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Advice for a new press

If the piston is not chaotically aligned with the die it deforms the case, don't you think?

...

Lapua 6,5x47 cases headspace are 1.455" measured with Hornady gauge and Mitutoyo.
Fired cases on my rifle chamber are 1.471".
If I make a ligth touch with shell holder and die can't resize the case for fall down the bolt without any pression.
Again the caliber standard are CIP and not SAAMI.

Thanks
Hi Bora, I think you meant to say "correctly" rather than "chaotically". They are kind of opposites. An example of a funny mistranslation. BTW (By the way) your english is MUCH better than my Italian. Mais je parle un petit peau de Francais.

You give the measurement for a new Lapua case and a fired case. What is the measurement for a sized case, after you run it through your die?

I have a 223AI with a custom barrel. It also has a short chamber. I have to screw the die into the press such that when I work the lever, I get a solid contact when it cams over at the top of the throw. That is with NO case in the shell holder. When I measure the headspace after sizing it is exactly the same as before sizing (ie zero shoulder bump). If I only partly resize the case by not pushing the lever all the way, the headspace is longer than the fired case (and the fully resized case) by a few thousandths. Perhaps I should also take a 5-10 thou of the top of my shell holder so I can control how much shoulder bump I am getting. Alternatively I could take the rifle to my gunsmith and ask him to ream 5 thou deeper.

Just in case anyone has a thought that my gunsmith should have done a better job, he actually did a perfect job. I supplied a case from my old barrel and he duplicated the headspace exactly. Also, it shoots superbly. Best group is 0.15" for 5 shots at 100m in ideal conditions in a PRS rifle of a bipod and bag with a Gen2 Razor (27x). At that level of accuracy a significant portion of the error is shooting technique. The scope magnification is also becoming an issue when going for those sized groups. That accuracy is not a fluke either. I just have not had the conditions with low mirage and wind to do it again.
 
I really think the advice you have been given to start with shaving a little off of the top of the shell holder is excellent. In my own experience, I have a .243 that has a really tight chamber. Full length sizing with a Hornady sizing die leaves the case a very tight fit in the chamber...actually quite hard to close the bolt on a finished round. I had originally solved that problem by using a Redding body die and Lee collet die to size the necks. Of course length needs to be watched closely, but it worked.
I finally decided to give up on neck-sizing only for my various rifle rounds and, since the Redding body die worked, I bought a Redding full length sizing die. No such luck. It left me with the same issue the Hornady had given me - difficulty in chambering. I finally realized that really only left one common issue and shaved a couple thousandths of an inch off a shell holder, screwed the die down to just touch the holder and voila - problem solved. Cases entered the chamber easily and with minimal effort with both the Hornady and the Redding dies.
 
I might try sanding the top of the shell holder to try to reduce the gap between the case head and the die.
I'd like some ideas on how to hold the shell holder in the milling vice without it slipping off or getting damaged.
Yes, the chamber is short, but we can also measure the other parts of the case that are resized and could hinder insertion into the chamber.
Unfortunately, I don't have any fired cases.


I don't think it's narrow, I misspoke, it's short on headspace.
I trim the bottom of my sizing die
easiest method
I dont like having different shellholders and getting them mixed up
this way I can always adjust for needed headspace with that particular sizing die
with ANY shellholder
-
I might also add here , anyone concerned about removing sizing ability of their die by doing this, should look at the entrance of the bottom of the die, it almost always has some type of chamfer from machining at least .030" deep
So any .010" or so you remove from the bottom is not removing case sizing ability, but actually enhacing it by moving the sizeable portion more downward toward the shell holder, enhancing sizing ability further down the case, which in all actuality, that lower portion of the case does not expand or ever need to be sized anyway. Such as in the area of the extractor groove.
 
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I had a similar problem when I had a new barrel chambered for my rifle. I owned the reamer, and it had been used only 3 times. Chambering was done by a well known bench rest shooter.
I could not size a case to fit the new chamber, (Using the stripped bolt, let the handle just drop), using the same press and the same sizer die as my old barrel. The bottom of the die hit the shell holder, and I could not size the case down small enough.
I ground about .020 inches off the top of the shell holder. I was then able to adjust the die downwards, and size the case a little smaller.

I suggest that you grind some off the shell holder. It doesn't have to be perfect or parallel, because when you adjust the die downwards, you will have some space between the die and the shell holder.

Do this before you buy a new press, if a press is trying to press against a non moveable object, things will move sideways. You press is probably OK. You have not ruined a shell holder either, it can be used on your problem die, or other dies, and is a lot cheaper than a new press.
Ok and thanks for the suggestions.

One question for you and for the other guys that adviced me for shell holder grinding:

if I grind more than needed for keeping an adeguate headspace and the gap from the shell holder and the die are too much, I can have clickering or some other issue on chambering or case dimensions?

Thanks
 
Ok and thanks for the suggestions.

One question for you and for the other guys that adviced me for shell holder grinding:

if I grind more than needed for keeping an adeguate headspace and the gap from the shell holder and the die are too much, I can have clickering or some other issue on chambering or case dimensions?

Thanks
No, this will only let you use your die as it intended to do. Just run your die down until it touches your now ground off shell holder at top of press ram stroke. Back the die off now maybe 3/4 of a turn and start sizing a case, now keep adjusting the die down a little at a time until you get the bump your looking for.
 
Hi Bora, I think you meant to say "correctly" rather than "chaotically". They are kind of opposites. An example of a funny mistranslation. BTW (By the way) your english is MUCH better than my Italian. Mais je parle un petit peau de Francais.
Hi Dwubyd,
As I was saying, I use Google Translate and then try to double-check at least the technical terms, which are the most complicated to translate, but sometimes I miss something...
With gestures or words, you can always understand each other; you just need to be willing and have the will to understand the person you're speaking to.

You give the measurement for a new Lapua case and a fired case. What is the measurement for a sized case, after you run it through your die?
Headspace 1.4685"
Web 0.4715"
Shouder/Body junction 0.4550"


I have a 223AI with a custom barrel. It also has a short chamber. I have to screw the die into the press such that when I work the lever, I get a solid contact when it cams over at the top of the throw. That is with NO case in the shell holder. When I measure the headspace after sizing it is exactly the same as before sizing (ie zero shoulder bump). If I only partly resize the case by not pushing the lever all the way, the headspace is longer than the fired case (and the fully resized case) by a few thousandths. Perhaps I should also take a 5-10 thou of the top of my shell holder so I can control how much shoulder bump I am getting. Alternatively I could take the rifle to my gunsmith and ask him to ream 5 thou deeper.
H think tthat this are normal, when the case go on the die and make the contact with this, is squeezed and groove until it comes in contact with the part of the die that lowers the shoulder and causes it to move back and helps to decrease the size of the case.

Just in case anyone has a thought that my gunsmith should have done a better job, he actually did a perfect job. I supplied a case from my old barrel and he duplicated the headspace exactly. Also, it shoots superbly. Best group is 0.15" for 5 shots at 100m in ideal conditions in a PRS rifle of a bipod and bag with a Gen2 Razor (27x). At that level of accuracy a significant portion of the error is shooting technique. The scope magnification is also becoming an issue when going for those sized groups. That accuracy is not a fluke either. I just have not had the conditions with low mirage and wind to do it again.
Very nice job!
 
No, this will only let you use your die as it intended to do. Just run your die down until it touches your now ground off shell holder at top of press ram stroke. Back the die off now maybe 3/4 of a turn and start sizing a case, now keep adjusting the die down a little at a time until you get the bump your looking for.
Good, thanks for the confirmation.

One thing I don't like about my Big Boss and Redding bikes in general is the lever retainer, a simple spring pin.
They could have put a steel pin and secured it with a spring pin or a screw...
 
I confess. I did not read all 4 pages. Apologies if already covered. What did Redding say when you contacted them and discussed the problem you are having? Did they offer a solution? Did they offer to repair it? Did they offer to replace it at a good discount? I'd think they'd stand behind it if there was a defect. Good luck sorting it.
 
I confess. I did not read all 4 pages. Apologies if already covered. What did Redding say when you contacted them and discussed the problem you are having? Did they offer a solution? Did they offer to repair it? Did they offer to replace it at a good discount? I'd think they'd stand behind it if there was a defect. Good luck sorting it.
It is not a reloading press problem.
 
You need a set of these: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101253343

These will let you bump the shoulder more with your existing press.

As mentioned, you can also remove the top of your current shell plate. Or you can have the bottom of your die machined off to give more sizing opportunity (I'd recommend taking it to a machinist if that is what you do).

I'd also examine how you are lubing the cases for resizing. If you don't lube properly, the case can and will stick to the die (especially if the base of the case is blown out) and not size 100%, it will spring back. Finally are you annealing your cases? If they have been fired a bunch, they may need to be annealed to size properly.

Cheers,
Toby
the only problem i have with that set of holders is i would essentially be spending $80-90 for the ''one '' holder that I would need for that one cartridge . OK sure the #2 holder works with different caliber brass yet there is still the chance you would only use two shell holders from the kit
 
I have removed material from the bottom of a .223 Remington RCBS die to gain more sizing as this particular die was flexing my press more than I was comfortable with. You can see that light honing/sanding/grinding/filing (whichever word translates best for removing material) marks on the bottom.
17705584211421720479546442410376.jpg
 
I've put together a couple rifles with take off barrels that have come up a little short and have shortened a couple shell holders. Emery cloth on a foot square of 1/4 stainless plate steel and work in a circular motion. I use a 1" mic. To keep track of what I'm taking off and to make sure I'm taking the same all around. When I have them sizing enough for a good fit I hit them with a coloured permanent marker so they stand out.

Between ground shell holders and competition shell holders I size everything with shell holder to die contact, never have to adjust dies.
 
A few quick things to look at……

Ram movement, did anyone else notice the indicator reads in mm?
.18mm =.0071” measured at the top of the ram. Bottom of the ram will be less and then split in half. If there was any less movement at the bottom of the ram where it passes through the guide, there wouldn’t be enough clearance for lube.
It’s also possible that some of that movement is between the die and press threads.

Other numbers to note.
New case 1.455”
Fired case 1.471”
Sized case 1.4685”

The case stretched .016” on firing, was bumped back .0025”. Should be enough to not cause tight chambering. Probably worth looking closer at diameters.
Considering the excessive stretch, it’s worth looking at the shoulder angle also. If the angles are off you will need excessive bump.

Since a combination of body and neck dies are being used, the very top of the shoulder and base of the neck is not being touched. If the angles don’t match, it might take very excessive bump to remedy.

Something to check is if fired cases, allow the bolt to close easily. If they do, the die simply does not match the chamber.

But grinding the shell holder will certainly hide the symptom and allow the cases to chamber.
 
Hi, in my country, if you can't find a used Co-Ax in Italy, and once a year, one pops up at a used gun flea market, it costs more than a new one...

With the Co-Ax, can you resize a 6.5 Creedmoor case to 6.5x47 without damaging it?

What upgrades have you made to your Co-Ax?
Quick-change jaws, shorter-throw handle. I don't load 6.5 so I can't answer that question.
 

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