The rods are even more important on the rem. Because it's more warped. In a straight race way the bushings would produce the same results as the rods. Assuming they were concentric bushings. The more warp in the race way the more important a solid rod is.
What do we do with those 5R actions?![]()
.701-.703" .0005" increments, 12" long. Warner Tool allowed for additional sizes beyond those last time the group order was done.Would it be .700 - .705 rods
Warner wanted a minimum of 6 sets. I believe Wheeler said JGS made him buy 6 sets for an order. I'd be in for a set so that's probably 3 so far.Id like a set
Makes one of us.What you're saying makes sense.
Make it twoMakes one of us.
That's what I'm sayin...Make it twoRemington's commonly are different front to back. With a full sized mandrel you'll often be tight in the back and loose up front or it'll fit up front but won't go through in the back. On bad ones I'll still use PTG parallel bushings and the .500" mandrel. Just do the best you can with what you've got in hand. For what trued Remington's are typically used for these days how much does it really matter?
The reason it works is because the reciever bore is not straight. In the rare case you find one dead straight, what you say is true. I know how to check how square the threads, action face, and lug seats are to the bolt bore. I'm not theorizing on the internet. I arrived at the rods after trying every method in this thread and measuringthe work. I dont even true Remingtons anymore so I dont care how people do it. Problem is a lot of guys are making then worse by how they indicate and hold them.That's what I'm sayin...
Last factory Rem I did, RR series from the last of the pre-bankruptcy ones.
Customer changed chambering to magnum boltface, and wanted an M16 extractor so I measured for a custom bolt.
Raceway was .002 larger behind the lug abutments than the rear of the action.
If I were to slide a slip-fit mandrel of the smaller dimension through it, chuck it up between centers- then put an indicator on the side of the receiver just behind the ring and push on the other side...it's going to move.
No different than if there were tool pressure from single-pointing, or facing the receiver ring.
Sorry, I ain't buying it.
Aaron before you did any truing work did you check how much runout you had then check how your truing job did after?