Action strength

[Eddie Harren]

:The first thing to do, when you find yourself in a hole, is to stop digging." Will Rogers.

 

[BoydAllen]

This is more than a bit unconventional so if that bothers someone, you might want to pass this up. I shoot left handed , because of a dominant eye situation. It is not a problem. As a result, I have considerable experience shooting right bolt, right port actions left handed. I also have some experience with Left bolt, left port, and my main bench rifle is left bolt, right port. Getting to the point, if a rifle is primarily to be shot from a bench or bipod, and the selection of actions is to be from those available as factory rifles, I think that there is something to be said for a right handed shooter opting for a left bolt, left port action. I say this because it would be the equivalent of me shooting a right, right left handed, which I find to be quite handy, for bench work. The trigger hand never leaves the stock, and all the bolt and loading work is handled by the other. This is particularly advantageous if one is using a magazine, but it also works very well when single loading. I am sure that this will cause some disagreement, which is fine, but getting a bit in front of that, I would ask how many right handed shooters have much experience with this setup, from bench or bipod. My guess is not many.

 

[Surgikill]

:The first thing to do, when you find yourself in a hole, is to stop digging." Will Rogers.

Please Doc, if you are looking to get into an argument look somewhere else. First you harass me by PM and proceed to block me and now you feel the need to add non-contributing minutiae to this thread.

 

[Erik Cortina]

You first tell me you have never used a left port, and then you act like an expert and try to tell me that it is not only useful in competition.

A hunting gun with RBLP is not ideal, too much body movement required. I can bet dollars against spent primers that your bench technique is not good enough to be able to shoot like you described.

I agree with the first statement, but I have seen it used outside of bench competitions, and it seems to work well.

And could you help explain how the left port requires more body movement? To me, with a right port, I have to pull the bolt back with my left hand so I can catch the brass before it hits the dirt, and then I have to pick up a piece of brass with my right hand and load it, and then I have to transfer my left hand back over and return my right hand to the bolt to close it.

Ok, the left port requires more movement because you have to open bolt with right hand, get brass with left, load with left, then close bolt with right and left hand goes back to squeeze bag, right hand back to trigger.

RBRP, open bolt with right hand, catch brass with right hand, load with right hand, close bolt, and back to trigger. Left hand never moved.

Shooting prone is even worse as body weight has to be shifted every time you switch from right to left hand and vice versa.

 

[Raythemanroe]

:The first thing to do, when you find yourself in a hole, is to stop digging." Will Rogers.

Please Doc, if you are looking to get into an argument look somewhere else. First you harass me by PM and proceed to block me and now you feel the need to add non-contributing minutiae to this thread.

Umm, the argument starts when you ask a question and the only right answer is your own!

 

[Surgikill]

You first tell me you have never used a left port, and then you act like an expert and try to tell me that it is not only useful in competition.

A hunting gun with RBLP is not ideal, too much body movement required. I can bet dollars against spent primers that your bench technique is not good enough to be able to shoot like you described.

I agree with the first statement, but I have seen it used outside of bench competitions, and it seems to work well.

And could you help explain how the left port requires more body movement? To me, with a right port, I have to pull the bolt back with my left hand so I can catch the brass before it hits the dirt, and then I have to pick up a piece of brass with my right hand and load it, and then I have to transfer my left hand back over and return my right hand to the bolt to close it.

Ok, the left port requires more movement because you have to open bolt with right hand, get brass with left, load with left, then close bolt with right and left hand goes back to squeeze bag, right hand back to trigger.

RBRP, open bolt with right hand, catch brass with right hand, load with right hand, close bolt, and back to trigger. Left hand never moved.

Shooting prone is even worse as body weight has to be shifted every time you switch from right to left hand and vice versa.

I can see how it would be a hindrance in prone because you would have to come out of your position to work with the brass, seeing as I usually support the butt of the gun under my shoulder with my left hand.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

If your main purpose of the rifle is hunting, anything will do. Build what you want. The cz will be just fine. The only issue I see is the straight 1.25 barrel. I wouldnt go any heavier then a remington varmint taper on a hunting rifle. There is absolutely no benifit in going heavier. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get it to shoot under 1 moa with a decent barrel. Now, if your wanting to shoot .25 moa, you better listen to the advise given.

 

[Geronimo Jim]

Everyone gets advice............only the wise profit from it.

 

[LHSmith]

Two things I learned from this thread:
1/ My Remington 700's have a "pushbutton extractor"....and after using them for 45 years, I don't know which button I haven't been pushing to make them work. Thank you OP.
2/ Doc Ed is a mind-reader.

and my 2 cents..... listen to z-fasts advice....please.

 

[Surgikill]

If your main purpose of the rifle is hunting, anything will do. Build what you want. The cz will be just fine. The only issue I see is the straight 1.25 barrel. I wouldnt go any heavier then a remington varmint taper on a hunting rifle. There is absolutely no benifit in going heavier. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get it to shoot under 1 moa with a decent barrel. Now, if your wanting to shoot .25 moa, you better listen to the advise given.

What would you consider a varmint taper, and why would you not use something heavier? Just curious. Just to clarify, I want to get the whole setup together for about 1500, no optics included. Money is the only thing restricting me from buying an aftermarket action. To LHS, I am going to be taking zfasts advice.

If anybody is wondering, I am thinking about getting a savage target action, most likely RBRP, a bell and carlson medalist tactical stock, and A krieger barrel or a pac nor drop in. Any thoughts?

 

[mr45man]

OK as a CZ owner i can say this, mine is a POS. compaired to all my other guns.
Although it shoots fairly good, it does not feed from the mag, is ruff as a cob
and would never even dream of spending money to re barrel it.

Get a savage if its within your budget.you will be better off in the long run.
John H.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

If your main purpose of the rifle is hunting, anything will do. Build what you want. The cz will be just fine. The only issue I see is the straight 1.25 barrel. I wouldnt go any heavier then a remington varmint taper on a hunting rifle. There is absolutely no benifit in going heavier. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get it to shoot under 1 moa with a decent barrel. Now, if your wanting to shoot .25 moa, you better listen to the advise given.

What would you consider a varmint taper, and why would you not use something heavier? Just curious. Just to clarify, I want to get the whole setup together for about 1500, no optics included. Money is the only thing restricting me from buying an aftermarket action. To LHS, I am going to be taking zfasts advice.

If anybody is wondering, I am thinking about getting a savage target action, most likely RBRP, a bell and carlson medalist tactical stock, and A krieger barrel or a pac nor drop in. Any thoughts?

Now you are talking. I have had very good experience with Mcgowen prefits. I think a Rem taper is 1.2 for a couple inches then tapers down to .900 ish then ends up around .800 at the muzzle. You want to stick with a varmint taper. Heavier barrels will take more rounds to heat up but also take longer to cool. There wont be any accuracy gain going heavier, just a weight gain. I'd hate to carry a riflle with a barrel that heavy. Also, I'd pass on the tactical stock and go with a more traditional varmint type stock, tactical is good prone, but not the best for off hand. A varmint stock will be more versatile. Why not just buy a Savage long range precision varminter? It is what your describing, and after you shoot the barrel out, just order a prefit. By then you'll have learned a lot and will know what you want.

 

[Surgikill]

If your main purpose of the rifle is hunting, anything will do. Build what you want. The cz will be just fine. The only issue I see is the straight 1.25 barrel. I wouldnt go any heavier then a remington varmint taper on a hunting rifle. There is absolutely no benifit in going heavier. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get it to shoot under 1 moa with a decent barrel. Now, if your wanting to shoot .25 moa, you better listen to the advise given.

What would you consider a varmint taper, and why would you not use something heavier? Just curious. Just to clarify, I want to get the whole setup together for about 1500, no optics included. Money is the only thing restricting me from buying an aftermarket action. To LHS, I am going to be taking zfasts advice.

If anybody is wondering, I am thinking about getting a savage target action, most likely RBRP, a bell and carlson medalist tactical stock, and A krieger barrel or a pac nor drop in. Any thoughts?

Now you are talking. I have had very good experience with Mcgowen prefits. I think a Rem taper is 1.2 for a couple inches then tapers down to .900 ish then ends up around .800 at the muzzle. You want to stick with a varmint taper. Heavier barrels will take more rounds to heat up but also take longer to cool. There wont be any accuracy gain going heavier, just a weight gain. I'd hate to carry a riflle with a barrel that heavy. Also, I'd pass on the tactical stock and go with a more traditional varmint type stock, tactical is good prone, but not the best for off hand. A varmint stock will be more versatile. Why not just buy a Savage long range precision varminter? It is what your describing, and after you shoot the barrel out, just order a prefit. By then you'll have learned a lot and will know what you want.

I only plan on shooting prone or off of sticks in a sitting position. This gun will most likely not be used on anything bigger than an antelope, and will mostly be used in longer ranges where shooting offhand would seem impractical. The state that I live in does not allow any centerfire rifle above 223 for hunting, and whenever I travel to hunt it is somewhere in the midwest or Texas. Seeing as this isnt't going to be just a hunting rifle I was going to either go with a straight taper of 1.2" because of the barrel nut, or go 1.2" to 1" at the muzzle. I am not opposed to the weight, and the extra material could take a little more heat at the bench. I need the adjustability of a cheekpiece and LOP. My LOP is extremely long and I have high cheekbones which ends up with a much lower cheekweld on the gun.

mr45man: Every factory has their duds. Each CZ I have shot shoots consistently under 1 moa, and my 308 is solid .5moa or under. Have you tried bedding the stock? The first thing I did was get a laminate from Richard's microfit and bed it with marinetex. The factory walnut stocks are nice and light, under a pound, but very flimsy. I would also recommend that you free float it. Doesn't take long at all. As for the mag issues I honestly have no idea. Mine feeds fine and it is very smooth. If you are using a small centerfire caliber such as a 222 or 223 some COALS will not fit within the magazine and the magazine has to be modified.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Sounds like your on your way. I suggest you handle a rifle with a barrel as heavy as you want. A friend has a 40x with a straight 1.25'', it is the most unbalanced, most awkward feeling thing. Bench rest guns with heavy barrels are balanced, your hunting rifle wont be. Have fun with it.

 

[LHSmith]

Yup, balance IS a big deal if you want accuracy. A straight unturned barrel ( no such thing as a 1.2 straight taper) will weigh ~ 3 more pounds than the next cataloged straight taper contour and ~5 1/2 lbs. more than the suggested Remington Varmint taper. Also, the longer it takes for a barrel to heat up, the longer it will take to cool down.

 

[Surgikill]

Yup, balance IS a big deal if you want accuracy. A straight unturned barrel ( no such thing as a 1.2 straight taper) will weigh ~ 3 more pounds than the next cataloged straight taper contour and ~5 1/2 lbs. more than the suggested Remington Varmint taper. Also, the longer it takes for a barrel to heat up, the longer it will take to cool down.

A 1.25" blank can be turned to 1.2" very easily. If I am not mistaken, in order to use the savage barrel nut on a Large shank action, it has to be around 1.12" If the barrel goes straight at 1.12" for 5 inches and then tapers to 1" at the muzzle the weight comes out to be around 6lbs for a 26 inch. The Remington taper is ~5.9 lbs.

 

[Rtheurer]

Oh wowser a Straight taper for a Hunting rifle.... that I have to move around and carry???.. I can say I did pretty much what you have been thinking of about ten years ago. The only exception is that it is a Short Remmy action in 223 made for shooting off a bench or ground Bipod for Priarie dogs. Which means driving to a dog town setting up my blanket or swivel bench. Unloading that over weight unbalanced pig and shooting for awhile. Then back into the truck. Coyotes.. Forget that. Walk and stalk on a speed goat... Forget that too. I agree with the other guys, Reminton Varmint Countour barrel will do every thing you need to do and as accuarate as any of the rest.. Even that Fat 1.2" Hog that I own. Its in a Choate stock as that was the cheapest At the time and I wanted to build a cheap Rat killer. Timney Trigger, Reminton action, Douglas 1.2" 25" barrel ( Fluted the Crap out of it too) All for around $1000 with some frugal not in a hurry to build purchases. Its nothing fancy just a Spare parts gun
Having owned this set up.. My suggestion to you is maybe rethink that Contour of barrel.

Looks cool... sucks when out in the feild hunting and it inhibits you from moving quickly or smoothly.

Hope this helps.
Russ T

 

[GSPV]

If you're varmint hunting prone or off sticks and you want to carry it, vs drive it, to your shoot, you'd best go with a RB/RP repeater with a varmint profile barrel and stock. Your CZ will be fine.

A 6 BR would be fine, but so would a host of other calibers.

Varmint hunting is a different animal from paper hunting from a bench.

 

[johara1]

I see this is turning into a joke, i was over on BRC. and there are and were nice used guns for sale in his price range. The cheap part is buying it, the hard part is feeding it. Watching the replays you make,i don't think you are interested in building one. I don't think you can afford it, and the components you list are bad to start with. I would buy a factory factory Savage LRPV. and bed it and have the barrel recrowned. I would get it in 6 BR 1-8 twist put a 36 power Weaver on it and it will do anything you want to do….. jim

 

[Surgikill]

I see this is turning into a joke, i was over on BRC. and there are and were nice used guns for sale in his price range. The cheap part is buying it, the hard part is feeding it. Watching the replays you make,i don't think you are interested in building one. I don't think you can afford it, and the components you list are bad to start with. I would buy a factory factory Savage LRPV. and bed it and have the barrel recrowned. I would get it in 6 BR 1-8 twist put a 36 power Weaver on it and it will do anything you want to do….. jim

Can you tell me what components are bad? The only issue I see is the stock.