Advice for gas flame annealing - what is your process?

[Fuj]

2. I anneal out in my shop and the in winter it can be in low 40’s and when those 1 pound propane bottles get that cold I learned that the propane compresses and your flame pressure decreases and becomes very inconsistent. I started keeping a bottle in the house.
3. Get a 5lb bottle and a hose. Seems so much easier than messing with the 1lb.
4. Get a swirl flame tip. I did 50 pieces of 7prc brass tonight and it worked beautifully.

For years, I ran my set up off a propane grill tank. Cheaper and more
consistent. I plumbed the garage for natural gas, then came up with
opposing pencil tips to run off that supply, Even more consistent.
I'll turn out the lights and adjust the motor's drive speed to a point
that the necks are a dull red glow color then run em'. Generally it takes
6 seconds in the flame for Peterson. brass. I ran some thicker .308 LC
brass for a friend, and had to bump it up to 8 seconds.

 

[Truckbed]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

 

[Truckbed]

I do notice a change in spring-back as I go , and sometimes have to adjust bushing diameters accordingly

 

[chuckshooter]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

I tried using an acetylene torch, too hot, too fast. actually started melting a couple of the necks before I said "not a good idea". annealing is about achieving the right temperature and the right amount of time to soften the brass. With the acetylene torch, you have a split second to remove the heat or you've gone to far.

 

[NF1E]

May be boring, but I have used Giraud gear for some time. Trim and anneal 10-20k per year with no problems. Dull red works very well. Whatta Hobby!

 

[Gary in MD]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

I have used acetylene quite a bit but it was with a small B tank and fairly small tip, not a cutting torch. But I think it could be done if you kept the flame small and was careful.

 

[Truckbed]

I have used acetylene quite a bit but it was with a small B tank and fairly small tip, not a cutting torch. But I think it could be done if you kept the flame small and was careful.

Thanks, Gary. I have a small tip; since I have the rig figured I’d give it a try, keeping the pressure vey low

 

[mace2364]

I don't know where the 750°F came from. It may have been an adjustment from the 650°F that's for so long been touted as the temperature to use (e.g. using 650°F Tempilaq). I feel the 650°F came from a misread or misunderstanding of some studies where 650°C was determined to be a good temperature for annealing but was reported as 650°F by a reader of the study. That's a big difference. When you see the necks turn red, that color will certainly tell you that temperature is way more than 750°F.

View attachment 1685385

I’m pretty sure that temp/color chart is specific to steel, as I’m pretty sure I have the same one out in the shop. Other metals are going to behave differently.

 

[Straightshooter1]

I’m pretty sure that temp/color chart is specific to steel, as I’m pretty sure I have the same one out in the shop. Other metals are going to behave differently.

That chart does come from a web site for production machining. Regardless of material, the color heat relationship is pretty much the same due to the physics regarding incandescent objects that are heated. However, it's true that different metals will have a slightly different hue at a given temperature, but not significantly (in my understanding, as I'm not a metallurgist and just a minor science hobbyist )

 

[dusterdave173]

I was reluctant start flame annealing--it was a nerve wracking thing to start with but very soon I had it down and it was Zippity Do Da ! The reason I will keep on and always anneal is that sizing got a Lot easier--a Lot more consistent --and bullet seating force got very even --and..most of all..targets say I am doing something right

 

[BHP9]

The first line

That chart does come from a web site for production machining. Regardless of material, the color heat relationship is pretty much the same due to the physics regarding incandescent objects that are heated. However, it's true that different metals will have a slightly different hue at a given temperature, but not significantly (in my understanding, as I'm not a metallurgist and just a minor science hobbyist )

View attachment 1689044

The first line under that chat is:-

The above chart shows the heat treat colors for steel by temperature.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Thanks, Gary. I have a small tip; since I have the rig figured I’d give it a try, keeping the pressure vey low

Not sure what oxygen and acetylene prices are like in your location, but they are ridiculous here.
Propane is often $1/lb or so.

 

[Truckbed]

Not sure what oxygen and acetylene prices are like in your location, but they are ridiculous here.
Propane is often $1/lb or so.

My tanks are mostly full, only use it a few times a year to work on my broke-down farm equipment. So, for now, the price is right!