700 Action not cooperating.

[whatsupdoc]

First of all, apparently you do not know how your rifle works. The cocking piece is supposed to touch the sear. That contact is what holds the sriker assembly in cocked position until you pull the trigger. I have often seen shooters who want to use a trigger at a lighter pull weight than it can safely handle. It seems that you fall into that category. Either increase your trigger pull weight setting until it functions correctly every time, or buy a different trigger. The Jewel HVR will give you anything from two ounces to several pounds. I have one, and I can thump the butt on the floor, slam the bolt very hard and slap the comb to the point where it stings the palm of my hand and it holds at two ounces. IMO only fools load and fire a rifle with the trigger set so light that it will not pass my standard tests. Getting back to trigger and sear, Remingtons are built with a certain amount of cock on close. Generally this is not a functional problem for 99.9% of shooters. Here is a little homework for you. I suggest that you watch it several times.

Of course the cocking piece contacts the sear the issue is that the cocking piece should not
strike the sear before the bolt starts to rotate.

 

[BoydAllen]

Of course the cocking piece contacts the sear the issue is that the cocking piece should not
strike the sear before the bolt starts to rotate.

Wrong, that is how cock on close works. The cocking piece contacts the sear before you start to rotate the bolt. It is not an issue. That is intentional, by design. All stock Remingtons do that, As I said, it is not an issue. Just out of curiosity what kind of shooting are you doing, and what configuration is your rifle? on rifles with cock on close, if you open the bolt and then turn it back down without allowing it to move slightly to the rear the trigger will not be caught by the cocking piece. By designing in some cock on close, manufactures distribute the work of cocking the action so that less effort is required for the opening part of cocking. As you remove material from the cocking piece, you reduce the striker fall. When you are taking measurements of the relative positions of the cocking piece and the shroud, remember that on a RH Remington the shroud backs out of the bolt body as the bolt is lowered, so if you want to know what is happening you have to figure out how much it moves. This is one quarter of one inch divided by the shroud's thread pitch. BTW I believe that PTG sells a "benchrest" sear that is .030 shorter, if you want to do some experimenting.

 

[mudduck]

Of course the cocking piece contacts the sear the issue is that the cocking piece should not
strike the sear before the bolt starts to rotate.

As Boyd said this is cock on close. All my 700’s do this. One with factory trigger and two with jewels I think you have trigger issues

 

[whatsupdoc]

OK on my particular action lifting the bolt up and lowering it will re-cock the striker without moving the bolt back. Now could it be moving back without me realizing? Its possible.
I measured the striker fall and its .270 (using a dial indicator on the rear of the cocking piece).

What I was trying to accomplish is a reliable safe trigger pull at 1lb and it appears that
that the triggertech trigger does not like the hard impact from the cocking piece.

I see the PTG cocking piece you mentioned and most likely it would work but I do not believe I require -.030 to get the trigger to function properly. I am going to remove some material from a spare cocking piece I have and see if it solves the issue. Worst case I am out a cocking piece.

Thanks for your comments.

 

[BoydAllen]

OK on my particular action lifting the bolt up and lowering it will re-cock the striker without moving the bolt back. Now could it be moving back without me realizing? Its possible.
I measured the striker fall and its .270 (using a dial indicator on the rear of the cocking piece).

What I was trying to accomplish is a reliable safe trigger pull at 1lb and it appears that
that the triggertech trigger does not like the hard impact from the cocking piece.

I see the PTG cocking piece you mentioned and most likely it would work but I do not believe I require -.030 to get the trigger to function properly. I am going to remove some material from a spare cocking piece I have and see if it solves the issue. Worst case I am out a cocking piece.

Thanks for your comments.

Your trigger is the fault, not the cocking piece. To do what I described, you have to dry fire the action and then as you open it hold the bolt forward as you raise it to the top, and then lower it while maintaining the forward pressure. Without substantial pressure, the lugs will simply follow the closing cams which will have the bolt moving far enough to the rear to pick up the trigger when you close it. The forward pressure will have to be enough to hold against the weight of the striker spring, which is over twenty pounds. Keep an eye on the gap between the front of the root of the bolt handle and the bolt notch in the action to gauge bolt position and whether you are allowing it to move to the rear. I suggest that your particular trigger will not safely meet their minimum pull weight specification. Try setting it to one and a half pounds and let us know what happens. If that does not fix it, you nee to have a conversation with the manufacturer.

 

[swd]

OK on my particular action lifting the bolt up and lowering it will re-cock the striker without moving the bolt back. Now could it be moving back without me realizing? Its possible.
I measured the striker fall and its .270 (using a dial indicator on the rear of the cocking piece).

What I was trying to accomplish is a reliable safe trigger pull at 1lb and it appears that
that the triggertech trigger does not like the hard impact from the cocking piece.

I see the PTG cocking piece you mentioned and most likely it would work but I do not believe I require -.030 to get the trigger to function properly. I am going to remove some material from a spare cocking piece I have and see if it solves the issue. Worst case I am out a cocking piece.

Thanks for your comments.

Reducing your cock on close won’t fix your trigger problem.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Your trigger pull weight scale needs to be reading correctly also, if it is reading a few oz heavy the trigger will be outside safe setting range.

 

[Edd]

OK on my particular action lifting the bolt up and lowering it will re-cock the striker without moving the bolt back.

The cocking piece should not contact the trigger bar before you start rotating the bolt closed because the amount of cam lift on the receiver should be more than the amount of cock on close.

I don't think your cocking piece is contacting the bar early because if the cocking piece was contacting the trigger bar before the bolt handle contacts the back of the receiver, it wouldn't re-cock by just lifting the bolt.

 

[whatsupdoc]

So I ended up removing some material from the cocking piece and the striker
will no longer fall no matter how fast I manipulate the bolt. Trigger is set to one
pound and I have approximately .253 of pin fall so I removed around .017 material
from the cocking piece.

With no optic mounted I also tried to get the trigger to release by striking the action with a wooden mallet and striking the chassis recoil pad hard on a concrete floor
and the trigger holds fine.

I stole the optic and chassis off this 700 to use on a Vudoo and I just bought a chassis for the the 700 that is now in. I am debating how much to spend on a scope for the Vudoo then I will return the scope back on the 700 and hopefully the reduction of pin fall will not affect it.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.