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Annie annealer users have any pointers for me? Have one on the way

I just purchased an Annie from a member here that should be here in the next week. It has the water cooled coil. I'm going to start annealing my brass every firing to keep things consistent. Any pointers to help me with the learning curve? Probably going to start out with Hornady 6.5 creedmoor brass. Haven't decided if I'm going to build a drop through table or not. Opinions appreciated. :)
 
I purchased the adjustable height base to go with mine, you will need some way to adjust the height of the coil over whatever you are using to hold your brass cases to get the anneal where you want it.
Sacrifice a few cases, mark them so you don't reload them, and use them to set your anneal time. I use Tempilac {spelling?) paint, 450, 750, and 1000. I run 4-5 cases to get the unit warmed up and then test with the tempilac. You can paint the outside of the cases using electrical induction. As soon as the paint melts and turns color it has reached temp. The neck will always get hotter because it is thinner. It's OK if it just starts to glow for a fraction of a second. Top of the necks get to 1000 degrees on mine and they are still not too soft. If you make a drop box, and you will, production will become very fast, and that will raise the working temp. of the unit, and you will have to re-adjust accordingly. You will notice the necks glowing too red and too long. Just test the neck hardness and you will know they are too soft. Don't worry, they are not ruined. Turn the timer down a bit and retest.
If you get a few too soft while testing and developing a production routine, just set them aside, and later lube the necks well, expand them with a mandrel, resize them back again, and they will harden up again.
When I get the results I want, I take notes, record the settings, brass type, etc., wipe off the Tempilac, store the marked test cases, in something for the next time. Mark them well and do not reload them.
Once you get the routine down for each cartridge and brand of case and the notes taken, consistency will become repeatable.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 
Also if you anneal every firing, develop some method of lubing the inside of the necks. The anneal burns off all the carbon, and bullet insertion force varies a lot without the inside neck lube. This is the reason I stopped annealing after every firing.
 
I have but don't use the adjustable height base. I just let the water cooled coil stick out past the bench. I hold the brass by hand and use the foot peddle. 1.5 to 2.5 seconds, depending on the cartridge and I drop them in a metal container with a fan blowing on it.

Unless you're annealing thousands of cases no need to get anymore elaborate.
 
I have but don't use the adjustable height base. I just let the water cooled coil stick out past the bench. I hold the brass by hand and use the foot peddle. 1.5 to 2.5 seconds, depending on the cartridge and I drop them in a metal container with a fan blowing on it.

Unless you're annealing thousands of cases no need to get anymore elaborate.
That seems the simplests way to do it but not sure it's very consistent. I'd rather have the brass stationary while it's being annealed. I like the ideal of building some type of glass or metal holder where you set the brass in it primer pocket up.
 
You'd be surprised how consistent you can be with the water coil by hand. You have the coil ring as a guide for consistent placement of the case in the coil, hold it steady for a second or two and you're done. Remember the goal in only to anneal the neck, so I normally hold the case with the top of the neck level with the top of the water coil. It's so fast you'd almost have to try to not properly anneal the neck.
 

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