99 Savage 250-3000

[Barlow]

My brother owns this rifle and I have been trying to get it to shoot straight for a few years now. It has a Burris scope on it, that just came back from them and it seems ok. I noticed today the buttstock has a crack running on the right side of the tang down the stock about 2 inches. The crack starts on the inside next to the right side and runs slightly to the left behind the tang. (sorry I don't do pictures) Will this crack affect accuracy. 100 grain RP factory ammo shot 2 shots together high and 2 together 3 inches lower. Any info appreciated. Barlow

 

[DuaneinND]

It doesn't help, if the stock is flexing some because of the crack it might have some effect, but you mention you have been trying to get the rifle to shoot for a few years. Has it always shot the same "group"?

 

[Barlow]

DuaneinND, It's always been a scope issue. It would not adjust properly, not enough vertical adjustment, won't hold zero. It's a Burris Fullfield 3x9 and has been sent back to them 3 times for repair. After the second trip to Burris, it would not put a bullet on the bullseye at 50 yards with the elevation knob turned all the way up, shots printed approx. 2 inches low. He sent it back and when returned the letter said the elevation had been turned way to far and was overtorqued (or similar term) and they reset it and found no other problems. This is total bull. I turned the elevation knob to the end of its travel and stopped, no excess pressure was applied. This scope is too long for this rifle, it just looks out of place. I told my brother to get a compact of some kind and replace it. I am going to again put one of my scopes on it and test again, and if it works, it will be the LAST TIME I look thru this Burris scope. The cracked stock is common on 99's and may have little or no effect on accuracy, but I'm trying to eliminate any potential problem. Barlow

 

[JeffG]

The crack is most likely due to over-tightening the butt stock bolt sometime in it's history, or it can be caused by heavy loads, it is a common malady of the 99s. Your 100g bullets are pretty heavy for the 14 twist barrel. Try to find some 87g factory loads, or better, roll your own with 75g.

 

[JeffG]

There are some bad weaver bases out there for the 99, mostly the newer aluminum ones, that are poorly machined and even drilled off center.

 

[riflewoman]

Put a known good scope on it and see if that helps. I wouldn't worry about the point of impact until you get the accuracy sorted.

 

[Barlow]

It's a 10 twist, and I will try a good scope soon. I'm trying to get all these damn leaves out of the way while the weather holds. I just bought a leaf vac shredder rig, and I wish I would have had it long before now. Barlow

 

[DuaneinND]

Definitely try a different scope and even though it is a 10 twist try loading some 75 gr Vmax, they have shot extremely well in any 25 cal I have tested them in and that has included a couple of 250 Sav. with 10 twist barrels( 5 shots under .300 at 100). Another bullet that shoots real well is the Sierra 100gr HPBT match and it will stabilize in your 10 twist, load them about .015 off the touch point or as long as they can be to function through the magazine. Good luck.

 

[Barlow]

I will be trying some 87 gr Speers, I'll let you guys know the results. Thanks, Barlow

 

[ebb]

The scope being maxed out sounds like a base or ring problem to me. Had a guy at the range shooting into the dirt at 100yd range with a Ruger, scope maxed. After a while someone noticed it had the same length rings and Rugers have different length rings for front and back.

 

[Barlow]

I tried a different scope and had the same result. I was trying to figure out a way to shoot this rifle without the stock on it to try and eliminate the cracked stock issue. I finally put a c clamp on the stock where the crack was and tightened it down to close up the crack and stabilize it. I then shot a 1.3" group (4 shots) at 100 yards, best it ever did. Mt brother is going to get the stock fixed and stiffened up. I don't know what will happen but at least its promising. Barlow

 

[justlucky]

Have you checked to see if the scope is mounted properly? The tapped holes may be out of alignment and the scope is not parallel with the barrel. Or the rings are on in contact with the scope and need to be lapped?

 

[std7mag]

I'm leaning towards scope mounting issue.
Especially since i have the same scope & adjusted it 20.5 MOA to get zeroed at 100 yards. I have a 20 MOA base. So taking that into account, moved 2 clicks (0.5 MOA) to zero.

The 1:10 twist will stabilize up to 120gr bullets.
Ditch the factory Rem Corelokts!

 

[M-61]

Put a level on the barrel. I know it's tapered but see where the bubble is. Adjust the rifle so the bubble shows level. If you get the level on the scope take note of the bubble. You know it shouldn't be the same. However you know the can't be off to the opposite side. Scope goes UP bullets go down. Scope goes down bullets go up.
I wrote this about as poorly as I can but I hope you see where I am going. What a mess. Sorry. Looking for something off on the mounts.

 

[biggun2869]

I had a friends up here in the same caliber that he swore had always shot well until he accidently put a 22-250 in there while trying to hurry to shoot a deer. I don't know if thats what was wrong w/it but I never could get it to shoot well. Gary

 

[Preacher]

Being a 5 year old post I'll assume he has it figured out by now.
Just saying....

 

[Ggmac]

I tried a different scope and had the same result. I was trying to figure out a way to shoot this rifle without the stock on it to try and eliminate the cracked stock issue. I finally put a c clamp on the stock where the crack was and tightened it down to close up the crack and stabilize it. I then shot a 1.3" group (4 shots) at 100 yards, best it ever did. Mt brother is going to get the stock fixed and stiffened up. I don't know what will happen but at least its promising. Barlow

Its not the stock its goibg to be the base or rings . DO NOT FORCE SCOPE ADJUSTMENTS . It should be a simple matter to find an older REDFIELD scope base and rings . Your rifle may not have been factory drilled , even if it was a proper base install could require a shim under the front or rear contact screw . Easy enough to see if needed . Mount rear base screw and view front of base , if a clearance is witnessed a shim may be needed but first remove rear screw and install front screw , see if a clearance is present in the rear . If so the rear may need a shim . What im trying to establish is were the shim is needed . If we go back to the rear screw and there is no clearance bur the base is hard touching in the front when the rear screw is tightened then you can be pretty sure the rear is going to need a shim . This will be the the determining factor , now go back and remove rear screw , install front screw and if no clearance in the back but you can feel the base flexing as you tighten the screw ( hard touch in rear ) then the front will require a shim . I hope this makes sense . Its much easier and faster for me to actually do it than it is trying to describe the process .
It was common and usually done and needed when mounting scopes on rifles not originally made for scopes . This was what kept many of us older smiths in business . Mausers , enfields , springfields , m-1 , etc all needed to be checked for shims . Almost every older rifle varied in external receiver dimensions that the base and ring manufacturers had directions similar to what i was trying to explain .
Ps dont expect great groups , these 99s can vary but 2-4” is about all to be expected . If you want , check bore diam. Groove diam . And for tight spots , check crown and of course borescope for severe pitting and rust . These were tools meant for diminishing hunger , ie FOOD ON THE TABLE .