Annealed, sized and what the heck ?

[TTE]

. . . even with 15 seconds of dwell time (BTW, that's a LONG dwell time ).

Well, apparently, that's not enough.
I decided to run them through the resizing die again before trying something else. I am 1/2 way through them right now.

Lubed them ran them up in the die. Gave it a 5 count rotated them some then back in the die for another 5 count ... did it again, then measured them and there was some improvement. Some of them come out .0005 of the target length and some of them come out spot on. Some of them I have to redo for a 10 count and some for a 20 count, but they are all spot on or .0005 long (which will work just fine).

I had one that would not "get better" after a 20 count. I am using a PMA Micro Adj. lock ring and it had come loose. Snugged it up and I was back in business.

Thanks to all that replied.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

If they all chamber easily, load them and go hunting. 0.0025 won't matter on critters, even small ones.

 

[L.Sherm]

Stop annealing. Problem solved. Or get an AMP. No way you will duplicate annealing from day to day with a flame. I do not anneal and life is simple. If I were animate about annealing then get the AMP. Period. "Flame suit on guys". Let me have it!!
Paul

I agree with Paul use very good brass like Lapua and ADG and forget annealing.
I load for 2- 6.5x06AI with formed 06 Lapua brass and never anneal and no problems

 

[243winxb]

6.5 06AI

More powder. Turn die down, more sizing.

 

[TTE]

If they all chamber easily, load them and go hunting. 0.0025 won't matter on critters, even small ones.

Bolt is quite hard to close at .0025.

 

[TTE]

I agree with Paul use very good brass like Lapua and ADG and forget annealing.
I load for 2- 6.5x06AI with formed 06 Lapua brass and never anneal and no problems

I tried '06 Lapua cases ..... they all came out quite a bit under 'trim to'.
I didn't want to deal with a larger carbon ring than I had to, so switched to 270 cases. The Starline cases worked, so just kept going with them.
I (and most likely you) can match 264 Win Mag. performance.

I switched to N165 powder now, not as fast as the other powders I tried, but plenty fast enough (3000fps, not a max load and lower powder burn temp), and .5 groups (again, plenty good enough for a hunting rifle).
Now that all the cases are sized properly, I just need to finish up the reloading of them and go hunting.

Thanks to all for your replies.

 

[L.Sherm]

I tried '06 Lapua cases ..... they all came out quite a bit under 'trim to'.
I didn't want to deal with a larger carbon ring than I had to, so switched to 270 cases. The Starline cases worked, so just kept going with them.
I (and most likely you) can match 264 Win Mag. performance.

I switched to N165 powder now, not as fast as the other powders I tried, but plenty fast enough (3000fps, not a max load and lower powder burn temp), and .5 groups (again, plenty good enough for a hunting rifle).
Now that all the cases are sized properly, I just need to finish up the reloading of them and go hunting.

Thanks to all for your replies.

I've had no problem with the carbon ring, I run alot of my cases .020 short, I can't tell a bit of a difference in cleaning one from .010 to .020.
I run the 140 Bergers at 3130 FPS with H1000 they both shot very well, one in a carbon and one in a steel barrel

 

[J_idaho]

Well, apparently, that's not enough.
I decided to run them through the resizing die again before trying something else. I am 1/2 way through them right now.

Lubed them ran them up in the die. Gave it a 5 count rotated them some then back in the die for another 5 count ... did it again, then measured them and there was some improvement. Some of them come out .0005 of the target length and some of them come out spot on. Some of them I have to redo for a 10 count and some for a 20 count, but they are all spot on or .0005 long (which will work just fine).

I had one that would not "get better" after a 20 count. I am using a PMA Micro Adj. lock ring and it had come loose. Snugged it up and I was back in business.

Thanks to all that replied.

Can I just ask what is your lube process? I’ve found with my brass lube is number one thing to cause inconsistencies in shoulder bump. Once I switched to one shot I don’t know if over lubing is even possible. Under lubing is though. There is always other variables but if all brass is same lot and processes are consistent you should only see small percentage of brass that is out of spec.

 

[TTE]

Can I just ask what is your lube process? I’ve found with my brass lube is number one thing to cause inconsistencies in shoulder bump. Once I switched to one shot I don’t know if over lubing is even possible. Under lubing is though. There is always other variables but if all brass is same lot and processes are consistent you should only see small percentage of brass that is out of spec.

I use RCBS lube .... first go round, I lube so I could see slight finger ridges on the case, spinning it in my fingers.
Last go round, I used a lot less lube ..... less that I was concerned of sticking a case. A slight dab on my index finger and spinning it top to bottom a couple of times.

 

[TTE]

I run alot of my cases .020 short

So you are at 2.474 on some cases ?

If so, did you notice much difference in point of impact with the shorter necks ?

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Keep the lube off the shoulders.

 

[TTE]

Keep the lube off the shoulders.

Not getting dents, so maybe it's not too much.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

No lube needed on shoulders, if the lube is water based, water doesn't compress. Case is not making contact with the die, if there is lube on the shoulder.