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Another stumper.

Bedding? Perhaps an odd situation where the action screws cause the action to bend when tightened. It’s never happened on a Remington to me, but I’ve seen it a couple of times on Mausers. Easy to diagnose, loosen both screws, tighten the front tight, work the bolt, then start tightening the rear, half turn at a time while sliding the bolt back and forth, till you get it tight.

Sure sounds like an obstruction or burr in the bolt raceway to me... I think this problem is on the smith.

Wayne
 
Bedding? Perhaps an odd situation where the action screws cause the action to bend when tightened. It’s never happened on a Remington to me, but I’ve seen it a couple of times on Mausers. Easy to diagnose, loosen both screws, tighten the front tight, work the bolt, then start tightening the rear, half turn at a time while sliding the bolt back and forth, till you get it tight.

Sure sounds like an obstruction or burr in the bolt raceway to me... I think this problem is on the smith.

Wayne

that obstruction could be the front action screw overtightened and protruding into the bolt raceway. easy to see with a flashlight. i just looked in one of mine to see if it were possible.
 
Just about everything is covered by more learned members. Could there be a problem with the bolt release mechanism or trigger, some sort of interference?

EDIT, WAG: Remington? Barrel tenon out of concentric with action or bore, screwed back on to a different point.
 
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MSINC, I saw this happen on a friends 700 a month ago. He sent the barreled action in to be threaded for a can and when we put it back in the stock and worked the bolt it was tight and I could see the action was twisted/bent. The GS said it was hard to remove barrel.
 
I think this post is getting derailed. What does scope rings or action screws have to do with severe pressure? The way it reads is its got severe pressure and thats why the bolt is hard to slide back after firing? I guess we need to know if this happens without firing.
 
I’m with you, Dusty. He says the bolt unlocks ok, so it’s a chamber issue.o_O
Unless...........;)? The rear screw is “over tightened” and the bottom of the bolt is hitting it.

Hey 4x4fun!! Look at the rear action bolt where it comes thru the tang.
 
reading this post surely makes.me.curious

my thoughts are

i don't know how primary extraction could get messed up removing and replacing a barrel but i guess anything is possible.

This is a good point sir, on the one hand it cannot, if done properly. The action if twisted upon removal turns counter clockwise. Permanent twist instilled at removal will leave the back or rear of the action turned back, or "behind" the front. The locking lugs, being up front and the primary extraction cam being in the rear are now "out of time".
Bolt timing isn't just a matter of the bolt handle being close to the rear of the action at battery so it cams right, it can be out by rotation. The action, if turned as such has the bolt lugs trying to rotate more than they should {or sooner} before the cam actuates and begins extraction. It would be the same timing issue if the bolt handle were removed and reattached turned clockwise on the bolt.
I am not saying this is it or the problem with this particular gun, just a thought.
 
I think this post is getting derailed. What does scope rings or action screws have to do with severe pressure? The way it reads is its got severe pressure and thats why the bolt is hard to slide back after firing? I guess we need to know if this happens without firing.

Also...I should clear something up...in the OP I said "big PSI signs". Now, I didn't take a REAL close look at the primers for PSI, and as stated, the initial opening of the bolt is fine....it is just at and after the cam at the point where you pull the bolt back that I considered "BIG PSI" Might not be a psi thing, but, it sure acts like it.

No sir, the way it reads to me is it may or may not.....so if this post is derailed......
 
A friend of mine has an issue with his factory Rem 700 in 300 Win Mag. The gun shot great with both factory and hand loads. No issues, no problems, no PSI signs....just an all around good gun. He decided to have a Brake installed. Now, big PSI signs. The bolt opens ok, but you can hardly pull the bolt back. Reloads, factory rounds, new brass, fired brass, light loads, heavy loads...all create an issue when pulling the bolt back. I had him fire some factory rounds with and without the break installed....same thing. I was thinking it was a sticky ejector (plunger), but, wouldn't that cause a problem with unfired brass , too? I haven't had a chance to check the ejector, yet.

Anyway, i can't figure it out, and his smith says everything checks out OK.

Any ideas????


Thanks,
Tod
4x, I have a 700 long range in .300 win mag and it does the very same thing ? Bolt lifts fine with all loads but just as yours it sticks and has to be popped back? It does not feel anything like pressure ,its more like a detent . Mine has a break as well and is free of any carbon. Is this anything like yours is doing?
 
If the smith over tightened the front guard screw it's very easy to tell.. Take the firing pin assembly out of the bolt and put the stripped bolt back in the rifle.. It should fall down when closing with no interference.. If you have to push the bolt handle down it's probably hitting the front guard screw. If so shorten the screw until there's no interference.. This shouldn't have anything to do with pressure signs..

The smith may not have removed the barrel from the action to thread the muzzle ------- Ask him how he did his set up..

A burr or ding on the crown shouldn't cause pressure spikes unless it's REALLY REALLY bad..

A 700 has the serial # etched on the bolt body, it should match the number on the action..

A carbon ring immediately in front of the chamber could cause pressure hits as well as an extremely fouled barrel as in tons of copper
Bore scope the whole barrel..

could be a burr in the chamber or ring which should show on fired brass
 
I think this post is getting derailed. What does scope rings or action screws have to do with severe pressure? The way it reads is its got severe pressure and thats why the bolt is hard to slide back after firing? I guess we need to know if this happens without firing.
In his origunal post he says gun worked fine. Then sends to gunsmith and now it doesn't. Says factory, low and high pressure loads all stick. I assume they didn't before. I wonder if it does it without firing also. Then I would take it out the stock or loosen action screws an see if it does it. Then lastly i would take out scope screws. That would at least rule out screws.

I have seen a gun that worked good for a couple of barrels. Then the bolt started working hard. The gun was bedded and with aluminum pillars. The rear action screw pushed the metal in the groove up a little and binded the bolt. It was a Bat with a blind hole. Filed a little metal out the groove and shortened the screw a little and it worked fine. Matt
 
I have seen a gun that worked good for a couple of barrels. Then the bolt started working hard. The gun was bedded and with aluminum pillars. The rear action screw pushed the metal in the groove up a little and binded the bolt. It was a Bat with a blind hole. Filed a little metal out the groove and shortened the screw a little and it worked fine. Matt

That happens a lot with bats. Any trash or bedding in that rear hole will bend that metal up. Its very thin
 
A question on a twisted action. Wouldn't the bolt bind whether or not there was a shell in it or not ...fired or unfired?
 
A question on a twisted action. Wouldn't the bolt bind whether or not there was a shell in it or not ...fired or unfired?

Yes. Thats why i was asking if i read your first post correctly- this happens when firing or anytime. You said building pressure so i assumed this only happens when firing
 
A question on a twisted action. Wouldn't the bolt bind whether or not there was a shell in it or not ...fired or unfired?

Maybe, if it's twisted enough it for certain will. If only slight then the bolt and lugs can track okay until a case is trying to go in or out of the chamber. then it will feel funny.
 
What exactly would that be and what to do about it? Thanks
Muleman, I'll try my best here. When you open your bolt and it starts to cam over is when the extractor starts to pull the fired case free from the chamber, if your not getting enough of that "pull" then extraction of the case is very difficult. I only have experience on a Savage I re barreled to 6mm br. I shimmed the baffle in front of the bolt handle to start the cam process sooner giving more primary extraction. I do not own nor have ever owned a Rem so do not know if it works the same. The best way to tell is fire a round an use a feeler gauge as a shim between action and bolt cam to see if that helps ! I hope I'm making some sence and have not just made myself sound like an idiot. Experts if I'm way out in left field please say so.
Thanks Bill
 

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