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Action Torque Specs

I have a Bighorn Origin action that's going in a KRG Bravo stock. I am completely lost on what the torque spec would be for this action. It has aluminum pillars.

Thanks,
Don Dunlap
 
I know a guy that over torqued the action and broke loose glued in pillars.
J
 
The Bighorn is a R700 footprint if I recall. That means that the tang might be relatively unsupported in an unbedded chassis. In that case, I'd go with Dusty's recommendation and put some reasonable torque on the front (say 40-50 lb-in) and snug on the rear (25-30 lb-in).
 
On this particular stock/chassis the front action screw is captured and I don't have a long bit to use on my Wheeler Fat Wrench. So I tightened it by hand with a long Allen wrench, fairly tight. I put 25 inch pounds on the rear. It has front and rear aluminum pillars.
 
I run multiple different shouldered barrels on my TL3 actions, Just clamp the barrel in a vise, action wrench to unscrew the barrel, screw on the new barrel and torque to spec. Takes about 5 minutes. I leave the scope on the gun when swapping barrels. Each barrel has its own point of impact but is very repeatable where it hits once torqued on. I can dial in my offset on the scope, check zero (usually within 0.1 mil) then shoot. If it's just a range day often I won't even bother to check zero. Just dial my known dope and make corrections on the fly if needed to get hits.
 
I run multiple different shouldered barrels on my TL3 actions, Just clamp the barrel in a vise, action wrench to unscrew the barrel, screw on the new barrel and torque to spec. Takes about 5 minutes. I leave the scope on the gun when swapping barrels. Each barrel has its own point of impact but is very repeatable where it hits once torqued on. I can dial in my offset on the scope, check zero (usually within 0.1 mil) then shoot. If it's just a range day often I won't even bother to check zero. Just dial my known dope and make corrections on the fly if needed to get hits.

It's pretty damn obvious he is talking about action screws. Not the barrel.
 
The KRG Bravo has a third screw that is tightened after the action screws are snug (any of the settings mentioned above). The third screw prevents the need to bed anything. No worries about the tang, IMO. In fact, it would be a world-class challenge to bed a KRG Bravo, since you can see the recoil lug from underneath the stock.
 
The KRG Bravo has a third screw that is tightened after the action screws are snug (any of the settings mentioned above). The third screw prevents the need to bed anything. No worries about the tang, IMO. In fact, it would be a world-class challenge to bed a KRG Bravo, since you can see the recoil lug from underneath the stock.

I know I'm blind....I'm gonna have to find that 3rd screw.
 
On my HS Precision Stock it has a aluminum bed that I bedded with Devcon steel bedding , recommended 65 inch pounds on both action screws . Shoots tight , rock solid .
 
I know I'm blind....I'm gonna have to find that 3rd screw.
It's 1/2 inch behind the tang, on the chassis. On the KRG website, they specify 65 in-lbs for the front and rear action screws, and 45 in-lbs for the chassis screw that locks it all down. This info is in the on-line section of their site under instructions for installation.
 
It's 1/2 inch behind the tang, on the chassis. On the KRG website, they specify 65 in-lbs for the front and rear action screws, and 45 in-lbs for the chassis screw that locks it all down. This info is in the on-line section of their site under instructions for installation.


Thank you Jim.

Don Dunlap
 
I have a couple Barnard P Actions in V-Block Bedding 65-70 in. lbs.

Rem. SA 700 on Pillars 60-65 in. lbs. These are Palma and F-Class Rifles .

All Barrels floated ( no Bedding under Barrel ).

Been working for years ???
 

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