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Advice for Bryan Litz on barrel tuners.

I shot a lot with Gene at our local club in Tomball, and watched him break in many barrels, and tune them.

Dave, I tend to agree with you. Gene more or less had a “pet“ load that would use in his new barrels, which would be either a Krieger or a Bartlien. He would adjust the “snubber”, (one piece tuner with a rubber dampening feature), to where he felt the barrel was in it’s optimum vibration node, then start tuning the load in our more conventional methods with load, seating depth and neck tension untill he found his competitive tune.

He would be the first one to tell you he then avoided moving the tuner after that. He usually would tweak the powder charge a little to keep things going.

I sort of follow the same pattern with both my 6PPC’s and my 30BR. I have a load in either that I know will shoot in a cut rifled Krieger or Bartlien, My tuners are also a ‘snubber’ style.

I believe that you can find the correct vibration node that a barrel likes with a tuner, but to finally get the rifle at that magical “.200 or less agging capability”, the load, ie the correct combination of powder charge, neck tension, and seating depth has to be right.

WELL, WELL, WELL.

Thanks for the clarification Jackie. I was thinking on the Snubber I had of Gene's the instructions said to tune the rifle and then adjust the snubber. Then again maybe not, it's been a while.

Later
Dave
 
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I shot a lot with Gene at our local club in Tomball, and watched him break in many barrels, and tune them.

Dave, I tend to agree with you. Gene more or less had a “pet“ load that would use in his new barrels, which would be either a Krieger or a Bartlien. He would adjust the “snubber”, (one piece tuner with a rubber dampening feature), to where he felt the barrel was in it’s optimum vibration node, then start tuning the load in our more conventional methods with load, seating depth and neck tension untill he found his competitive tune.

He would be the first one to tell you he then avoided moving the tuner after that. He usually would tweak the powder charge a little to keep things going.

I sort of follow the same pattern with both my 6PPC’s and my 30BR. I have a load in either that I know will shoot in a cut rifled Krieger or Bartlien, My tuners are also a ‘snubber’ style.

I believe that you can find the correct vibration node that a barrel likes with a tuner, but to finally get the rifle at that magical “.200 or less agging capability”, the load, ie the correct combination of powder charge, neck tension, and seating depth has to be right.
Excellent clarification. I think that the issue for me is the idea that not adjusting a tuner over the course of a match weekend, but instead varying powder charges to stay up with ambient condition changes, makes what you are using not a tuner. That is impression that I got from an earlier post in this thread. If you say that a snubber is a subcategory within tuners, sure, at that point you are simply referring to its built in vibration damping.

Back in the day, when you were kind enough to give me one of your earliest style tuners, before you had added the rubber and brass part, I combined it with a prototype Sims Deresonator (convoluted soft rubber "doughnut") and found that the combination seemed to work better than either alone, and I shot the combination performance of that barrel was noticeably improved. I had not had a lot of time to work on tuning before the match. I went with what I had come up with and I think that I moved the tuner one time during the weekend. I don't remember if I varied my powder charges, but I think that I probably did. Back them pretty much all of the online discussion of tuners for centerfire suggested much larger adjustmets than the small moves that experience has proven better.
 
I shot a lot with Gene at our local club in Tomball, and watched him break in many barrels, and tune them.

Dave, I tend to agree with you. Gene more or less had a “pet“ load that would use in his new barrels, which would be either a Krieger or a Bartlien. He would adjust the “snubber”, (one piece tuner with a rubber dampening feature), to where he felt the barrel was in it’s optimum vibration node, then start tuning the load in our more conventional methods with load, seating depth and neck tension untill he found his competitive tune.

He would be the first one to tell you he then avoided moving the tuner after that. He usually would tweak the powder charge a little to keep things going.

I sort of follow the same pattern with both my 6PPC’s and my 30BR. I have a load in either that I know will shoot in a cut rifled Krieger or Bartlien, My tuners are also a ‘snubber’ style.

I believe that you can find the correct vibration node that a barrel likes with a tuner, but to finally get the rifle at that magical “.200 or less agging capability”, the load, ie the correct combination of powder charge, neck tension, and seating depth has to be right.
We aren't that far apart here, but that whole notion of a single magical tuner setting that brings everything into some magical harmony is just falacy. RF guys fall for the same thing a lot more, believing there is one mysterious and elusive place that shoots all ammo to its potential, all the time. Again, just plain false and I challenge anyone to offer any scientific basis for that. It's just not how it works in reality...or in science, fwiw. That's why Gene and I didn't always agree about how to best use a tuner. At least in Gewne's case and with most cf guys that never touch a tuner..at least they do realize that one must still change the load at times, to maintain peak tune. Now I'm not saying that his method didn't work for him..not at all. He was still tuning by changing the load, which we've all known works for a very long time.

You really just need to ask yourself why we need to change loads to maintain peak tune to understand why you can't rely on a single tuner setting, always. The same things apply. Yes, having a weight on the end of the bbl widens the node width, A LITTLE BIT. I won't get into specific numbers but I do have them and I can tell you that MOST of that aspect of a tuner gets lost in the noise and that a piece of rubber on the outside of the tuner is worth very near nothing t all. I do know of one tuner that the rubber is on the inside. Now that makes a bit more sense, from a physics standpoint. Just like a harmonic balancer on a car engine, those engineers saw it right to put the mass on the OUTSIDE of the rubber dampener. Why...because the rubber itself did very little. It was the mass, isolated from the shaft, by rubber, that did the work. There are numerous real world examples of this basic engineering principle at work. I'm not going into every example. I'm sorry if that steps on any toes...it's just the truth. Tuners with o-rings...well, they make for a good grip on the tuner but that's about it. I never bad mouth anybody's product and I'm not with that statement. As far as I know, no commercial tuner claims a benefit to dampening or vibration management from a few o-rings. So yes, they do have a benefit but it's little if anything in regard to how any tuner works. Yes...I said it and always will. I've tested just about everything, including non newtonian fluids for dampening. Even those, designed specifically for vibration dampening, fall way short of other materials, in this application. Their weight has some affect, but as you can imagine, it is small and worth little more than simply more mass to the tuner body itself. It is what it is. I can't change the truth. If you want to use polymers or rubbers, they are best used to isolate a separate mass from the tuner body. End of that.
 
I have a tuner and have used it on several rifles according to the manufacturer instructions. I have used it on custom loads and factory ammo, and on factory and custom rifles with heavy and medium barrels. In my limited testing, tuners appear to work, but then again I am not as stringent as Litz. My sample size has been limited to three shot groups and that has been good enough because that's what I see competitive shooters shoot.

A couple of weeks ago, I listened to Bryan Litz's Barrel Tuner episode from his Science of Accuracy site and encountered several inconsistencies that they mention in their episode. I've seen those inconsistencies pop up when competitive shooters who use them in competition are showing their tuner groups in a YT video. One of Litz's findings is that when looking at large sample size, it's not crystal clear which is the good or bad setting. Another is that sometimes a setting didn't produce the same result, i.e. not repeatable.

An interesting thing Litz observed late in testing is that there was a hint of correlation between set screw position and small groups.

Overall, I didn't get the impression that Litz or the guy helping him with the test were out to debunk tuners. If anything they wanted them to work for the advantage they may bring. Like a good scientist, at the end of the audio episode he welcomed other tests that show they work.
 
Once in tune, you can bring the load back when it goes out of tune by adjusting powder charge and/or seating depth; or you can bring it back in tune by adjusting the tuner. Does powder charge adjustment do the same thing to harmonics as tuner adjustment? I have always assumed so and sometimes choose to adjust powder rather than the tuner. Other times I turn the tuner a mark in the direction I think will adjust properly. If it gets worse, I go the other direction.
 
Overall, I didn't get the impression that Litz or the guy helping him with the test were out to debunk tuners. If anything they wanted them to work for the advantage they may bring. Like a good scientist, at the end of the audio episode he welcomed other tests that show they work.

About a year ago Bryan made a somewhat sceptical post on Facebook suggesting he didn't think tuners worked.

At the same time he was offered the opportunity to visit more than a couple of different people who disagreed with him and who said they would be more than happy to share what they knew about tuners with him. I seem to remember one of them was Aaron Hipp if Im not mistaken and Im sure he offered Bryan the chance to have one of his ATS tuners fitted and he would go through the whole tuning cycle thoroughly with him.

Clearly Bryan decided he could work it out for himself and we are here as a result.
 
That may or may not mean much.
Of course. But knowing the person involved, I'm pretty sure he has a fair idea how to use it, and probably wanted the test to succeed. Now whether he had the final say in how the test was ran, we can't really know. But I kinda doubt Litz was operating in a vacuum with regard either. I question a few of the things that were done myself but it wasn't my money being spent, so.. ..
 
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About a year ago Bryan made a somewhat sceptical post on Facebook suggesting he didn't think tuners worked.

At the same time he was offered the opportunity to visit more than a couple of different people who disagreed with him and who said they would be more than happy to share what they knew about tuners with him. I seem to remember one of them was Aaron Hipp if Im not mistaken and Im sure he offered Bryan the chance to have one of his ATS tuners fitted and he would go through the whole tuning cycle thoroughly with him.

Clearly Bryan decided he could work it out for himself and we are here as a result.
Being skeptical is a good thing. There's a distinct difference between "I don't think they work" to "They don't work and I'll prove it." I think Litz's approaches it with the former in mind and is open that his tests may show they work. As someone mentioned earlier one of his testers had a barrel tuner on his personal competition rifle, before he started the test he accepted that they worked.

In science, scientists publish their findings so their work can be scrutinized. One study/experiment is not the end all and be all. For those who think Litz's approach was flawed, you are free to do your own experiments and put up your results for scrutiny.
 

Gato said One study/experiment is not the end all and be all. For those who think Litz's approach was flawed, you are free to do your own experiments​


I absolutely agree. And when I test my tuners time and time again and see results like in the pic below with not just one rifle but either of the four that wear them I have to believe my E C Tuner/Brake works. I followed Erik's advice and went from zero to 10 @ setting 0 2 4 6 8 & 10 with 3 shot groups and then went back to 8 and shot a 5 shot group. Yes, I could have went further with another rotation but why waste components ? This was the second time I had done the test identically and came out with the same results both test. I don't need Brian Litz or anybody else to tell me whether a tuner works or not.

EDIT: BUT, I will say if the preliminary load development is NOT done - powder & charge, neck tension, and seating depth then a shooter may not see these results repeatedly. The load has to be right and the weather conditions can and most of the time will affect the groups and the tuner settings.
 

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You are the only one who has described it using that word that I am aware of. Everyone else who used his product calls it a tuner. Who put you in charge of making rules as to how they must be used? Of course you are free to call them whatever you want. I am not arguing with that at all.
BTW, According to Gene, he did adjust his tuners one time for each new barrel.
Yes he did!

But Gene did call them Snubbers.

Bart
 

Gato said One study/experiment is not the end all and be all. For those who think Litz's approach was flawed, you are free to do your own experiments​


I absolutely agree. And when I test my tuners time and time again and see results like in the pic below with not just one rifle but either of the four that wear them I have to believe my E C Tuner/Brake works. I followed Erik's advice and went from zero to 10 @ setting 0 2 4 6 8 & 10 with 3 shot groups and then went back to 8 and shot a 5 shot group. Yes, I could have went further with another rotation but why waste components ? This was the second time I had done the test identically and came out with the same results both test. I don't need Brian Litz or anybody else to tell me whether a tuner works or not.

EDIT: BUT, I will say if the preliminary load development is NOT done - powder & charge, neck tension, and seating depth then a shooter may not see these results repeatedly. The load has to be right and the weather conditions can and most of the time will affect the groups and the tuner settings.
I don't think going through a few more settings is a waste. I look for a full nodal cycle on the target. That being, from completely in tune, to completely out..AND back in. It confirms poi and repeatability of groups on both sides of a sweet spot. The target shows a bit a wind, IMO. TB0 could be wind. TB4 can not..from a rh twist barrel. Otherwise. I like it. It's readable.
 
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I don't think going through a few more settings is a waste. I look for a full noday cycle on the target. That being, from completely in tune, to completely out..AND back in. It confirms poi and repeatability of groups on both sides of a sweet spot. The target shows a bit a wind, IMO. TB0 could be wind. TB4 can not..from a rh twist barrel. Otherwise. I like it. It's readable.
Yea, I get that one can go from one extreme to the other with in and out of tune and I have done that in the past as well. Not real sure about wind affecting TB 0 cause my 100 yd. hole in the woods normally is not bothered by wind. Simply app. 15 ft. wide path cut into the otherwise thick woods and the only thing I could ever feel would be a slight tailwind. But even that would be mostly blocked by the 6 foot elevation build-up above the target elevation and my 12 foot (stud) wall height then plus the rise of the rafter @ 5 - 12 pitch shop where I am shooting from under a lean-to shed roof. WOW, I hope that made sense. LOL. Thanks for the observations for sure.
 
Yea, I get that one can go from one extreme to the other with in and out of tune and I have done that in the past as well. Not real sure about wind affecting TB 0 cause my 100 yd. hole in the woods normally is not bothered by wind. Simply app. 15 ft. wide path cut into the otherwise thick woods and the only thing I could ever feel would be a slight tailwind. But even that would be mostly blocked by the 6 foot elevation build-up above the target elevation and my 12 foot (stud) wall height then plus the rise of the rafter @ 5 - 12 pitch shop where I am shooting from under a lean-to shed roof. WOW, I hope that made sense. LOL. Thanks for the observations for sure.
Lol! It might've been all tune but it's missing a group formation that I would expect with my tuner. It might happen at tb1. For the same reason, I think it might be best at 7 or 9 rather than 8 but it's pretty good there. The vertical on the bottom row @8 is why I think that. I've tested his tuner a little bit but not enough to claim I know better than you or him, in terms of how far to move it but it looks to me like you might benefit from moving 1 mark at a time rather than 2. You may well have tested it already.
 
Lol! It might've been all tune but it's missing a group formation that I would expect with my tuner. It might happen at tb1. For the same reason, I think it might be best at 7 or 9 rather than 8 but it's pretty good there. The vertical on the bottom row @8 is why I think that. I've tested his tuner a little bit but not enough to claim I know better than you or him, in terms of how far to move it but it looks to me like you might benefit from moving 1 mark at a time rather than 2. You may well have tested it already.
Yea, I do normally check on either side of what I find by moving two number increments. I did look at 7 & 9 on the first test and basically the groups were pretty much the same as 8.
 
There are a lot of ways to setup a tuner/snubber for benchrest shooting
No one should think there is just one way to use them.

one method a lot of folks use that isn’t talked about much
one a target paper with multiple bulls

start with finding your seating depth and load without the tuner/snubber on
with tuner screwed all the way on fire one shot then turn the tuner out 180 degrees
fire a second shot at the same bull
continue this firing one shot move 180d fire a second shot until two shots go in the same hole with 180 degrees of tuner movement you are then in the widest window.
it may take several full revolutions until this happens but with a good bench rifle chambered in a BR caliber it will happen
 
There are a lot of ways to setup a tuner/snubber for benchrest shooting
No one should think there is just one way to use them.

one method a lot of folks use that isn’t talked about much
one a target paper with multiple bulls

start with finding your seating depth and load without the tuner/snubber on
with tuner screwed all the way on fire one shot then turn the tuner out 180 degrees
fire a second shot at the same bull
continue this firing one shot move 180d fire a second shot until two shots go in the same hole with 180 degrees of tuner movement you are then in the widest window.
it may take several full revolutions until this happens but with a good bench rifle chambered in a BR caliber it will happen
Very interesting Tim.
 

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