Accu-Risers

[nmkid]

So, last night I'm cruising the Internet and I come upon a site the sells, "Accu-Risers". Looked to me like little washers that are bedded in an aluminum block. They show a process as to ascertain how many "washers" you need to perfectly bed the stock to the action along with a bedding mix. I guess the washers help create a small void between the bottom of the receiver and the alum'. block which is then filled with the bedding agent. The ad then goes on to mention how easily a REM 700 action can be, "twisted" if this process isn't used. Never heard of this before. Has anybody used these before? Sorry don't know how to post a link but I just Googled Accu-Risers

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Do you think adding washers will fit your action to the inletting better than actually fitting it to the inletting? If you space your action up a washers worth will the magazine box still be spaced correctly? Will the trigger work if it hits the back of the trigger guard? How will you tackle the tang- by just feathering out the epoxy under there to blend in the lifted tang?

 

[ballistic64]

I used them for bedding my action to an HS block and got good results. If you thinly apply prussian blue to your action and rotate it with hand pressure in the block, you will see how small the contact areas actually are. This didn't concern me nearly as much as checking the lug to block contact. Put some plastigauge on the rear of the lug and put your action together like you would assemble the gun and see what you come up with clearance. I put the .002-.006 plastigauge on and it didn't compress at all. I am no bedding expert but this kinda told me that when I was reassembling the barreled action to the stock, I was pushing the action bolts against the sides of the holes (I believe thats what was happening anyway.
The other thing I did when using these was to have a friend at a machine shop make me some locating studs to use instead of the action screws after applying the 10110. The studs were just slightly smaller then the holes in the stock to keep the action holes centered to the stock holes. I also used a dremel to grind away some of the block surface that is supposed mate up against the recoil lug to get a thicker application of the 10110. I didn't have any problems with reassembly (magazine etc.). But I also used the dremel to remove block material around the recesses where the washers go to get a thicker application of the 10110. I would use them again.

 

[nmkid]

Do you think adding washers will fit your action to the inletting better than actually fitting it to the inletting? If you space your action up a washers worth will the magazine box still be spaced correctly? Will the trigger work if it hits the back of the trigger guard? How will you tackle the tang- by just feathering out the epoxy under there to blend in the lifted tang?

All good questions. Didn't really give it any serious thought about trying it. However, I'm still looking around for a video or picture instructions on how to actually skim bed an aluminum block stock. I'm just looking because of what of I have read on the minimal contact of the block.

 

['Freak]

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i186.html

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The way i do it is grind out gouges in the aluminum leaving a small spot in the front and back maybe 1/8" square to keep it located in the correct spot height wise. When youre grinding it out youll see a clearcoat yellowy lookin stuff on top of the aluminum. Be sure all that is gone and you have plenty of room for the epoxy. Youll see 2 high spots- one on each side running the length of the front bridge. This is all that contacts from the factory. Be sure you grind those off and get it all ruffed up good with a dremel, degrease it good and bed away.