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Annealing + Trim Brass — Which Should Be Done First.

I realize the OP's question didn't make mention of sizing, but just asks about annealing and trimming.

However, for most of us the annealing order is more tied to sizing and as a result trimming/chamfering follows sizing.

I would typically anneal before sizing, and as a result that would put trimming after sizing since the amount of case growth is variable but not settled till after sizing and there can always be dented necks which need to be rounded. Even this order is arbitrary in some instances depending on the condition of the necks, however,
another reason to size before trim/chamfer, is to give the tool the opportunity to have a rounded neck to cut.

There is no hard rule that says "you have to anneal before sizing" but it is my opinion this is more beneficial.

So, since it is more often the case that one would anneal before sizing, for the same reason you would then trim/chamfer after annealing.

If you are not picky at all, it wouldn't matter, but if you are being picky, then your length isn't set till after sizing and that is when you would trim.

Another reason for the order is that when processing large volumes of factory brass for prairie dog shooting, an opportunity for the neck to split comes from sizing and then the trim and chamfer operations will pick it up.

In the last five or ten years, many of my friends have been using factory Fiocchi prairie dog ammo which is notorious for neck splits. In theory, annealing first would help reduce the probability of neck splits.
Then after sizing, the trim and chamfer steps make it easy to detect a split neck. We have had roughly 20 to 40 split necks on the first firing per 1000 which are detected during chamfer/trim. Then I have still has about one or two per thousand split after seating. YMMV
 
Please don’t treat your highly precise induction annealer as a substitute for an oven or allowing them to dry naturally over night. If nothing else, it is extremely hard to put a consistent amount of energy into a piece of brass when each piece has a different amount of fluid left on it.
Dave
I'm using gas/flame. The primer pockets will still keep a bit of moisture, but after the necks cool, I tip them over an let the pockets air dry.
 
If you’re going to anneal and trim your brass, Which do most do 1st.
and why
I would anneal, size then trim. Annealing first might reduce springback when sizing. The sizing might make the cases a few thou longer, so you might as well do the trim last. Personally I don't trim every reload. it isn't reasonable to see a difference on the target. Most of us don't shoot in serious competition and don't have a rifle or skills to shot aggregates around 0.220". Small groups and good enough for GH hunting. I don't compete against anyone. I am the enemy of GH.
 
If you’re going to anneal and trim your brass, Which do most do 1st.
and why
Actually, for the most part, I anneal then resize before I start any of these processes. After resizing is when I find out if I need to trim... after I know I need to trim it goes: trim -> resize -> load

I always end on a resize just to make everything uniform again.
 
Might consider getting the "actual physical measurement" of your chamber.
May be surprised that you may have a long way to go before trimming is needed.
Chambers are usually cut about .020 longer than listed max trim length.
Don't trim if you don't need to. ;)
 
I anneal immediately after my brass is cleaned, I always trim last unless I'm turning the necks then i trim before i turn the necks but that's only done once when the brass is new!
 
Please don’t treat your highly precise induction annealer as a substitute for an oven or allowing them to dry naturally over night. If nothing else, it is extremely hard to put a consistent amount of energy into a piece of brass when each piece has a different amount of fluid left on it.
Dave
After I tumble the cases and rinse I shake each case very hard to remove water. One day I decided to put the straw from a Dust-Off can in each case and blow out remaining water. I couldn,t believe how much water was left in some of the cases after shaking very hard.
 
After I tumble the cases and rinse I shake each case very hard to remove water. One day I decided to put the straw from a Dust-Off can in each case and blow out remaining water. I couldn,t believe how much water was left in some of the cases after shaking very hard.
I don’t clean brass anymore, but if I wet tumbled in any way, I would either let the brass dry naturally for 24-36 hours, or put them on a baking sheet at 150F for 1HR.
Dave
 
Webster, David M,

You now know why leaving wet, cleaned brass for a while even after passing gas through the case is a good thing. Especially if you think it's dry, since whay may have dried is crap to the case walls.

HTH,
DocBII
 
Webster, David M,

You now know why leaving wet, cleaned brass for a while even after passing gas through the case is a good thing. Especially if you think it's dry, since whay may have dried is crap to the case walls.

HTH,
DocBII
Not sure what you are trying to say above. I can’t tell if there is a question in there or what the intent is???
Dave
 
Exactly. Especially if you live in Texas or the Southwest. Crazy heat in Phoenix.
Dave
Maybe I should save up all my dirty brass till summer from now on.... Something to do when it is to damn hot to go shoot... Dern good idea, Bet I forget all about it this fall
 
After I tumble the cases and rinse I shake each case very hard to remove water. One day I decided to put the straw from a Dust-Off can in each case and blow out remaining water. I couldn,t believe how much water was left in some of the cases after shaking very hard.
I don't tumble my brass anymore. But, when I did, I purchased a small pancake-type air compressor that fit under my loading table. I add a needle point tip on the air line and used that to blow out the inside of the case.
 
My procedure is time driven.
After travel time and range time it's into the tumbler with the brass (walnut media).
Then a NAP.
Remove and dump and neck brush walnut residue and sort. 22 Nosgar and 22 Nosler.
When it gets dark outside, I cut off the overhead lights and 'calibrate' my flame annealer with loose pocket scrap brass. Run it up to just orange, then back down a tad.
Anneal shot brass.
Then a NAP.
The next day I body size, neck size with a LCD, deprime, trim long cases trying to keep them to the same length, deburr/chamfer.
My new brass does grow in length. After a couple firings and trim each batch gets closer to the same length.
 

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