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700 Action not cooperating.

So I have a 223 700 action with a new TriggerTech special trigger, when I adjust the trigger between
1.0 Lbs and 1.5 pounds (where I want it) and rapidly manipulate the bolt home the striker drops. If I lift the bolt up and down without any rearward movement the striker holds.

I marked the bottom of the cocking piece with a sharpie and pushed the bolt in until the bolt stopped
without rotating the bolt and the cocking piece contacts the trigger sear.

Checked the striker travel and it is around .270 so I am thinking about removing some material from
the cocking piece to prevent the cocking piece from hitting the sear.

Looking for some guidance.
 
I’ve done probably a thousand triggers and trigger jobs. I had that problem with a TT trigger I installed for a friend. He sent it back and replaced it with a Bix which worked perfectly. The trigger was bad. Don’t go playing with the cocking piece.
 
I had a similar issue once. Also found that the action had little/ no primary extraction. Once the bolt handle was put in the correct location, the problem was gone.
 
Not on this particular rifle, had a old stock adjustable Remington trigger but
it was not set too low.

I was thinking that the cocking piece was striking the trigger sear causing the cocking piece to skip over the trigger sear.
Normally the bolts forward movement is stopped by bolt handle contacting the extraction cam on the receiver before the cocking piece strikes the sear on the trigger.
Then as you rotate the bolt the cocking piece engages the trigger sear without a
impact. All this may be due to the extraction timing but it does have a reasonable
amount of extraction movement.
 
Interesting, triggertech has the "ticker" an intermediary component to enable the sear to release. This component is part of(connected to) the frictionless release technology(free floating roller) between the sear and trigger. It looks like the housing of the trigger assembly provides the pivot and capture points for these actions(movement) release and resetting the trigger. I would contact triggertech there could be a machining issue.
 
Everything has tolerances and in this case, ample opportunity for stacking of these tolerances to do what you describe. I'd try any other trigger and go from there. Your trigger may well work fine in another action. You could try that if you have aone to try it in as well. I've seen this just a few times. It happens on occasion where everything is within spec separately but not when those two particular pieces are used together.
 
Not on this particular rifle, had a old stock adjustable Remington trigger but
it was not set too low.

I was thinking that the cocking piece was striking the trigger sear causing the cocking piece to skip over the trigger sear.
Normally the bolts forward movement is stopped by bolt handle contacting the extraction cam on the receiver before the cocking piece strikes the sear on the trigger.
Then as you rotate the bolt the cocking piece engages the trigger sear without a
impact. All this may be due to the extraction timing but it does have a reasonable
amount of extraction movement.
Stuff like this is hard to diagnose 'long distance', if you follow me. We make assumptions about certain things being a certain way....all of which could be a contributing factor to the issue. When those assumptions are wrong, that's when things get wonky, advice-wise. It might be simple. And it might not be. The TT 'ticker' is basically their version of the third lever in many other trigger designs.

I'm no stranger to modifying cocking pieces, trigger connector pieces, shrouds, cocking piece notches/ramp angles and extraction camming, etc. Just be aware that one change often affects more than one thing, is all.

The fact that a factory trigger works safely is the place to start from.

Keep us informed, ok?
 
I've had two triggers (not Triggertech) that would fire when the bolt was slammed home quickly when set at low pounds (or ounces). I couldn't adjust them to the low weight I desired and still maintain a safe level of sear engagement. They worked great at a higher than wanted weight - and I ultimately removed one of them. The other, I still need to replace when I get to it. Me - I'd not modify the parts on your rifle to accommodate that trigger.
 
When adjusting factory 700 triggers I found that adjusting the weight screw to light resulted in unreliable return of the trigger sear. Sometimes it needed a bump, etc. working the bolt quickly results in almost never actually resetting and thus the firing pin slams home.

As far as aftermarket triggers I’m only familiar with Jewel and RilfleBasix. The design of the Jewel is vastly superior to the RifleBasix and the factory 700. While I can’t necessarily help directly with the TT, I suspect that it might not play well at the weight you’ve adjusted it to.
 
First of all, apparently you do not know how your rifle works. The cocking piece is supposed to touch the sear. That contact is what holds the sriker assembly in cocked position until you pull the trigger. I have often seen shooters who want to use a trigger at a lighter pull weight than it can safely handle. It seems that you fall into that category. Either increase your trigger pull weight setting until it functions correctly every time, or buy a different trigger. The Jewel HVR will give you anything from two ounces to several pounds. I have one, and I can thump the butt on the floor, slam the bolt very hard and slap the comb to the point where it stings the palm of my hand and it holds at two ounces. IMO only fools load and fire a rifle with the trigger set so light that it will not pass my standard tests. Getting back to trigger and sear, Remingtons are built with a certain amount of cock on close. Generally this is not a functional problem for 99.9% of shooters. Here is a little homework for you. I suggest that you watch it several times.
 

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