700 F/TR Build Questons

[chattduck]

Several years ago, I purchased a Rem 700 in 308, 26" 1-12 fluted, with the HS Precision w/ Alum bedding block, and a Harris bipod. I dabbled at the 1000 yd game, learning the ropes, upgrading my handloading, and etc. I currently shoot 175 gr Sierra MKs, and here's my problem. The rifle came with a fairly long throat, and after almost 2000 rounds, I can't chase the lands much farther. So, I plan to order a new tube soon, and have it fitted this fall.

My current rig weighs about 12 lbs, all included. I estimate the barrel to weigh 4.25 lbs, so I am at 7.75 lbs w/o bbl. That gives me 10.5 lbs of room for the new barrel.

I plan to go with the 185 Juggernaut, as I feel like this is becoming tried and true, and will be competitive.

Questions:
Barrel length and weight? I am thinking 30", 1 in 12, Heavy Palma. I could easily go with a heavier contour, but am concerned about the 700 action supporting the weight, vertical stringing, and etc. Also, I am not sure how much the barrel channel can be opened up and still support the bipod. I plan to leave the barrel completely free floated. Is this the way to go, or would some amount of barrel bedding work better with this stock?

And, assuming my finished rig comes out 2-4 lbs under allowable weight, what is a 'clean' way to add weight? I do know that at some point I will prob upgrade the bipod, but will still need a few lbs.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Gary

 

[Phil]

Gary,

I`m not an "F" class shooter,but i can tell you that if you put a big long tube on it, it will be front heavy and need some weight added to the butt of the rifle to balance out.....

Food for thought.

I`m sure someone better qualified than myself will be along to guide you...

Phil.


P.S.....Welcome to the forum.....

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

What kind of scope and rings do you have on there? They must not weigh much if rifle, bipod and scope are at 12 pounds total.

For 1000 yard F-TR with 185 Jugs, a 30 inch 1:12 heavy Palma contour would be just fine. Make sure to get the barrel bead blasted; it help with cooling.

 

[chattduck]

bayou,

I have a Sightron S3 6x24x50 with burris sig zee rings on a weaver base. The scope alone weighs around 24 oz, and the entire setup is around 32 ish. The setup works very well.

I did not know bead blasting helps cooling. Thanks for the tip.

 

[boltman13]

A standard Palma barrel would give you a few more oz's of wiggle room and a slightly more balanced rifle. Or you could add an inch or two of barrel for slightly more velocity.

 

[Fordnutter]

For 1000 yard F-TR with 185 Jugs, a 30 inch 1:12 heavy Palma contour would be just fine. Make sure to get the barrel bead blasted; it help with cooling.

Could you elaborate some more? Does the bead blasting give a little more surface area...so better cooling??

 

[jonbearman]

You can have a weight system put in the buttstock so you can put it all in to make weight or remove a weight or two to get what you want in balance.I would ,if you can by a new stock that is stiffer than the HS Precision as it was designed for a hunting rifle versus F-Class. Hopefully eric will chime in and give you more to work with,advice wise.

 

[effendude]

It sounds like you will be fine for weight. I have always found the 175 Sierras very tolerant of jump, but at 2K of rounds, it is a wise choice to get planning on a new barrel. It sounds like a hvy. palma contour will work fine. 30" is a reasonable length to get good velocities. I would suggest that you consider a faster twist if you can find one. A 1-10" will shoot nearly everything you feed it. I have never heard of bead blasting keeping the barrel cooler, but I am open to new ideas. I personally like the shiny stuff.

As for a stock, shoot what you have but keep your eyes out for a PR&T F-TR stock or evn a prone style stock that will fit. F-TR is a completely different discipline from bech or F-Open shooting. Field style stocks work surprising well when shot off bi-pods.
Good Luck,
Scott

 

[chattduck]

Thanks for the replies thus far.

However, I know there are stocks better than the HS and actions better than the 700. But, at this time, I am going to replace the existing barrel with one that is a little longer, a little heavier, and with a proper chamber. I wish to shoot F/tr with a rifle that resembles a basic M40, which will also be used to play other games in other shooting disciplines.

Maybe one day, I will make the decision to go the full candy apple red route. But when I do go all in, it will prob an open rifle in a 7mm something, all decked out. But for now, I have many points to be gained reading wind and working on the basics. Heck, I could switch to a better bipod and add weight to my existing setup and prob pick up 2-5 points per relay.

And, yes I am jumping the 175's a bit, and I will prob over 3000 by the time fall comes.

Just planning ahead for now, lol.

 

[Scott Harris]

A B&C adjustable tactical medalist stock weighs about 5.5lbs and is perfect for F-TR....$490. It sounds like your current stock is really light, so this would be a good upgrade. A heavy palma, light varmint or heavy varmint contour would work well. For F-TR the goal is to get the weight up to 18lbs...not sure if that is your objective here.

 

[Erik Cortina]

I agree with some of the others, save some weight to be added to the butt of the stock to balance the rifle out. You also have to include the weight of the bipod in your overall weight for F-T/R.

 

[chattduck]

I agree that balance and weight need some attention. Part of the reason for trying to nail down my projected barrel weight is that I could go ahead and add weight to the stock now, and leave room for the heaver barrel.

It looks like the way to go is to add the correct weight of epoxy/lead shot to the butt-stock cavity and then possibly fill with great stuff. This seems simple, but would be a real pain if you ever needed to remove part of it.

Part of my original question was about how to bed the barrel. Should I fully free float, bed the first few inches, or does it not matter?

 

[Erik Cortina]

I agree that balance and weight need some attention. Part of the reason for trying to nail down my projected barrel weight is that I could go ahead and add weight to the stock now, and leave room for the heaver barrel.

It looks like the way to go is to add the correct weight of epoxy/lead shot to the butt-stock cavity and then possibly fill with great stuff. This seems simple, but would be a real pain if you ever needed to remove part of it.

Part of my original question was about how to bed the barrel. Should I fully free float, bed the first few inches, or does it not matter?

All it takes is a drill and a drill bit and you can have it removed in minutes.

Drill hole in the stock, I usually drill a two 3/4" or 7/8" holes 4-5 inches deep. I usually know how much weight I need, so I pre-weigh the lead shot and I then drill holes until I can use all the lead shot. I then clean out the holes with compressed air and I mix up 5 minute epoxy and fill up the hole with epoxy 1/3 of the way. I then start adding lead shot, as the lead shot sinks in the epoxy it gets covered with epoxy. Since the lead shot is heavier, the epoxy will rise to the top. I like to leave the lead shot about 1/8" below flush and then simply wipe off the excess epoxy and it leaves a nice finished look. It's very easy.

CAUTION: DO NOT DRILL HOLES TOO DEEP OR YOU WILL WEAKEN THE STOCK AT THE HAND GRIP AREA.

 

[Ken Dickerman]

I do the same as Eric using lead shot, except no epoxy. Just paper towel stuffed in the top if there is a gap. Then with a change in scope or barrel length, weight is just dumped out, or added and paper towel adjusted. No rattle, no noise, no shift. I had to make an adjustment at a weigh in in Phoenix 3 years ago and just poured a couple of ounces out.

 

[Erik Cortina]

I do the same as Erik using lead shot, except no epoxy. Just paper towel stuffed in the top if there is a gap. Then with a change in scope or barrel length, weight is just dumped out, or added and paper towel adjusted. No rattle, no noise, no shift. I had to make an adjustment at a weigh in in Phoenix 3 years ago and just poured a couple of ounces out.

This works as well, but I'm afraid that my stock will split, that's why I like to use epoxy. You could epoxy 3/4 of the say and leave the last 1/4 without epoxy in case you need to remove some weight.

 

[broncman]

Has anyone experimented with weight placement on a FTR gun? I.E. more weight forward, more in rear etc.... One thing to balance a gun at rest but under recoil where do you want the weight?

 

[XTR]

If you go with a 30" heavy Palma you'll have no problems if you go to a Nightforce scope (32oz) or get a different stock or bipod or another stock. To shoot 185s a 1:12 should do fine.

I have one FTR rifle built on a R700, I just had it rebarreled with another Heavy Palma.

 

[esromvre]

I use a 700 with a AMU taper. and a Manners stock. note I hade to flute the barrel and bolt. but it seems to work fine.

 

[stool]

in testing done way back...mid 70's...
a slightly rough, flat black surface cooled best.
compared to smooth
polished
natural color......

 

[claymore]

I would recommend a 10 twist. A lot of people shoot heavier bullets and a 10 twist will allow you to do so. I sometimes shoot 155g bullets and the 10 twist works great but I usually shoot 200g. If you are buying a new barrel why limit yourself.