Advice for gas flame annealing - what is your process?

[Fuj]

2. I anneal out in my shop and the in winter it can be in low 40’s and when those 1 pound propane bottles get that cold I learned that the propane compresses and your flame pressure decreases and becomes very inconsistent. I started keeping a bottle in the house.
3. Get a 5lb bottle and a hose. Seems so much easier than messing with the 1lb.
4. Get a swirl flame tip. I did 50 pieces of 7prc brass tonight and it worked beautifully.

For years, I ran my set up off a propane grill tank. Cheaper and more
consistent. I plumbed the garage for natural gas, then came up with
opposing pencil tips to run off that supply, Even more consistent.
I'll turn out the lights and adjust the motor's drive speed to a point
that the necks are a dull red glow color then run em'. Generally it takes
6 seconds in the flame for Peterson. brass. I ran some thicker .308 LC
brass for a friend, and had to bump it up to 8 seconds.

 

[Truckbed]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

 

[Truckbed]

I do notice a change in spring-back as I go , and sometimes have to adjust bushing diameters accordingly

 

[chuckshooter]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

I tried using an acetylene torch, too hot, too fast. actually started melting a couple of the necks before I said "not a good idea". annealing is about achieving the right temperature and the right amount of time to soften the brass. With the acetylene torch, you have a split second to remove the heat or you've gone to far.

 

[NF1E]

May be boring, but I have used Giraud gear for some time. Trim and anneal 10-20k per year with no problems. Dull red works very well. Whatta Hobby!

 

[Gary in MD]

I have yet to take on annealing. I’m not a high volume shooter and try to ‘move’ my brass as little as possible…a bump and bushing enough to restore neck tension. Mandrel inside as final step , depending on neck uniformity. Mostly Wilson FL bushing dies.

I could set up my acetylene torch in the shop in a holder. Easy to adjust to a small clean blue flame. Then place brass in a holder in my cordless drill, spin her fast enough to spread the heat around in darkness to a dull red.

Is acetylene a no-go for some reason? I have heard it said that improper annealing is worse than no annealing, but I don’t know! I have never split a neck while reloading since I started in 1970. Of course I had never stuck a case…..until last year

I use an arbor and Wilson seaters on everything, so it’s easy to feel differences in seating tension. Now, if I had an AMP sitting here it would get used between every loading! But. $$. Thanks all!

I have used acetylene quite a bit but it was with a small B tank and fairly small tip, not a cutting torch. But I think it could be done if you kept the flame small and was careful.

 

[Truckbed]

I have used acetylene quite a bit but it was with a small B tank and fairly small tip, not a cutting torch. But I think it could be done if you kept the flame small and was careful.

Thanks, Gary. I have a small tip; since I have the rig figured I’d give it a try, keeping the pressure vey low