• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Action strength

If i were going to build a long range gun on a budget i would use a Remington clone so many out there. Kelblys comes to mind very reasonable and it will do the job ........ jim
 
I really don't think you will save money if you need to true your action anyway. The custom actions are mostly not needing truing and to me worth it. I like Mauser type extractors for hunting, I have found the push feed much smoother when loading one bullet at a time at a bench or punching paper.
 
The CZ will be plenty strong for what you want to do. But I agree with whats been said. The biggest problem I see is the set trigger. That alone will prevent the rifle from shooting to its potential. And don't think your doing anything new or different. Tons of Mausers have been used to build all kinds of rifles. But there are reasons you dont see them on target rifles anymore.
PS. All you need to do with a spring loaded ejector is trim the spring untill it just plops the cases out it a nice little pile. And if your dies match you chamber, it will not be able to cock the case in the chamber. The 6br will not produce enough torque to be worried about. If you are still worried, bed the sides of the recoil lug.
 
I hate to rain on your parade, but i use both flat bottom (Panda) with both a plunger and a static ejector. I also use Bat round bottom with a Plunger ejector and it doesn't mean a rats read end both shoot better than i can. Torque is not an issue, recoil lugs are not an issue, but triggers are. When you get all done with your CZ come around and we will go head to head, might even make you a little wager on the out come .... bring cash LOL ...... Seriously look into a Rem. clone, I did and they are very good, i can't see the difference in accuracy they are right there with the best. The big plus is you can get stocks, triggers and mounts for them and at a very reasonable cost. No one is trying to bust your bubble but they are giving you sound advice, you can put lipstick on a pig and it's still a pig.... jim
 
If you are going to shoot in competition I would find out what the weight limits are for the class you want to shoot in. You shouldn't need a 1.25" straight barrel. I assume this means 1.25" at both ends. Look on this website at guns of the week and see what the best shooters use for barrel taper. You don't want a gun that is front end heavy.

From the Kreiger website:
#17 Heavy Varmint Contour barrel 28" long weighs 7.0#.
 
Webster said:
If you are going to shoot in competition I would find out what the weight limits are for the class you want to shoot in. You shouldn't need a 1.25" straight barrel. I assume this means 1.25" at both ends. Look on this website at guns of the week and see what the best shooters use for barrel taper. You don't want a gun that is front end heavy.

From the Kreiger website:
#17 Heavy Varmint Contour barrel 28" long weighs 7.0#.

I never plan on shooting in competition FWIW.
 
Give the CZ a try. You never know what is going to work if someone competent puts it together and drives it. Examples are Jeff Mottern winning at the IBS Nationals in 2012 with a falling block action and Doug Rumbaugh winning in 2013 with a 6BR Sako, both built by Mark King.
 
I'm not surprised by a Sako,at all. The falling block? That's quite an accomplishment.
 
GSPV said:
I'm not surprised by a Sako,at all. The falling block? That's quite an accomplishment.

The amount of thought and work that went into that result would have to be seen to be believed plus the guy driving it and everything else were first rate. But I guess the point that has not not emphasized enough for the OP is that you can get pretty much anything to shoot well if you are willing to spend the money for some first rate gun-smithing and tuning. But there are plenty of other threads on this forum comparing the cost of a first rate custom action to the final cost of getting something less expensive to start that will shoot as well as the custom action. The OP says he would buy a Panda if he had the dollars and that would be an excellent choice given his well-founded ideas about what makes a good action. Stolle thought the same way and built the Panda. I guess the question is whether he would end up spending as much to get the CZ to shoot as well as a Panda as he would have buying the Panda in the first place.
 
TonyR said:
GSPV said:
I'm not surprised by a Sako,at all. The falling block? That's quite an accomplishment.

The amount of thought and work that went into that result would have to be seen to be believed plus the guy driving it and everything else were first rate. But I guess the point that has not not emphasized enough for the OP is that you can get pretty much anything to shoot well if you are willing to spend the money for some first rate gun-smithing and tuning. But there are plenty of other threads on this forum comparing the cost of a first rate custom action to the final cost of getting something less expensive to start that will shoot as well as the custom action. The OP says he would buy a Panda if he had the dollars and that would be an excellent choice given his well-founded ideas about what makes a good action. Stolle thought the same way and built the Panda. I guess the question is whether he would end up spending as much to get the CZ to shoot as well as a Panda as he would have buying the Panda in the first place.

To be honest, I am at a crossroads of what I want to do. The CZ is nice because it has features I like and I have a heavy laminate stock for it, however it wouldn't be an ideal hunting gun. The Panda is a very nice action however I don't want a glue in stock, and it's expensive. I also don't know about what stocks accept the panda action. And I have to buy a trigger. I am also looking at a savage target action, which comes with a decent trigger, has a decent amount of stocks, and accepts pre fit barrels, however, I can't use the heavy 1.25" diameter barrels with the barrel nut. Decisions, decisions.
 
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.
 
DocEd said:
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.

I agree. Who said the Panda was strictly a glue in action? And who said the Salvage had a descent trigger? ;)
 
Surgikill the Panda doesn't have to be glued in. Mine is bedded and pillared just like my BATS. Everybody I know that shoots 1000 yard has them pillared and bedded. You also don't need a full 1.250 barrel. Go 1.250 for 5 to 6 inches and taper to .940 or more. Most the barrel companies have a taper similar to this.
 
A few more points worth making and repeating:
It has long been my understanding that running ones shots is the dominant shooting style in 600 and 1,000 yd benchrest. A set trigger would be a serious impediment to this. To a great degree, the availability of suitable triggers is a major factor in action selection, for benchrest rifles. Unless you have spent some time behind a real benchrest rifle, a great deal of this will not be understood. Perhaps someone can remedy that for you. If you live near Fresno, I would be glad to. Another thing on the spring plunger ejectors...most all of us tune them so that cases just clear the action. It is something that I learned to do on my first Remington more than 30 years ago.
 
Erik Cortina said:
DocEd said:
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.

I agree. Who said the Panda was strictly a glue in action? And who said the Salvage had a descent trigger? ;)

The panda's I have seen have all been glue in. I came here to learn, and I am learning. Sorry an 18 year old kid can't afford to put together a 6k rifle with absolutely every best component out there.
 
BoydAllen said:
A few more points worth making and repeating:
It has long been my understanding that running ones shots is the dominant shooting style in 600 and 1,000 yd benchrest. A set trigger would be a serious impediment to this. To a great degree, the availability of suitable triggers is a major factor in action selection, for benchrest rifles. Unless you have spent some time behind a real benchrest rifle, a great deal of this will not be understood. Perhaps someone can remedy that for you. If you live near Fresno, I would be glad to. Another thing on the spring plunger ejectors...most all of us tune them so that cases just clear the action. It is something that I learned to do on my first Remington more than 30 years ago.

Just curious as to why the set trigger is bad? I know some people say that it increases lock time, but from my understanding, the only people that really care about lock time are people that shoot off hand. Is it because it introduces unwanted vibration into the gun? And I don't own a bolt action rifle with a plunger style ejector, so I wouldn't have worked on any.

Like I said before, I am not going to be using this gun to punch paper all day or compete.
 
Surgikill said:
Erik Cortina said:
DocEd said:
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.

I agree. Who said the Panda was strictly a glue in action? And who said the Salvage had a descent trigger? ;)

The panda's I have seen have all been glue in. I came here to learn, and I am learning. Sorry an 18 year old kid can't afford to put together a 6k rifle with absolutely every best component out there.

And we have all been trying to teach you, but you argue with everyone that tries.

Your first step should be to admit that you don't know.
 
If one spends some time shooting over wind flags, to be able to shoot more consistently, and better in the wind, you will run into those situations where a number of shots may be fired while a condition holds. Whether this takes place at a match, or simply when shooting for fun, the problem is the same.

Many shooters, not having used wind flags, do as I used to. They take a shot, gaze at it through their rifle or spotting scope, give it some thought, reload, and reaim at a leisurely pace, and then shoot another, all the time blissfully unaware of what the wind has been doing between rifle and target. Driving 3-4 4' stakes in the ground, with surveyors tape tied to their tops, between the shooter and his target can change all of that. Soon one learns of the close linkage between where shots go and what the wind is doing, and in trying to gain the most from this knowledge, attempt to shoot as quickly as possible when conditions favor that approach. Under those circumstances, a set trigger is an impediment.

Also, I am pretty sure that when it comes to fine accuracy, from the bench, that the vibration created by a set trigger would not be a good thing.
 
Erik Cortina said:
Surgikill said:
Erik Cortina said:
DocEd said:
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.

I agree. Who said the Panda was strictly a glue in action? And who said the Salvage had a descent trigger? ;)

The panda's I have seen have all been glue in. I came here to learn, and I am learning. Sorry an 18 year old kid can't afford to put together a 6k rifle with absolutely every best component out there.

And we have all been trying to teach you, but you argue with everyone that tries.

Your first step should be to admit that you don't know.

The problem I am having is that alot of the stuff doesn't make sense with what some people are saying. I am not arguing, I am questioning.

For example: You say, get a krieger barrel, a remington action, and a jewel trigger. Now, I don't argue that the indicated setup will not shoot well, but what makes it a better setup than having the same components with a savage action. I know the savage will cost more, but it also allows a person to change a barrel with another prefit barrel and it has the option of a left port, along with a floating bolt face and a more rigid bolt handle. I am not arguing with the fact that the setup that you indicated will shoot well, I am just curious as to why you say it is better than every other action out there. Just because everybody uses it does not make it a "good" action in my eyes. It may have a ton of aftermarket capability, but does that make it "good"?
 
DocEd said:
You seriously need to do a ton more research. Less typing and more reading. It seems as though you know very little about the different actions out there.

This is SOUND and cheap ADVICE....
And not to insult you completely, I'm a Savage Fan, I own 1 Hall action.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
168,093
Messages
2,247,265
Members
80,995
Latest member
freitagsven
Back
Top