Action wrench Port vs Rear

[4xforfun]

Any preferances. I have a wrench for my BAT actions...for left port actions (RB - LP). I need to get one for a RH remmy. What is prefered....a port enrty or a rear entry wrench.

Thanks

 

[BoydAllen]

Would this be for removal of a factory barrel? If it is, then the answer may be neither. For that, a wrench that clamps around the outside of the action may be a better option. There are a couple of options. This is an example.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/710783/wheeler-engineering-action-wrench-2-remington-700-savage-110

 

[timeout]

This is a timely subject for myself also. I am nearing a tear down on a factory barrel. Boyd, will the action wrench that you linked to mar the receiver? I am making an assumption from your post that factory barrels are cranked down to the max without any never sieze applied to the threads?
I have read where Alf likes the port entry wrenchs. Perhaps he will also chime in.
Also, here is a link to another wrench made by a forum member. I tend to gravitate towards Boyd's choices quite often. He has a wealth of experience and knowledge.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3762965.0

 

[BoydAllen]

I suggest that you do some research, on more than one site,on removing factory barrels. The type that I showed is similar to one that a local gunsmith uses to remove factory barrels. From what I have seen, Remington uses something on their threads that makes barrel removal a lot harder. Some use a measured amount of heat to reduce the amount of torque to lesson the effort needed to remove factory barrels from Remington actions. Of course that should be carefully done, so as not to affect the heat treatment of the receiver.

 

[4xforfun]

Not for a factory BBL. It will be for a switch barrel setup. The Spencer tube that is on it now was set back 2 years ago, so it shouldn't be to tight.

Thanks,
Tod

 

[Uthink Uknow]

I would never use a port entry wrench. You run a good chance of messing up the port. The torque is distributed along the action running the risk of adding torque where you don't want it. I haven't seen the barrel a proper rear entry wrench couldn't remove. Since Boyd asked about the possibility it is a factory barrel, which can be a tough challenge. Let's run that assumption one step farther. Are you planning on putting that barrel back on? If not, chuck the barrel in the lathe and make a partial parting cut slightly ahead of the face of the action. This will remove a lot of the stress and the barrel comes off quite easily then. Of course, you pitch the barrel then.

 

[BoydAllen]

Actually, if you are careful, I think that either would do the job. Just make sure that whatever one you use has a notch so as not to put any load on the top of the guide rail. If you look at some pictures you can see what I am talking about. I have a rear entry wrench that was relatively inexpensive, and has a hex to accommodate a socket. It seems to work fine for barrels that were not factory installed. Changing a barrel like the one that you mentioned should be no big deal, just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. For my benchrest rifle, that has a Viper action, and no guide rail, I like the rear entry wrench that I purchased from Kelblys. It comes with a T handle. Since my action has an anodized aluminum body (with steel inserts) I prefer not to risk nicking up the loading port. On the other hand, a friend who has a similar rifle, with a stainless action, uses an aluminum port entry wrench, that has a built in handle, with good results. The first time that he swapped a barrel, he brought it over to my place, and I showed him how I do it, with his wrench. It worked just fine.

 

[alf]

As I've said before, I prefer the ease of a port wrench, and all mine are so configured. I've got 'em/had 'em for Pandas, Kodiaks, Halls, Bats and 700s.

I did buy a rear entry once for something(my Bat I think), as I was going to fart around with a torque wrench. The damn socket wouldn't fit because of the stock height by the tang. I sold it and bought a port style, and skipped the torque hassles.

From what I've gathered, the rear's do have a chance of twisting a 700 with a tight barrel. Or another possibility, you can actually elongate the front hole trying to remove a tight barrel from the ones that wrap around the front of the action.

I have removed quite a few factory 700's with my Davidson port wrench. Kroil and a heat gun are your friends.

 

[wvscorpio]

For changing barrels for a non-factory application, either will work just fine, I use them both. With the side entry, you have less chance of nicking the stock and no chance of marring the face of the barrel tennon. Having said that, I still prefer the rear entry(Piechota style) wrench with a T-style handle. The rear entry T wrench allows you to apply even concentric pressure right up front next to the tennon, decreasing the chance for any distortion to the action. When you insert it in your receiver just touch the face of the barrel tennon then back the wrench out just a bit to prevent marring the tennon face. BTW, a fellow member here pbike257 makes one of the best I've seen.

 

[Uthink Uknow]

PMA Tool now carries a stainless steel rear entry wrench. It looks classy but being stainless I doubt it would be strong enough for factory builts. If you are only using it for BR and competition rifles it should do the trick. It's stainless and looks nice. Hang one next to pbike257's rugged black one and you are on the way to being cool.

 

[SmokinJoe]

I would also highly recommend pbike's wrenches; they are rugged heat treated steel. If removal is too stubborn for that, then you need the Wheeler Engineering clamp-on wrench & some shims to protect the finish. If it's that tight, I think I would just do the releif cut as mentioned above because you're probably gonna mess up that barrel trying to get it off anyway, unless you have a real hoss of a barrel vise.