Facing a savage action. best method. 9/30/18 updated

[ridgeway]

Is there a reason for the radius of just personal preference?

I usually use a fairly fine point at an angle that draws the tool in to the cut so I don't get as much spring back.

I usually cut at kind of slow feeds and speeds too. I'm not in a hurry and it seems to work out in 4130 and carbon steel.

I'm going to go looking for a stub arbor because I don't have any junk barrels to sacrifice.

You asking about the tool bit nose radius?

 

[Dud]

Yes.

I've seen big radiused cutters around lathes and even used them when they were the sharp tool around but I never figured out what they do better than a pointed tool.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Yes.

I've seen big radiused cutters around lathes and even used them when they were the sharp tool around but I never figured out what they do better than a pointed tool.

They are less fragile and stay sharper longer when taking big cuts. If you dont have to go against a shoulder they are the best choice (like facing off an action)

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Matter of fact insert life is measured in years on a manual machine. This is the tool i use for facing

 

[ridgeway]

Seco makes good stuff. They still make holders like that? That's a nice insert, but to take advantage of the chip breaker... You need to take heavy cuts. I like inserts with more top rake on manual. There is more of an up sharp on top that makes nice cutting on a manual. There is a ton of stuff out there that works great...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Seco makes good stuff. They still make holders like that. That's a nice insert, but to take advantage of the chip breaker... You need to take heavy cuts. I like inserts with more top rake on manual. There is more of an up sharp on top that makes nice cutting on a manual. There is a ton of stuff out there that works great... View attachment 1125234

I bought that holder and a box of those inserts over 20yrs ago. Im on the first side of the 3rd insert. It makes a beautiful finish not being too sharp. Hardly ever any tool marks if the feed is right

 

[ridgeway]

I'm sure it works well. Cutting barrel steel and carbon steel is easy on inserts. 304, 17-4, inconel wouldn't be so easy on it taking light cuts.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I'm sure it works well. Cutting barrel steel and carbon steel is easy on inserts. 304, 17-4, inconel wouldn't be so easy on it taking light cuts.

Can you imagine if we had to cut that type metal for gunsmithing? Waspalloy or hastelloy? Man i dont miss those

 

[ridgeway]

Stellite is a bundle of joy too, lol

 

[Dud]

If a carbide insert works, I assume a brazed carbide would work as well.

The rounded tool steel I was thinking of was like a 3/16" radius on a 3/8" tool.

With some backlash, big pressure due to a wide cut and interrupted, I've gotten spring-spring-spring-bang when the tool takes far to big of a cut.

That's why I like an angle that pulls the cutter in to the cut, you can work so you're already at the end of the backlash, the spring goes away and you don't have to worry about the cutter biting off more than you intend.

I'm sure there is probably a technique to making big radius cutters work on interrupted cuts, I just always stuck with what I know to work.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Then you have this type. That one will really send folks to the curb. Think of how many times you can index that insert!

 

[Dud]

As soon as I get a workshop and a lathe of my own, I'll invest in inserts and holders but when I'm borrowing a lathe, I would rather just grind up a brazed carbide tool because $8-10 for a one time job isn't bad. If I lose track of the tool, no big deal.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

As soon as I get a workshop and a lathe of my own, I'll invest in inserts and holders but when I'm borrowing a lathe, I would rather just grind up a brazed carbide tool because $8-10 for a one time job isn't bad. If I lose track of the tool, no big deal.

Carry a cigar box with your tools and inserts in there

 

[Dud]

I've got Kennedy boxes full of tooling but it's not organized enough to pull out one of the 2-3 duplicated tools that would do the job...

I need shelving that won't move and a space to get used to.

 

[tobnpr]

So after some good advise I tried the stub mandrel method. a snug threaded mandrel that also butts up against the lugs.
This time it measured just over 0.001 and still had the high spot just in front of scope base screw holes.

I've used threaded mandrels as a way to determine if the threads are true "enough" to the centerline to not need single-pointing; not as a means for facing the receiver. I don't see what purpose it serves in that application.

For just facing the receiver, I use a Manson mandrel with tapered, self-centering bushings. One size fits all, and dimensional differences from front to rear of the boltway are accounted for. Spin it between centers with a set screw on the mandrel is all that's needed.

 

[Dud]

I have a surface ground recoil lug and a barrel nut that probably got cut true.

If the receiver threads aren't true to the receiver bore, and I use that as a reference, tightening my nut is going to cause uneven pressure which will try to bend the barrel/barrel nut/receiver.

If I cut it true to the threads, everything should tighten down evenly. The Savage floating bolt head should take care of any remaining misalignment.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have a surface ground recoil lug and a barrel nut that probably got cut true.

If the receiver threads aren't true to the receiver bore, and I use that as a reference, tightening my nut is going to cause uneven pressure which will try to bend the barrel/barrel nut/receiver.

If I cut it true to the threads, everything should tighten down evenly. The Savage floating bolt head should take care of any remaining misalignment.

If the floating bolt head worked as its thought to, there should be no truing needed, even stacking tolerances with bolt face, lugs, nut, action face, and barrel right?

 

[Dud]

No, float is going to allow for some misalignment between the receiver bore and the chamber. It's not going to do anything about a receiver face that isn't square to the threads.