annealing

[RW]

for ackley cartridges would you anneal before fire forming or after or both but what would be the proper sequence. Thank You RW

 

[Willie]

I just put a false shoulder on them, form them, then anneal for the second firing. If your brass has been fired & resized previously......, anneal before forming.

 

[RegionRat]

I agree with Willie. You wouldn’t need to ahead of fire forming because you should start with virgin or 1X at most. I tend to inspect them real close as I open the bolt, then again after I deprime and clean them up for annealing.

 

[jthor]

Do before and after. Most important is annealing before though.

 

[std7mag]

I always do mine after fireforming.
If your using virgin cases, they have already been annealed at the factory.

If your forming after being fired several times already, you should anneal first.

 

[riflewoman]

If your using virgin cases, you don’t need to anneal before. If you’re using some older cases or even 7mm Mauser brass, I’d anneal before. I also do NOT recommend using 6mm Remington brass AT ALL.

 

[BobB1691]

Do before and after. Most important is annealing before though.

Jthor I'm working on Gina's annealer and was told you new what spring to use for my trap door solenoid? Thanks

Bob

 

[PatMiles]

Anneal before and after, not going to hurt a thing and might just save a piece of brass or two, what's to lose?

 

[bozo699]

Anneal before and after, not going to hurt a thing and might just save a piece of brass or two, what's to lose?

Love your profile picture PatMiles!....
Wayne

 

[PatMiles]

Love your profile picture PatMiles!....
Wayne

Thank you sir!

 

[500yards]

I believe that one of Ackley's requirement was that you could just fire a factory round in the improved chamber because he kept the same headspace datum dimension. that being said you would be able to buy a box of factories if you needed to and use them. you should get a copy of "Handbook for Shooters & Reloaders Vol 1 & 2" by P.O. Ackley for additional information. it is very good reading and everybody that is serious about reloading should have it.

 

[riflewoman]

I believe that one of Ackley's requirement was that you could just fire a factory round in the improved chamber because he kept the same headspace datum dimension. that being said you would be able to buy a box of factories if you needed to and use them. you should get a copy of "Handbook for Shooters & Reloaders Vol 1 & 2" by P.O. Ackley for additional information. it is very good reading and everybody that is serious about reloading should have it.

The way Ackley set up his “Improved” chambers was to set up the “headspace” 0.004 shorter, but the datum changed to the neck & shoulder junction. That way a standard cartridge had a slight crush to support it while firing the fire forming shot.

 

[Plumsask]

If your using virgin cases, you don’t need to anneal before. If you’re using some older cases or even 7mm Mauser brass, I’d anneal before. I also do NOT recommend using 6mm Remington brass AT ALL.

I'm wondering if you could explain why you dont reccomend using 6mm Remington brass? Donyou mean rem gton brand brass or 6mm remington brass in general? What is the issue you have found with it as well? Thanks

Plum

 

[riflewoman]

Actually it was Winchester 6mm Remington brass. After fireforming, these cases developed a ring crack near the (new) body and shoulder junction. Maybe it was something I did, but there were enough of them that failed that I no longer use 6mm Brass to make 257 Ackley.

 

[bozo699]

View attachment 1159857 Actually it was Winchester 6mm Remington brass. After fireforming, these cases developed a ring crack near the (new) body and shoulder junction. Maybe it was something I did, but there were enough of them that failed that I no longer use 6mm Brass to make 257 Ackley.

Buy some 7x57 RWS or Norma brass for your 6 or .257 Ackleys
Wayne