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reloading help please

im thinking about geting a different die set maybe rcbs or hornady, I have store credit at cabelas and would like to purchase from them, can any one recommend a good die that will get me some good accuracy Ive seen people put 150gr sst's in bug holes at 100yds and thats what I want to be-able to do, what I have this far is as fallows;
Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale
Lee Case Trimmer
Lee Collet Dies
lee classic press
lee auto primer
RCBS Dial Caliper
funnel
case lube
deburrer chamfer


I plan to get;
RCBS Flash Hole Deburring Tool
Hornady® Custom-Grade™ Dimension Rifle Two-Die Sets instead of the lee dies.


for the cartridges;
270 winchester brass
cci br primers
reloader 22
hornady 150gr sst's

any suggestions on what I may need, or technique to get good accuracy, Id like the ammo to be capable of 1/2" groups, donr mean the rifle will do it but.., I have a sig, and a remmy in .270, and later I will be getting the remmy blueprinted.. thanks guys

I heard for best accuracy from a bolt action just work on the neck dont resize whole cartridge??
 
Friend, it's your money to spend, and variety is the spice of life. But I really like the Lee Collet dies, and I use them and recommend them.
 
A Forster die set will get you a superior seating die. However, if you prefer the Lee Collet Die, it with the Forster seater and a Redding body die will give superior ammo.
.
 
Off the top, I don't see case lube and pad, or a case chamfer/deburring tool. I assume the Hornady two die set includes an essential full length die,?) but I'm not familiar with the set. Hornady, RCBS and Redding are all considered to be good dies. Lee is a little more controversial... most either love them or don't use them.

As you get further into reloading, you will find a wide variety of opinions re equipment and techniques... ultimately it comes down to whatever works for you. You will also find there is no single "best" combination of brass, primer, case and bullet that will give you the best load for a given rifle/caliber. Reading this forum will give you a lot of ideas.
 
I've been very happy with Redding dies. The best analogy I've heard is a church one. Some people belong to a blue church, some people to the red church. The people in the blue church think those in the red church are wrong. And the green church, well they don't like the other two either. There isn't a 'best' die set or company.

omahaguy said:
any suggestions on what I may need, or technique to get good accuracy, Id like the ammo to be capable of 1/2" groups, donr mean the rifle will do it but.., I have a sig, and a remmy in .270, and later I will be getting the remmy blueprinted.. thanks guys

I heard for best accuracy from a bolt action just work on the neck dont resize whole cartridge??

The best thing you can do for accuracy is to rebarrel the rifle with a high end barrel. When you true the action and rebarrel, you'll get a much better rifle back. Also, you may consider reducing the trigger pull weight. If the rifle is 5 or more years old, it has a very easy to work on trigger, if its newer, it has the x-mark trigger. I don't own a x-mark trigger so I don't know what is involved in adjusting them.

For good ammo, you need everything to be the exact same each time. If you have lots of brass, after you trim to length, sort it by weight. Make sure that each dimension/weight is perfect on each step. Are the primers all seating the same depth into the case? Is the powder accurate to .1grains,for my 270, if I'm within .3 on either side, I take the load). Is the overall length of the loaded round right? You can check that each bullet is 150.0gr.

So long as you do the exact same thing each time, you'll get good loads. If each round is a little bit different, you'll get different results each time.
 
I like dies that are cut with a single reamer to assure concentricity. The exception is dies for straight-walled cases where concentricity is not an issue.
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neck sizing will get u by but in time u will need to fl size them or you'll end up havin problems,,, i learned the hard way now i just fl size and i get great accuracy with my 25wssm with 75 grainers .161 is pretty darn good for a factory win mod 70 coyote wish all my rifles got that
 
Harry I was told that I only wanted to neck size for best accuracy from a bolt action, and only full length size for non bolt action?? well im confused again..lol
 
omahaguy said:
Harry I was told that I only wanted to neck size for best accuracy from a bolt action, and only full length size for non bolt action?? well im confused again..lol

Neck-sizing only will work for a while, but brass cases will grow to the point that you'll find it hard to chamber and/or extract them after a few firings. If feeding is an issue, then full-length sizing each time is a good idea. For single loading, you'd only need to full-length size occasionally.

Some of us use neck-sizing bushing dies,like from Redding and Wilson) and separate body dies.

I would not recommend neck-sizing only for brass that was not fired in the same rifle for which it will be reloaded. When in doubt, full-length size any cases which you cannot be sure of.
 
omahaguy, Neck sizing is the way to go and the collet die are a great way to do it. You will find out however that after a few loadings the ammo may start getting hard to chamber in you rifle. This will be when you need to start full length resizing to bump the shoulder on the case back to the proper dimension.
You mentioned all of your loading equipment but didn't say one word about your rifle. As someone said earlier, the quality of the rifle and more particularly the barrel will determine the quality and consistency of accuracy. Handloading will get you the most out of your equipment as it is now but cannot make a poor shooting rifle shoot better.
 
It seems that there is a common misconception that cases get tight only at the shoulder. If the bolt is tight at the top of its lift, this is more likely from the case being tight at the back. If you like Collet Dies, then a body die, used with it,should solve tight case problems and maintain concentricity better than a standard FL die. Adjust the body die for a .001" measured shoulder bump. The gauge that was originally sold by Stoney Point, now by Hornady, an attachment for calipers, should do the trick nicley.
 
I don't know, maybe it's just me but my opinion is that if you want bug holes at 100 yards you need a bug hole barrel. you can mess with your ammo all you want but if the barrel is not good then it won't matter what you do. You may get better groups but the money should be spent on the barrel instead of the dies. I use lee dies and have no problems, they are easier to setup and run than my RCBS which costs two to three times as much.

Like I said if the barrel has flaws in it your accuracy will not improve. Take the gun to a gunsmith that has a bore sight and let him check your barrel first.

Jim
 
im sorry my friends I should of gone into more details, this will be for a rem 700 action blueprinted, and probably a Krieger barrel, B&C med varmnt vert grip stock, EGW base, Burris xtreme rings. all the work will be done on my lathe
"no lapping all machined" havnt decided on a caliber yet but probably a 300 wsm or 30-06 and yes it is a LA as I wanted to be-able to set my bullet out farther with a 300 wsm then a SA would allow, but all things considered I may go with an -06 perhaps AI, right now I reload for my sig in .270 all factory setup and use the lee collet die, so I should add a FL die to my set from what Im hearing but what make? should I stick with Lee? I suppose since there are factory loads capable of sub .25 groups, and those arent fire formed to my chamber so I guess a FL die would be a good thing?

thanks guys
 
I have about every make of die and on average I can't tell if one makes more accurate ammo than any of the others. I can make accurate ammo on them all. Most accuracy will come from the rifle it's self and the nut behind the butt plate needs to be tightened up on sometimes. If you have a LA mag bolt action I would just go with the 300 Winchester mag if you are going to be using it for long range work. But the old 30-06 ain't no slouch either.
 

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