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Annealing Made Perfect

You can still paint the inside of the neck with Templaq and check it.
All that will tell you is it achieved the temperature of the Tempilaq. It does not tell you if you exceeded it. I suppose you could do a whole bunch of test with a bunch of different Tempilaq each time but how is that better? Remember, it has to be better since it is twice the cost and of course much slower...
 
All that will tell you is it achieved the temperature of the Tempilaq. It does not tell you if you exceeded it. I suppose you could do a whole bunch of test with a bunch of different Tempilaq each time but how is that better? Remember, it has to be better since it is twice the cost and of course much slower...

I have multiple temp. Templaq. Paint different stripes around the inside of the neck. This isn't rocket science.
 
I have had my Annie for about 7 months and have been very happy with it. I was using a Benchsource and switched to this for what I thought would be a little more consistency. Batch to batch seemed to change a little more with the benchsource depending on the flame level and aiming differences from the last time.

I have made a few changes since these pictures were taken. i added a switch at the end of the aluminum rails so that when I slide the case in to position it automatically starts the annie with no user intervention. Also set it up with a smaller power supply and a quieter motor to spin the cases.

101_0223x.jpg 101_0228x.jpg 101_0226x.jpg
 
^^^^ I like it...... A step in the right direction (away from flame).
Thanks for sharing,
Donovan
 
I own a benchsourse machine myself. I have shot and tested (group tested), annealing vs not annealing. I will be able to tell, but it's gonna take a couple years. As of last season, I was NOT going to anneal match brass EVER AGAIN.. this was after the test results most important to me. Your results on target do not necessarily follow your results on one of those seating force gadgets btw. I could be the most unbiased human around, I will share what I think down the road once I feel I have solid feedback.

Edit... the thing that really stands out to me is the repeatability likely achievable. It seems nearly impossible to be different from one set up to the next, and one brass to the next. And I'm totally cool with it if it sucks, I'll be right back to where I am now, NOT ANNEALING lol.


Tom
Tom the thing I saw with Dashers is the annealing is touchy with it. I believe it is because of the very thin necks. (.010 wall) It was very easy to go to far. In my WSM (013.5 wall) the effects of annealing was way easier to do and tell the results on paper. Matt
 
I have multiple temp. Templaq. Paint different stripes around the inside of the neck. This isn't rocket science.
Never said it was. In fact that is my exact question i.e. if you have to use Tempilaq to test the thing every time to make sure it is working, how is that better? Again, remember it cost 2x and is slower and it needs to show that it is definitely better.
 
Tom the thing I saw with Dashers is the annealing is touchy with it. I believe it is because of the very thin necks. (.010 wall) It was very easy to go to far. In my WSM (013.5 wall) the effects of annealing was way easier to do and tell the results on paper. Matt
My experience is that thinner necks are indeed much more touchy. But that can be dealt with relatively easily by moving the torches further from the brass/reducing their flame strength thus increasing the annealing time. I still remember having an annealing discussion on this board and having someone tell me the best way to anneal was with MAP gas so that they can get it done in a couple of seconds :eek:- that to me is completely counter productive in terms of getting an accurate anneal...

I guess if you are one of those BR shooters who need to have no neck tension, a dead soft neck would perhaps be a plus but not for the rest of us...
 
How many of us here have forked over the cash on the lab equipment to get the data they have? Not me for sure, I'm going to take the risk and get one. I should know in a couple years if the targets show a result, and I'll share my findings.

Tom
My hat is off to you Tom, if I had deeper pockets, I would be taking the same risk, Lord knows that anyone who has been around this game as long as I have been, has wasted a small fortune on gadgets that didn't work but personally that's the only way to find out and we all know the cost of education can be high. I'll be looking forward to your test results Tom and thank you for your curiosity and effort.
 
Tom the thing I saw with Dashers is the annealing is touchy with it. I believe it is because of the very thin necks. (.010 wall) It was very easy to go to far. In my WSM (013.5 wall) the effects of annealing was way easier to do and tell the results on paper. Matt

Matt -
Tom and I had that discussion the other day, and we were both in agreement, based on your success' with the 300-WSM, that there is no doubt differences from one cartridge to the next. Regardless, think we all are in agreement both ways can and have worked.

Myself, I desire to have all the brass in a set annealed to the same hardness, and to that same hardness every time I anneal that set. This is the first company that I have seen to be conforming and calibrating there machines to that same principal.
Will it be better? we won't know that until it has been proven out in the hands of a couple of us.......
I stopped trying to get annealing to work because I do not believe I was able to get my sets annealed to the same hardness every time, like I felt I needed/desired with gas flame.
Induction annealing has intrigued me for several years, but hadn't seen a marketed unit, until Amps, that tripped my trigger. There mini-vickers hardness testing and calibrating the induction to maintain one hardness parameter, points positives to my own desires.
Donovan
 
Matt -
Tom and I had that discussion the other day, and we were both in agreement, based on your success' with the 300-WSM, that there is no doubt differences from one cartridge to the next. Regardless, think we all are in agreement both ways can and have worked.

Myself, I desire to have all the brass in a set annealed to the same hardness, and to that same hardness every time I anneal that set. This is the first company that I have seen to be conforming and calibrating there machines to that same principal.
Will it be better? we won't know that until it has been proven out in the hands of a couple of us.......
I stopped trying to get annealing to work because I do not believe I was able to get my sets annealed to the same hardness every time, like I felt I needed to.
Induction annealing has intrigued me for several years, but hadn't seen a marketed unit, until Amps, that tripped my trigger. There mini-vickers hardness testing and calibrating the induction to maintain one hardness parameter, points positives to my own desires.
Donovan
My post was not for or against the new system. Hopefully it will work. My post was more or less confirming what Ton did or saw. Matt
 
Maybe this is what is needed. With the Dasher the problem encountered was getting the heat to where you need it. The necks being short and only .010 thick and the body being so short, made it hard to get the annealing where it is needed. Put the heat on the neck and it glows quick and not much down the body. Put it on the body and the heat goes down the case farther then I like. Matt
 
My post was not for or against the new system. Hopefully it will work. My post was more or less confirming what Ton did or saw. Matt
Matt -
That is how I took it as well....
Hope I didn't reply in a way to say you didn't. If I did, it was not my intent.
I am hoping it works also. A lot of money to find out.
Donovan
 
Maybe this is what is needed. With the Dasher the problem encountered was getting the heat to where you need it. The necks being short and only .010 thick and the body being so short, made it hard to get the annealing where it is needed. Put the heat on the neck and it glows quick and not much down the body. Put it on the body and the heat goes down the case farther then I like. Matt

Think your spot on with that assessment to what I myself encounter......
Great input !.!.!
 
That's pretty cool..I love it..would never spend the money on it. But would be a great gift..if someone needs ideas for me..
A 1000$ would buy a heck of alot of brass..
Also..I like annealing my brass, but by 10 reloading my primer pockets are lose and believe the brass is junk. I do have lapua brass on 14-15× reloaded..primer pockets still tight, but I think the brass is done, it has lived a long life.
If you think about it every firing causes brass to flow. How long can you reload the same brass until it is so out of spec. the only way to tell would be to cut it up and mic. It.
I just don't see the point in a machine that's 1000$ to save $$ on new brass...I would rather buy a couple barrels .
 
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That's pretty cool..I love it..would never spend the money on it. But would be a great gift..if someone needs ideas for me..
A 1000$ would buy a heck of alot of brass..
Also..I like annealing my brass, but by 10 reloading my primer pockets are lose and believe the brass is junk. I do have lapua brass on 14-15× reloaded..primer pockets still tight, but I think the brass is done, it has lived a long life.
If you think about it every firing causes brass to flow. How long can you reload the same brass until it is so out of spec. the only way to tell would be to cut it up and mic. It.
I just don't see the point in a machine that's 1000$ to save $$ on new brass...I would rather buy a couple barrels .

Annealing is not just about extending brass life. It's also about providing consistent and predictable neck tension and seating pressure, etc. I would think bench rest shooters would be all over this thing. In the game of high precision shooting $ 1000 is chicken feed.
 
^^^^^ +1

While extended brass life is a positive, consistent and predictable neck tension and shoulder bump is my primary desire.
Just have never been overly thrilled by gas flame methods results to my desires, and see inconsistency.
Donovan
 
I realize even new lapua brass can have to much neck tension. So annealing is a valuable tool.
The almost perfect annealer looks to be the best tool out there, I've never used one, I like the concept, and I believe it is the first one with all the testing for settings..very nicly done.
I have no problem spending 1000$ on a tool. But I just don't see a return on this one.
 
I wonder if those settings include a power setting and time. If it's just time it's no better than mine which feeds faster.
 
I like it, but I don't anneal enough to justify the cost. I don't mind the time, since I am never in a hurry when reloading. I reload for quality not quantity anyway. BUT, for me and me alone it solves a problem that I don't have right now. I'll save the link.
 
I wonder if those settings include a power setting and time. If it's just time it's no better than mine which feeds faster.
I believe electric would be more consistent because of gas having different pressure and burning at a different temperature. At least that is what I would think. Matt
 

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