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7mm brass won't chamber in gun (New Guy)

I bought 250 rounds of nickel plated brass for my Tikka 7mm, never had one problem with them, have 5-6 firings on each one, they’re still doing great. As said above, you need FL size that once fired brass that was used in another gun!
 
I bought 250 rounds of nickel plated brass for my Tikka 7mm, never had one problem with them, have 5-6 firings on each one, they’re still doing great. As said above, you need FL size that once fired brass that was used in another gun!
Thank you. I am going to use my nickel plated that I currently have and add some new brass that I will fire through my rifle this week so I can use/compare both. I have set aside my purchased once-fired brass because it's not been fired through my rifle and is essentially useless to me.
 
Just adding: Make sure that you ignore everything from the source that told you to not resize once-fired brass.
Yes sir. I have set aside THAT tidbit of knowledge. After getting on this forum and then reviewing all the information I've received, I realized that was not good info.
 
View any YouTube vid's at, your own, PERIL,.. MOST of those Guys know next to nothing about, "shooting", Guns, Bullets, Reloading, etc.
A FEW do, tho ! It's almost all, for ENTERTAINMENT and they make Money off, the Views ! If somebody says something wrong on "here", 5 guys will, jump on it and, tell them it's,.. WRONG ! This is, "THE" place to come, for answers. Welcome aboard !
 
New barrel , new chamber... If the brass was shot in your old barrel it's fire formed to that chamber... You need to F/L size it and fire it in your new chamber...
 
Learn how to strip your bolt and get any tool that is required to do it. It’s an essential thing.
 
UPDATE: I have read every response and they're all truly appreciated. I decided to start from "zero" and I purchased new 7mm rounds and fired 10 of them through my rifle. I planned to fire 20 but I wuss'd-out after 10 due to my shoulder hurting!! lol. I have a tap & die and will tap one of those rounds tomorrow to create my own "modified case" to use with my Hornady Overall Length Gauge. I plan to decap each once-fired round, check the OAL, measure the bullet seating depth with the OAL Gauge, then clean brass, resize a few thousandths, trim if necessary, reclean if necessary, reprime, powder, bullet....chrono, verify accuracy. If anyone has any steps I'm missing, feel free to advise. Again, thank you all for the information. I'm a pretty OCD kinda guy and learning a new skillset is testing my OCD-icity!!! lol
 
Everyone, THANK YOU. I appreciate the info. Please keep all the info/links/data coming. I now have reloading "stuff" strewn from the living room, to my reloading room, to the back bedroom. I have placed two online orders today for pieces/parts I realized I'm not in possession of (i.e. 7mm shell holder, etc) and downloaded the latest Hornady Reloading Manual. Apparently, I am doing this project from Step 20 - backwards to Step 1, in that I don't even have a shell holder to start my process but I have dies, powder, calipers, etc!!!! But I'm slowly getting there and with everyone's info, links, videos and suggestions, I'm well on my way. Again, thank you gentlemen. Keep it coming!! V/R, Daniel

ok this may be a little over your head now but reading about it will help you understand.

belted magnums were designed to headspace off the belt. as a reloader we want to change that to headspacing off the shoulder. if we don't after a few firings you will experience case head separation.

do you have a set of hornady headspace gauges? if not then order them. measure the base to shoulder of your factory rounds and compare to your fired brass. fired brass has grown a lot right. now it may or may not be fully fireformed at this point meaning it might need to grow a little more.

you have to resize after every firing but at this point you may not want to set the shoulder back. what i suggest is to start with you sizing die backed well off. size a piece of brass and watch the neck. give it a quarter turn at a time until you see it starting to size the neck. at that point use an 1/8 turn until it is sizing most of the neck but not hitting the shoulder. you will feel more resistence when the die hits the shoulder. now try chambering the piece of brass you just sized. if it chambers easily then load them and shoot them. if it chambers tight or not at all then you are ready to set the shoulder bump. turn the die in tiny amounts, size and check for chambering. if it takes very much, 1/8 turn, then you probably not sizing the base enough. if that happens get back to us.
 
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ok this may be a little over your head now but reading about it will help you understand.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...ew-guy.3968634/members/richard-coody.1302334/


That's great information. And definitely a little over my head. lol. But I got it. I do have a Hornady Headspace Comparator Kit, a Hornady OAL Gauge and a Hornady Bullet Comparator Set. I fired 10 rounds yesterday, decapped them, then took measurements on all 10 and found the average (2.117). Today I went to my buddy's machine shop and he made me a "Modified Case" from one of those rounds fired through my gun yesterday (actually we made two). So now I have an OAL Gauge with a Modified Case that "fits" my guns barrel. It seems like I may need another piece of equipment, possibly. I still have to research a little this week while I'm at work. However, I think I'm finally at a "starting point" on this project. I have everything I need to measure, resize, etc. I have purchased darn near EVERYTHING I have been told that I need, to include a new set of dies, a concentricity gauge, digital caliper, etc. etc. etc. I definitely want to do this right.
 
Invest in a Wilson chamber gauge and use it to verify your rounds are correctly sized. Ni plated brass is not adequate for annealing, so it is really used mostly for pistol brass. The FL size is clearly the way to go for most shooting requirements unless you have experience with neck sizing and loading for a tight, match chamber. The Wilson gauge will verify SAAMI headspace and brass length. If a loaded round chambers in the gauge, it matches the factory rounds. Work with your rifle only after you verify your hand loading process with the Wilson gauge.

For your information, serious benchrest shooters verify with a gauge that is made by cutting a short length of barrel with the same reamer that was used to chamber their rifle. Then you can easily verify both FL sized and neck-sized rounds safely at the loading bench.
 
To each his own. Lost count of rounds after about 400 but burned off a 1,000 primer box using 100 pieces of 25-06 Remington brass in a 6.5-06. Full length sized the first time, then never. Never FL sized. Lee collet die only. Still chamber up with a touch of resistance. One cracked neck in all that. Also, never, not in 15 years and over a thousand rounds touched the bolt or cleaned or disassembled. Mauser model 98'. So while I agree he has to FL size to get it to fit, it is not in everyone's mandatory list of things to do nor is F-ing with a perfectly fine bolt. Hunting rifle, not a bench poodle :)
 

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