I run multiple different shouldered barrels on my TL3 actions, Just clamp the barrel in a vise, action wrench to unscrew the barrel, screw on the new barrel and torque to spec. Takes about 5 minutes. I leave the scope on the gun when swapping barrels. Each barrel has its own point of impact but is very repeatable where it hits once torqued on. I can dial in my offset on the scope, check zero (usually within 0.1 mil) then shoot. If it's just a range day often I won't even bother to check zero. Just dial my known dope and make corrections on the fly if needed to get hits.
The KRG Bravo has a third screw that is tightened after the action screws are snug (any of the settings mentioned above). The third screw prevents the need to bed anything. No worries about the tang, IMO. In fact, it would be a world-class challenge to bed a KRG Bravo, since you can see the recoil lug from underneath the stock.
It's 1/2 inch behind the tang, on the chassis. On the KRG website, they specify 65 in-lbs for the front and rear action screws, and 45 in-lbs for the chassis screw that locks it all down. This info is in the on-line section of their site under instructions for installation.I know I'm blind....I'm gonna have to find that 3rd screw.
It's 1/2 inch behind the tang, on the chassis. On the KRG website, they specify 65 in-lbs for the front and rear action screws, and 45 in-lbs for the chassis screw that locks it all down. This info is in the on-line section of their site under instructions for installation.