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Action Truing Jig Help

A race way doesn't need to be straight. The solid rod will find the center of a warped hole. Bushing rods wont. The bolt sees what the rod sees. Now if you relive the center of the bolt then the bushing setups would work better. You never force a solid rod, use one with a slip fit. The tapered bushing will index on the edge of the race way. In the front that's a chamfer around the lugs, at the rear it's the bridge which is even worse and cocks the bushing. Tapered bushings are even worse than the non tapered bushings. The bolt is a solid rod so that's what you want mimic. Unlike chambering, we care about all the area the rod is in. I'm not in a spot I could draw this out or it would be real obvious
 
What you're saying makes sense. I can see why just a rod would be better on a good action with a tight bolt. Bat's have just over a thou of bolt clearance.

A crap rem 700 has enough clearance to house the romanian army.. so the contact points are pretty limited...

I'm just thinking out loud. This isn't something I've put much though into; I never expected to tune up an old rem.
 
The rods are even more important on the rem. Because it's more warped. In a straight race way the bushings would produce the same results as the rods. Assuming they were concentric bushings. The more warp in the race way the more important a solid rod is.
 
The rods are even more important on the rem. Because it's more warped. In a straight race way the bushings would produce the same results as the rods. Assuming they were concentric bushings. The more warp in the race way the more important a solid rod is.

I believe you.. I'll have to get my drafting pad and pencil out tomorrow and draw it.
 
Would it be .700 - .705 rods
.701-.703" .0005" increments, 12" long. Warner Tool allowed for additional sizes beyond those last time the group order was done.

On a rare occasion you might use a .7035" but even then most of the time it'll go in the front but won't go in the back (Remington). I've never used smaller than .701. Under .701" I have a .699" full mandrel and .700-.7005" bushings and none of those have ever been touched. If you use a .705" raceway reamer to open up for an over-sized bolt you would just use the reamer to indicate.

Why not reach out to Warner as well and see if he'd do another run?
 
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I think my sets went from 701 to 7035 in half thou increments. 6 rods, .0002 for diam and straightness was the spec. I want to say they were pre hardened s7. They were 400 a set. I had one set made for bats those were 90 each. But who knows what they run now
 
Makes one of us.
Make it two :) Remington's commonly are different front to back. With a full sized mandrel you'll often be tight in the back and loose up front or it'll fit up front but won't go through in the back. On bad ones I'll still use PTG parallel bushings and the .500" mandrel. Just do the best you can with what you've got in hand. For what trued Remington's are typically used for these days how much does it really matter?
 
Make it two :) Remington's commonly are different front to back. With a full sized mandrel you'll often be tight in the back and loose up front or it'll fit up front but won't go through in the back. On bad ones I'll still use PTG parallel bushings and the .500" mandrel. Just do the best you can with what you've got in hand. For what trued Remington's are typically used for these days how much does it really matter?
That's what I'm sayin...
Last factory Rem I did, RR series from the last of the pre-bankruptcy ones.
Customer changed chambering to magnum boltface, and wanted an M16 extractor so I measured for a custom bolt.

Raceway was .002 larger behind the lug abutments than the rear of the action.
If I were to slide a slip-fit mandrel of the smaller dimension through it, chuck it up between centers- then put an indicator on the side of the receiver just behind the ring and push on the other side...it's going to move.
No different than if there were tool pressure from single-pointing, or facing the receiver ring.

Sorry, I ain't buying it.
 
That's what I'm sayin...
Last factory Rem I did, RR series from the last of the pre-bankruptcy ones.
Customer changed chambering to magnum boltface, and wanted an M16 extractor so I measured for a custom bolt.

Raceway was .002 larger behind the lug abutments than the rear of the action.
If I were to slide a slip-fit mandrel of the smaller dimension through it, chuck it up between centers- then put an indicator on the side of the receiver just behind the ring and push on the other side...it's going to move.
No different than if there were tool pressure from single-pointing, or facing the receiver ring.

Sorry, I ain't buying it.
The reason it works is because the reciever bore is not straight. In the rare case you find one dead straight, what you say is true. I know how to check how square the threads, action face, and lug seats are to the bolt bore. I'm not theorizing on the internet. I arrived at the rods after trying every method in this thread and measuringthe work. I dont even true Remingtons anymore so I dont care how people do it. Problem is a lot of guys are making then worse by how they indicate and hold them.
 
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I find that the RR actions with a barcode next to the SN are the best. This is the most recent one I did and not only was the raceway pretty straight, the threads were true and inline with the raceway within about 5 tenths which is good enough for me to not bother truing. All I did on this was the face (about 0.0006 OOR) and the integral lugs (about the same).

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Aaron before you did any truing work did you check how much runout you had then check how your truing job did after?
 
Aaron before you did any truing work did you check how much runout you had then check how your truing job did after?

This wasn't an action anyone cared to put a lot of time or money into. The lug contact is really good, so all I wanted to do was clean up the face.
 
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