Advice for a new press

[tdogg]

Yes, the "piston" are the ram.
The chamber are short, my head space of fired case a the datum (Hornady .375 gauge) are 1.471"


The press is a Redding The Boss.


I don't usually use this much force to resize a case. I accidentally noticed that with the piston in the raised position, if I apply pressure to it, it moves.
The same thing happens when I press the lever; the piston flexes to the side.


I don't think it's a problem with the die or the shell holder itself; I think it's due to the chamber being the minimum CIP size (6.5x47 Lapua).
So, to get enough headspace to close the bolt without any effort, I have to screw the die in and aim for a minimum camover...


In my case, if I set the die with these tolerances I can't scale the headspace measurement.


To measure the headspace of a fired case, I use a Hornady comparator mounted on a Mitutoyo digital caliper.
To measure the case during resizing, I insert it into the rifle and try to close the bolt until it drops down on its own.
I removed the extractor pin from the bolt.

I use Forster dies (full honed .286 and neck) and Redding dies (body).

I mainly use Redding shell holders, but I also have RCBS shell holders.


I'm sure that with your help I will succeed.

p.s.: sorry to all for my bad english..

I have a couple of questions.

Do you have clickers with this brass in your gun (does it get stuck when trying to open the bolt)? What is the base diameter of the case as fired, after sizing, and when new (measured just above the extractor groove)?

Is the sizing die screwed all the way down such that when the press ram is all the way up it contacts the die? You mentioned minimum camover but I assume you mean maximum sizing, minimum shoulder datum length when the case is sized?

Have you verified the headspace on the rifle you are shooting?

What case lube are you using and how do you apply it?

Barring something noticeably wrong with your press, it most likely isn't the issue. You have a die/rifle/process issue to address.

Cheers,
Toby

 

[jpjulian]

Sounds like you need to grind a couple thousandths off the top of your shell holder. Easy to do with a bench type knife sharpening stone. Put a few drops of oil on the stone and rub the shell holder in a figure 8 pattern and rotate the shell holder in your fingers often. Measure often and try to size a case again after taking .002"-.004" off. I've done a few this way.

 

[Bora72]

Hello, I'll reply to everyone as soon as I can; this is the real problem with the press.

As for resizing the case, other than having to tighten the die a little more than necessary against the shell holder, everything is fine.

Thanks

 

[TC260]

Hello, I'll reply to everyone as soon as I can; this is the real problem with the press.

As for resizing the case, other than having to tighten the die a little more than necessary against the shell holder, everything is fine.

Thanks

I can clearly see the whole bench flexing and the indicator is moving across a round surface which magnifies the "measurement". If the cases are sizing fine I'm not sure what's hoping to be accomplished here.

 

[misser]

you can have my MEC Marksman when you pry my dead fingers from it.

 

[Bora72]

I own all 3 of the presses you are considering. All 3 of them are great, you can’t go wrong with any of them.
Ranking them by my preference:
Coax
Mec
Rockchucker

I’m actually considering adding a 2nd Coax to my bench. I’m too lazy to switch the jaws.

That being said, I think if you grind a little off of your dies, the press you have will do the work you need done.
I have ground several sets of dies to get them where they needed to be.

Thanks for your comment and advice on your presses.

Since everyone's recommending it, I'll get to work on the shell holder.

 

[Bora72]

An experienced shooter/reloader advised men to buy the Co-Ax. Mine is worth more (used) than I paid for it. Be patient and watch for sales. Not fast, but makes very consistent rounds. It's also great for sizing. I also use it to size/deprime pistol brass. There are a couple of things I don't like about it, but all minor. Some of these have aftermarket fixes.

Hi, in my country, if you can't find a used Co-Ax in Italy, and once a year, one pops up at a used gun flea market, it costs more than a new one...

With the Co-Ax, can you resize a 6.5 Creedmoor case to 6.5x47 without damaging it?

What upgrades have you made to your Co-Ax?

 

[Bora72]

Describe the rifle. Is it a factory barrel. I doubt there is aanything wrong with the press. All the press does is push the case into the die. The press has unlimited travel to simply push the case into the die. Your assuming you have a tight chamber. I'm sure the manufacturer uses chambering reamers made to SAAMI spec.

Hi, the rifle is a factory rifle.

I'm not assuming I have a narrow/short chamber. If I can't resize a case just by touching the shell holder to the die, but I have to screw the die in more than normal, the chamber is definitely shorter.

The 6.5x47 Lapua doesn't have SAAMI specifications, but CIP.

If the piston is not chaotically aligned with the die it deforms the case, don't you think?

Did you have the barrel chambered by an amatuer gunsmith? If so maybe the reamer was run in to far causing the shoulder to be blown forward a little to much so the die won't work. If you have a bump guage measure the distance on a new factory case and one fired in your gun. This will tell you if the shoulder got blow forward to much. Keep in mind factory brass is sized on the small side of the SAAMI spec so it will fit in any rifle. Not sure how you interpret the number you get. Does new unfired factory brass chamber easily?

In Italy, there are no amateur gunsmiths; it's a profession strictly regulated by our laws. You can't just improvise as a gunsmith; you need a license to assemble or modify a weapon.

Lapua 6,5x47 cases headspace are 1.455" measured with Hornady gauge and Mitutoyo.
Fired cases on my rifle chamber are 1.471".
If I make a ligth touch with shell holder and die can't resize the case for fall down the bolt without any pression.
Again the caliber standard are CIP and not SAAMI.

Thanks

 

[Bora72]

If you know your chamber is short, you either need to trim the bottom of the die a few thousandths (most risky), or get a set of negative shell holders (preferred, less expensive than messing up the die). I took a set of Derraco comp shell holders and ground them all down to the "zero" level (0.125"), then I pulled the zero and ground the rest another -0.0006", pulled one, ground the remaining another 0.0006", pulled one... until done. You need a good surface grinder for this, but when done it will work with all your dies - yes, you said you only load one caliber, but...

Hi, I only reload one caliber and one rifle, but I'll still do the shell holder test.

Thanks

 

[Bora72]

Don't worry about your English...at least you speak it! Most of us can't speak more than one language...and some barely that.

I promise I use Google Translate to make sure my concept is understandable.
Sometimes it is, but not always, and some terms are distorted, but it should make you smile, not laugh...

Congratulations from everyone in the family on your signatures!

Ciao!

 

[Bora72]

Been using a Rock Chucker for 42+ years, tried a Co-Ax, currently have a zero press Gen 1 but find myself loading on the RC 90% of the time. Dillon 750 for bulk loading 223 & 9mm. I’ve had the same press since I started, I also have a spare for the day mine has an issue if that day ever comes. That being said I think all three of the presses you mentioned would do you a good job and the advice that’s been given my remedy the issue you are having.

Hi,
I'd also like to buy a second press; the Zero is too expensive, but I'll put the shell holder advice into practice.

 

[Bora72]

If it's a shoulder bump issue you will have to trim the top of the shell holder or bottom of die. A new press wont make any difference as you are already mating the die to the shell holder. A belt sander, a piece of sand paper and your fingers for down pressure or even a grinder will work. You will only need to take the thickness of 2 pieces of paper off to get things to work and it doesnt need to be square.
Nothing says you need to kiss the die with the shell holder so having a bit of clearance wont bother a thing.
If you have the same problem after taking some off your shell holder its either a base diameter issue or a trim/neck length issue. Or you are seating bullets into the rifling.

Thanks for the advice, I think it's really a headspace issue, we'll see...

 

[Bora72]

I have a couple of questions.

Do you have clickers with this brass in your gun (does it get stuck when trying to open the bolt)? What is the base diameter of the case as fired, after sizing, and when new (measured just above the extractor groove)?

No I don't have clickers.
A the web the measure of fired case are .472"
Resized are about .471"

Is the sizing die screwed all the way down such that when the press ram is all the way up it contacts the die? You mentioned minimum camover but I assume you mean maximum sizing, minimum shoulder datum length when the case is sized?

Have you verified the headspace on the rifle you are shooting?

Yes the die is screwed in completely and I checked the headspace.

What case lube are you using and how do you apply it?

Redding Imperial Wax

Barring something noticeably wrong with your press, it most likely isn't the issue. You have a die/rifle/process issue to address.

Cheers,
Toby

I hope..

 

[dellet]

The problem is the die. 6.5x47 is not a SAAMI approved cartridge, even if it was, often SAAMI and CIP do not agree on sizes. CIP does not have a datum line to measure the headspace dimension.

This is often a problem when rifles are sent to Europe and need proof testing. The rifles fail due to chamber dimensions being wrong

 

[M-61]

Hi, I'm having a problem with a Redding press

What is the problem?

 

[M-61]

Which Redding press you using?

Comparing
Rock chucker
T7
Big boss ii
Mec
Zero

All were equal in terms of concentricity and shoulder bump.

The press has nothing to do with concentricity nor shoulder bump.
I’ll add the press has nothing to do with accuracy either.

 

[M-61]

Barring something noticeably wrong with your press, it most likely isn't the issue.

What would you consider a ‘noticeable’ problem? Physically broken?

 

[M-61]

The problem I'm having with the press is that when I press firmly on the lever, the piston flexes.
I measured this with a dial gauge

That is impressive.