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Action puller

LVLAaron

Gold $$ Contributor
Hindsight is always 20/20. Getting that AL Neuvo out of its bedding was a borderline nightmare. Probably in part to it's "extended" threaded nubs...

Anyway, need a tool make a tool. Here's my take on an action puller.

One mandrel is for a ~.700 raceway, the other is for the Neuvo profile.

Just some odds and ends I had around the shop. Needs a rotating flange nut, but so far so good.


23-07-16 16-20-05 0776.jpg
 
I think I'll float mine by wrapping tape around the thread extensions.

Regardless, I have had good luck with tightening long action screws in the action holes and then tapping them.

Not that I want to dissuade you from making a cool new tool......
 
I put two wraps of electrical tape around them... but they're still tight to get out. Since it's an aluminum action, I didn't want to do a whole lot of pounding/tapping on the pins and potentially mucking up the action threads.
 
I put two wraps of electrical tape around them... but they're still tight to get out. Since it's an aluminum action, I didn't want to do a whole lot of pounding/tapping on the pins and potentially mucking up the action threads.

Just thinking out loud here. IIRC, aluminum is supposed to be better at handling impact than steel. If that is so, would it be better to use an action puller on steel actions and then maybe a punch that is the diameter of the thread boss for aluminum?

Of course, the real weak point is the stock.

I am excited to try my aluminum Nuevo on my next LG. It will be a project for this winter. Biggest part will be the full inlet on a flat-top Wheeler LRB. My mill is the non-variable version of yours, and I have just enough travel to inlet a flat-top LRBR stock.
 
Do yourself a favor and get the Wilton 2 axis vice. If I had a mill I only did inletting on, that would be the only vice it ever saw .
 
Just thinking out loud here. IIRC, aluminum is supposed to be better at handling impact than steel. If that is so, would it be better to use an action puller on steel actions and then maybe a punch that is the diameter of the thread boss for aluminum?

It absorbs vibrations better... because it's softer. I like the idea of it coming straight up and out vs back and forth tappy tappy and possibly damaging the recoil lug surface.
 
I think tappy tappy separates the parts more quickly and with less movement and force than a straight pull. You aren't going to damage the lug, but if there isn't enough clearance in front of the lug you could damage the bedding.

To be honest, we have separated barrels actions from stocks using several different methods, and they all work with without damaging the bedding. I imagine with a puller, you could preload it then tap it to quickly pop the action loose. That just might be the best way of all the methods.....
 
I haven"t used it yet but I have one of these.
 
I haven"t used it yet but I have one of these.
I saw that... will it fit over a 1.55" action?
 

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