the Whidden die and use my GoGauge to set the cam throw of my press. Put the .274 bushing in and proceeded on step 1. Wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged after doing 200 cases. I put in the .269 and did several cases. Again. neck wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged. Everything looks and feels good! My barrel is at the smith getting threaded for a brake so I can't test chambering. I wouldn't say there is a bulge but rather not as sharp an angle at the neck and shoulder as I would have liked. I am assuming once I fire form and run the FL die per Whidden's instructions (basically bumping the shoulder back .003-.005") I will see the neck sized all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction and it will be clean, well defined and sharp. If not I will proceed to neck turning. Wall thickness after using the .269 is .0126" on average, which is unchanged from my initial measurements of the virgin Lapua brass.
Stay tuned! BB
I am following DSTOENNER's method but using different bushings to ease the resizing.
I removed the expander from the Whidden die and use my GoGauge to set the cam throw of my press. Put the .274 bushing in and proceeded on step 1. Wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged after doing 200 cases. I put in the .269 and did several cases. Again. neck wall thickness unchanged and shoulder bump unchanged. Everything looks and feels good! My barrel is at the smith getting threaded for a brake so I can't test chambering. I wouldn't say there is a bulge but rather not as sharp an angle at the neck and shoulder as I would have liked. I am assuming once I fire form and run the FL die per Whidden's instructions (basically bumping the shoulder back .003-.005") I will see the neck sized all the way down to the shoulder/neck junction and it will be clean, well defined and sharp. If not I will proceed to neck turning. Wall thickness after using the .269 is .0126" on average, which is unchanged from my initial measurements of the virgin Lapua brass.
Stay tuned! BB
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