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A non-benchrest, but interesting reloading problem, Help?

I took my Marlin 1895 in 45-70,I told you it was non-benchrest) out last week and had this problem, perhaps someone can help.

I use Reloder 7 for this round. I got some hangfires and complete failures of the powder to ignite. On the complete failures, the primer has ignited but the powder has not. The primers are CCI large rifle, non-magnum. In those rounds, the powder is at least partially clumped and stuck together,like rice, although the powder is dry) and also is a greenish/yellowish/grayish color. I lube the cases with Hornady One-shot spray lube, and my first thought was that lube was getting inside those big mouthed cases and contaminating the powder. Hornady’s materials say it will not do that, but I still suspected it to be the case. I have deliberately sprayed One-shot into a case and then filled it with Reloder 7, but that experiment did not result in clumpy, yellow powder after leaving the powder in that case for two days.

The loads that showed the hangfires and failures to fire also strung vertically very severely. I can shoot that rifle accurately,1.5" to 2” groups at 100 yards), and the most recent time this occurred, I had groups that were 2” horizontally by 12” vertically. I suspect inconsistent ignition, and therefore inconsistent velocity.

Any thoughts? What else might contaminate the powder in this way? Is it something else?
 
What was the temperature outside? When temperatures plummet, large volume cases sometimes encounter difficulties in igniting the powder charge. Changing to a magnum primer,burns hotter) may solve this problem in cooler weather.

Other possibilities include a weak batch of primers, or a light firing pin strike. To address the latter, degrease the firing pin and possibly the trigger and hammer mechanisms and springs. If the rifle has fired a large number of rounds, replace the springs.
 
Could be the primers and not the powder.

You could have inadvertantly contaminated them with the case lube on your hands.
 
It may be that the toughness of the CCI primer cups, combined with what I would guess to be less energetic firing system of the Marlin is the problem. Try some Federals without changing anything else, and let us know if that solves the problem.
 
Switch to Swiss 1.5, I shoot it in my 40-65, 45-70, and 45-100.


You will not believe how much better the BP shoots than the smokeless in these old cartridges....
 
It was not cold. It was shirtsleeve weather. I'm in Gulf Coast Texas, and our winter is mild.

Would inconsistent or weak primers leave the powder with the clumpy and discolored appearance I described? Primer problems would have been my initial suspicion too, except for the appearance of the powder, which is what lead me to suspect that the powder itself was contaminated somehow.

I would like to load up some blackpowder raounds for grins, but one of the appeals of the Marlin is the increased velocity that can be had over blackpowder loads.
 
two things come to mind, one make shure you are seating the primers correctly????? and two dump the CCI's. The description as to the powder condition is that of ignition problems and is normal under those conditions, by the way ya might want to check the firing pin and spring, but i'll bet it's seating problems,not putting sensitivity) on the primers.

Clarence
and by the way, that 45x 2 1/10" will shoot cloverleafs with the "7" when ya get it right.
 
How long has this ammo been sitting around before you shot it? High humidity has been know to do what you described when loaded rounds have been left sitting around in this condition.

Just a thought!
 
I am coming to suspect the primers are the problem. Improper seating, or maybe they are contaminated. I will be extra careful next time. The cases will be cleaned after resizing, and I'll try some different primers.

Humidity is always an option in Houston, but the rounds were stored in the house. They were a few months old when I used them.
 
Sounds to me like a powder problem. This is very similar to an experience that I had with H110 that was very old, maybe 20 years. I would like to see you try a new batch of powder with the same batch of primers and vice versa. This should tell you which is the problem.

I too live in the Houston area and have had rounds years old still perform fine.
 
Oh, I can't wait for another hangfire in a fairly heavily loaded 45-70. That is just a barrel of monkeys.

I think I'll pass on the offer of the primers. ;)
 
I shoot a shiloh sharps and also a Navy arms highwall reproduction, both in 45-70. Some smokeless powders can be notoriously difficult to "light" in this case. I was trying to develop a load with 296,because I have a bunch of it) and experience the exact same problems you describe with standard primers. Magnum primers did the trick. You might also want to try some 3031. Great smokeless powder for the 45-70.
 
Reading you post struck me because a friend of mine had the same thing happen in his .243 Win. I don't recall the powder or primer but the way you described the power after trying to fire the round was exactly the same. Yellow and caked together. He also used Horn One-Shot lube. I wonder if after the loaded rounds sit for a while the lube soaks into the powder? I would try switching to Imperial Die Wax and see if you have the same problems. Once you switch to Die wax you won't want to go back to the spray anyway.
 

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