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Annealing + Trim Brass — Which Should Be Done First.

I trim after sizing and before annealing. I find the cutter tends to catch the brass when it's softer after annealing and if it's not sized yet the lengths aren't consistent. But I anneal every 3rd firing so springback hasn't been an issue thus far.
 
I anneal right out of wet tumble to dry the brass. Then size, then neck, then tumble lube off in walnut. THEN it's time to trim if needed.
Please don’t treat your highly precise induction annealer as a substitute for an oven or allowing them to dry naturally over night. If nothing else, it is extremely hard to put a consistent amount of energy into a piece of brass when each piece has a different amount of fluid left on it.
Dave
 
Are you saying you size your brass before you anneal?……
Wayne
Yes. I'm not saying that's the best way for anyone else but I've not had any problems doing it that way. I have had problems trimming annealed brass because the cutter tends to catch on the softer brass. Perhaps it's a dull cutter but it doesn't appear to be.

Also, if you size after trimming I'm not sure how you can be sure your trimmed length will remain consistent. I've had trouble with that, too.
 
Yes. I'm not saying that's the best way for anyone else but I've not had any problems doing it that way. I have had problems trimming annealed brass because the cutter tends to catch on the softer brass. Perhaps it's a dull cutter but it doesn't appear to be.

Also, if you size after trimming I'm not sure how you can be sure your trimmed length will remain consistent. I've had trouble with that, too.
If you want your sizing to be consistent you need to size after annealing, it’s the whole purpose of annealing. Also in my opinion to be consistent you need to anneal every firing or not at all. Must be your trimmer mine has no problem on annealed brass. Trimming and chamfering is my last process.
Thank you for the reply
Wayne
 
If you want your sizing to be consistent you need to size after annealing, it’s the whole purpose of annealing. Also in my opinion to be consistent you need to anneal every firing or not at all. Must be your trimmer mine has no problem on annealed brass. Trimming and chamfering is my last process.
Thank you for the reply
Wayne
I suppose there's many different reasons for doing what we do. I personally anneal to prolong the life of my brass primary and to avoid neck tension issues as a secondary consideration. I never noticed a sizing issue but I've always annealed after the third firing.
 
The very first thing I do when getting home from shooting is anneal my brass. Then decapping, quick brush to the inside of the necks and on to lube and sizing. After sizing, I prime, calibrate scale and pour powder. Then, seat bullets with a K&M arbor press and Wilson hand die. Finally, all rounds are checked against the master and sorted by CBTO (entire 100 rounds will be +/-0.0005”). Rounds that are outside of +/-0.0005” CBTO are used for foulers or sighters.
Dave
 
I suppose there's many different reasons for doing what we do. I personally anneal to prolong the life of my brass primary and to avoid neck tension issues as a secondary consideration. I never noticed a sizing issue but I've always annealed after the third firing.
My reasons for annealing isn’t to prolong my brass although it does I believe, my reason is for consistency in shoulder bump and consistency in neck tension. If you was to use a K&M arbor press with force seat restoration or hydro press and maybe you do I don’t know but if you are you can feel and see how consistent your seating is when your brass is always the same and the necks are properly cared for. If you don’t anneal every time you will see and feel the difference in seating, as I’m sure you know the key to accuracy is consistency.
My process almost mirrors Dave M’s process
Wayne
 
I clean, decap, clean primer pockets, anneal. I anneal after every firing for consistent sizing and to prolong brass life. Then f/l size, neck size with a mandrel. Then I trim. I trim after all the sizing is done just for consistency. Then I deburr, rinse in lacquer thinner to remove the sizing lube. I then lube the insides of the necks with Neolube #2. Let everything dry. (Takes about 10 minutes). Then prime, charge, seat bullets.

PopCharlie
 

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