Another die setup ?

[Bojo]

I have an idea but it might be a bad one.
Im setting up for 6xc and am trying to minimally work my brass and also not over bump my shoulders.

Is it possible to set the die up with the decapper/expander rod out of them by using go/no go gages for shoulder bump ?

Please if its a bad idea feel free to flame me.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I do not understand your concern about over working your brass. I load for two 6BRXs and one 6PPC always annealing every firing and full length resizing along with bumping the shoulders. I regularly get a minimum of 50 reloads on cases , often close to 100. I load on the hot side, no limp loads. Why do you think bumping shoulder will cause you difficulty? I think your chasing ghosts perhaps.

 

[K22]

What kind of die?

Also, a full sizing die does more than just bump the shoulder back, it also sizes the radial dimension of the case.

Many guys use mandrels or bushing dies to size the necks to minimize working the neck. I use a series of varying diameter expander buttons with my full size dies to achieve desired neck tension.

If you control shoulder set back by measuring with a bump gauge and caliper and stay within .001 to .002" set back, in my experience you will not over work the case.

 

[coldboreshot]

I have an idea but it might be a bad one.
Im setting up for 6xc and am trying to minimally work my brass and also not over bump my shoulders.

Is it possible to set the die up with the decapper/expander rod out of them by using go/no go gages for shoulder bump ?

Please if its a bad idea feel free to flame me.

This what I've learned from sizing...The physical sizing (shoulder bump) does not begin until the cam-over of the press linkage. This is where my fired case goes thru in increments until the amount of shoulder bump is established. Sometimes perfect, other times the use of die shims to fine tune by a .001 or so. The body will be sized regardless. I just think, within the camming-over part of the linkage, you would not get any accurate measurements using a solid go no-go gage. I think the motion of the die would have to act on a moveable material such as a piece of brass. The sacrifice of a piece of brass is a small price for finished intention. My 2c.

 

[coldboreshot]

This what I've learned from sizing...The physical sizing (shoulder bump) does not begin until the cam-over of the press linkage. This is where my fired case goes thru in increments until the amount of shoulder bump is established. Sometimes perfect, other times the use of die shims to fine tune by a .001 or so. The body will be sized regardless. I just think, within the camming-over part of the linkage, you would not get any accurate measurements using a solid go no-go gage. I think the motion of the die would have to act on a moveable material such as a piece of brass. The sacrifice of a piece of brass is a small price for finished intention. My 2c.

I might add, this applies to the dies I use. I cannot speak for die blanks that may be custom chambered for specifically chambered barrels. Haven't had the pleasure, yet.

 

[Bojo]

Sorry i have 2 sizers .
Tubbs 6xc with the shoulder /neck bushing being one.
The other a Redding full lenght bushing die.
I was just wondering if it was possible to use go no go to set the shoulder portion of the die for depth, as in lower handle to full cam over and thread die down till GO touches while i had a .001 shim under shell holder.

Yes i may be far overthinking it. I was just wondering if this polish brainstorm of mine would yeild faster die setup, with a setting far closer to the barrel set dimension.

I pulled my decapper/expander rod out and by hand slid my GO gage in until the shoulder junction. Easy peezy , gotta hold it up with a finger. Easy to find the shoulder bump/junction part of the die with compression of the body part.


Like i said in my original post i was just brainstorming and had this thought..
Sounds like it is a bad one.
Im just always looking for free easy way to get the job done more efficiently without short cutting quality.

 

[Webster]

I have an idea but it might be a bad one.
Im setting up for 6xc and am trying to minimally work my brass and also not over bump my shoulders.

Is it possible to set the die up with the decapper/expander rod out of them by using go/no go gages for shoulder bump ?

Please if its a bad idea feel free to flame me.

You don't know how much a go/no go adjustment moves the shoulder. Buy a bump gauge, then you can get actual mesurements. They don,t cost much. I use one with a HF digital caliper. An all metal one without all the plastic parts. If you anneal and don't shoot hot loads you should get good case life.

 

[gdbleb]

I tried that myself just out of curiosity. You hit a rock-hard stop on the steel gage so go gently. It is way longer than what you need to set back the shoulder on the brass and you have to lower the die back down for normal brass operation.

 

[jepp2]

.The physical sizing (shoulder bump) does not begin until the cam-over of the press linkage.

My experience is contrary to that. But it all depends on your rifle headspace, the make of the die you are using, your case lube, and the work hardening in the case.

Whidden dies are intentionally made shorter than most of the major die manufacturers. You typically will not even be in contact with the shell holder when you have your die adjusted properly.

I have more Redding die than any other manufacturer, and I might size by brass less than most. I adjust my dies to set the shoulder back 0.001" from the case head to datum that would allow me to feel the stripped bolt close on a sized brass cartridge. And that will typically be much longer than 0.002" shoulder bump from the fired dimension (which can be several thousandths less than bolt contact). With that adjustment, with my Redding dies, I am not at the cam over point on my press.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

As I use a Dillon 550 for 308 loads, I never have a crank over. I have no problem setting the shoulder bump, just setting the die with a Hornady gauge. It's pretty straightforward. Currently using a Forster "benchrest" ( no bushing) FL die. I size, prime, clean and measure the first case. Then, maybe every 5-6 cases to check the "bump".

 

[Fast14riot]

Use @Erik Cortina method. Know your starting measutement on the brass. Run it up in the die. Measure bump. Now you know how much the die moved the brass. Then measure from base of die to base of lock ring (out of the press) and adjust lock ring how much you need. Verify bump with one more case. Done. Two cases used and likely only 1 will not be correct bump and can be a fouling shot.