6BR not consistent

[longbow59]

I would check your stock for warpage. Had a Savage 12 Benchrest in 6BR and did a very similar thing. Went through just about everything mentioned already. Sent it back to Savage 2 times and was sent back saying it shot within their specs. Pulled a lot of hair out that I didn't have to spare. Replaced the factory wood stock with a H&S Precision stock and wow what a tack driver and very consistent.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Thats where I am at. Definitely cheaper than a new barrel.

My Tikka barrels are $319.

Some barrels just don't shoot. You can talk to them and coax them and wish them to shoot better and they just never do.

I mean I tell customers all the time that life is short brother. Components aren't cheap. Chasing a turd is really a waste of your life. That's just one man's simple opinion.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Following with interest on how you get it fixed, because I know you and those responding know what their talking about.
I see your using # 450 primers, maybe change to a different primer?

 

[JFrank]

Sometimes the scope rings and rail are just not compatible, the slightest misalignment can cause movement.
It doesn’t cost anything to examine the fit without the scope in the rings.

 

[STOMP442]

I would check your stock for warpage. Had a Savage 12 Benchrest in 6BR and did a very similar thing. Went through just about everything mentioned already. Sent it back to Savage 2 times and was sent back saying it shot within their specs. Pulled a lot of hair out that I didn't have to spare. Replaced the factory wood stock with a H&S Precision stock and wow what a tack driver and very consistent.

I have been keeping an eye out for a good deal on a Tikka stock just to swap out and try. I spent a lot of time and effort on this Richards stock though and I really don't want that to be the problem. It turned out beautifully and I love pretty wood over a composite.

 

[STOMP442]

Following with interest on how you get it fixed, because I know you and those responding know what their talking about.
I see your using # 450 primers, maybe change to a different primer?

I have some 400s I can try. I automatically went to the 450s because thats what my others are using for one and the fact that this is a factory tikka bolt set up for a standard large rifle case and I didn't want any cratering or pierced primer issues. I will try some 400s and see what it does.

 

[Murray Brook]

If your loads are on the hot side I would try another primer rather than than the 400. They don't like pressure at least when I used them.

 

[X Count]

I have been keeping an eye out for a good deal on a Tikka stock just to swap out and try. I spent a lot of time and effort on this Richards stock though and I really don't want that to be the problem. It turned out beautifully and I love pretty wood over a composite.

I'd your confident in your components and loading then consider.

With the tikka from factory they have a recoil lug that engages in a slot in the action. The lug is undersize to this slot so there is movement in the action and in the stock.

Suggest running the mill through the slot in the action to clean it up and then make a recoil lug up that is .001 or less undersize. A drop of low strength Loctite on the lug to hold it in place while it's bedded. Once you pop it out the bedding, leaving the lug behind. Scrape the excess Loctite off the lug and the action.

This issue will cause movement even when it passes the conventional bedding test.

 

[chop house]

Watching with great interest. I have a .204 that strings diagonal like that 'most' times. Hope you have luck and report back!

 

[coldboreshot]

I built this rifle a couple months ago. The intended purpose was something to punch paper with while I waited for other guns to cool. This was something to challenge myself with and practice my fundamentals. No serious competition just my enjoyment. Turns out this thing has been the most aggravating and discouraging rifle I have ever messed with. Rifle specs are as follows.

Tikka T3x Action
Krieger HV 12 twist finished at 24"
Richards Wolverine target stock pillar and glass bedded.
Jard 12oz trigger
Leupold one piece rail
Burris Signature Zee rings
Sightron SII Target 36x42
ADG Brass
CCI 450 Primers.

I have tried 64gr Bergers, 70gr Sierras and 85gr Sierras all with Varget, N133, N135, Benchmark and H4895. All bullets seem to shoot about the same. Best 5 shot groups I have been able to get, are high twos to mid threes which I would be extremely happy with if I could do it consistently. This rifle will not repeat, ever. I can work up a load with any given combo find one that shoots really well, go home and load enough for three or four five shot groups and never shoot a group under a half inch on my next outing. I am an experienced shooter and don't feel that I am the cause. I have had my wife shoot it (she is a better shooter than I am) with the same result so I am fairly positive that it is not shooter induced error. I have pulled the bedding and re-bedded the rifle, changed scopes, checked all action and base screws and done the cotton swab around the crown. Everything checks out fine. The 70gr Sierra seems to be the most consistent bullet out of this rifle and has give me most of the better groups this rifle has shot. I purchased a bore scope to look at the barrel and I did find a concerning area about an inch from the muzzle and these marks go 360 degrees at this spot. I guess my question is, this the cause of all my inconsistency? I am also attaching a target photo from my last outing. All groups were shot at 100 yards from a bench rest and rear bag. 29.0gr of N133 and the Sierra 70gr Match King. I spent the day prior working up a load with that bullet and powder combo and shot a group in the high twos. Took it back out to confirm and shot these three groups. Chrony data showed a velocity of 3208fps and SD of 5 over the course of fire, using a buddies new Garmin Unit. Barrel probably has 400 rounds on it at this point and I have been giving it a good cleaning every 50 rounds or so generally before switching powders to try.

A few questions:
The two targets on the left,
What is the sequence of shots? Can you number the shots according to the sequence? Do they begin from outside and settle to center or vise versa?
2- why the neccesity to give " good cleaning" every 50 rounds?
Might not be neccessary. I have friend who deep cleans too frequently and his groups will not tighten and settle until the next relay of 20 shots for record.
3- Are you confident that every adjustment or fastener on the front rest is secure?

Seems like the three targets have somewhat relativity to point of impact. Thats why I ask about the shot sequence.
Alot of folks here focus on reloading, chronos and borescopes but dont pay enough attention to position and repetitiveness behind the rifle.
With all the different bullets and powders, to what extent have the sampling variables been with each of the powder charges and bullets seatings?

 

[STOMP442]

The reason for cleaning so much is because I was switching powders trying to nail down a load. I have always cleaned before trying a new powder just something I have always done. Once I have found a good repeatable load I generally don't clean until about 200 rounds or accuracy falls off.

Range Report
I took the rifle down, removed all the bedding an re-did it for a 3rd time. polished the bore with some JB, removed and replaced the base and installed new rings and mounted a new Burris 6-24 scope and loaded some rounds with the newly received 80gr Bergers and some H4895. Shot five foulers and let it cool then shot 3 five shot groups and letting it cool in between. Biggest measured just over .4 and smallest at the hottest load in the mid twos. Very happy with how it shot today. I will load more and continue to work my way up load wise and see how it does. Looks like there was some serious improvement but as yet unclear as to what one of the things I changed seemed to work.

 

[KMW 1954]

As you see, sometimes it's best to just start over.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

The reason for cleaning so much is because I was switching powders trying to nail down a load. I have always cleaned before trying a new powder just something I have always done. Once I have found a good repeatable load I generally don't clean until about 200 rounds or accuracy falls off.

Range Report
I took the rifle down, removed all the bedding an re-did it for a 3rd time. polished the bore with some JB, removed and replaced the base and installed new rings and mounted a new Burris 6-24 scope and loaded some rounds with the newly received 80gr Bergers and some H4895. Shot five foulers and let it cool then shot 3 five shot groups and letting it cool in between. Biggest measured just over .4 and smallest at the hottest load in the mid twos. Very happy with how it shot today. I will load more and continue to work my way up load wise and see how it does. Looks like there was some serious improvement but as yet unclear as to what one of the things I changed seemed to work.

Your previous loads seemed very mild to me. Try 31.0 h4895 with those 80's at touch, give or take.

 

[STOMP442]

Your previous loads seemed very mild to me. Try 31.0 h4895 with those 80's at touch, give or take.

I am going to work up to that. My previous loadings were showing pressure early. I worked up to 30.2gr this morning with no obvious signs of pressure. Groups were decent but not fantastic. They all hovered around the High .3s low .4s.

 

[Jkoch]

I assume that your brass growth was not too much, and you said your shoulder bump was 003 so technically even on the first firing if your headspace would be off your reload would be where it needed to be because you would only be 003 shoulder bump.

Another extremely important question is, are you annealing your brass? too much time in the heat., it will spoil groups and drive you mad. Trust me

I thought I knew what I was doing and I was going one second too long and it just got the case neck too soft…. if you can easily squish the case neck, it’s too damn soft.

Took a couple firings to get it back to where it needed to be.

And this next question would be extremely difficult to prove other than vertical stringing would be was the barrel heat treated properly
factories send out a crappy barrel once in a while
(quite possibly it’s just something simple as cutting the barrel down to rid of the pits on the end of the barrel)

 

[Webster]

I built this rifle a couple months ago. The intended purpose was something to punch paper with while I waited for other guns to cool. This was something to challenge myself with and practice my fundamentals. No serious competition just my enjoyment. Turns out this thing has been the most aggravating and discouraging rifle I have ever messed with. Rifle specs are as follows.

Tikka T3x Action
Krieger HV 12 twist finished at 24"
Richards Wolverine target stock pillar and glass bedded.
Jard 12oz trigger
Leupold one piece rail
Burris Signature Zee rings
Sightron SII Target 36x42
ADG Brass
CCI 450 Primers.

I have tried 64gr Bergers, 70gr Sierras and 85gr Sierras all with Varget, N133, N135, Benchmark and H4895. All bullets seem to shoot about the same. Best 5 shot groups I have been able to get, are high twos to mid threes which I would be extremely happy with if I could do it consistently. This rifle will not repeat, ever. I can work up a load with any given combo find one that shoots really well, go home and load enough for three or four five shot groups and never shoot a group under a half inch on my next outing. I am an experienced shooter and don't feel that I am the cause. I have had my wife shoot it (she is a better shooter than I am) with the same result so I am fairly positive that it is not shooter induced error. I have pulled the bedding and re-bedded the rifle, changed scopes, checked all action and base screws and done the cotton swab around the crown. Everything checks out fine. The 70gr Sierra seems to be the most consistent bullet out of this rifle and has give me most of the better groups this rifle has shot. I purchased a bore scope to look at the barrel and I did find a concerning area about an inch from the muzzle and these marks go 360 degrees at this spot. I guess my question is, this the cause of all my inconsistency? I am also attaching a target photo from my last outing. All groups were shot at 100 yards from a bench rest and rear bag. 29.0gr of N133 and the Sierra 70gr Match King. I spent the day prior working up a load with that bullet and powder combo and shot a group in the high twos. Took it back out to confirm and shot these three groups. Chrony data showed a velocity of 3208fps and SD of 5 over the course of fire, using a buddies new Garmin Unit. Barrel probably has 400 rounds on it at this point and I have been giving it a good cleaning every 50 rounds or so generally before switching powders to try.

Someone else can explain the scratches. Machining shouldn't creat pits. I would really like an expert opinion on how you get pits on a new barrel. Kreiger is a great barrel. Sounds like you have good parts but it not a BR gun. I have't shot many custon bullets in my 14 twist 6BR. 60 gr Sierra Varminter and Barts 68 gr Trophy match are the best I ever shot. Barts clearly better than Sierra. The rifle is for GH hunting any load under 1/2" is good enough for my purposes.

My standard load is a 58 gr Horandy V-Max with 33.3 Gr of 8208, I get 3585 fps without any signs of pressure. About 4200 shots, very good case life. H322 powder is also good. I have shot a few at 3610 without problems. I shoot the 58 V-max because they are good enough, resonable price and always in the store. Recently grabbing a couple boxes of the 60 GR Sierra's and skipping the Hornady.

 

[STOMP442]

The Richards Wolverine is not a Target stock. It a Sporter/Tactical style

Wolverine Style - Richards Microfit Stocks

New Tactical Style Grip for precision and long-range shooting. Enhanced Palm Swell for More Comfort and Control. For an additional fee, choose between Finger Grooves, Vertical Grip, or Curved Grip. Also available in a laminate version. Click here for laminate options.

richardsmicrofitgunstocks.com

Fully aware. Does not mean it still shouldn't shoot good. I did order mine with a 3" fore end though and it is very stable and comfortable.

 

[STOMP442]

Someone else can explain the scratches. Machining shouldn't creat pits. I would really like an expert opinion on how you get pits on a new barrel. Kreiger is a great barrel. Sounds like you have good parts but it not a BR gun. I have't shot many custon bullets in my 14 twist 6BR. 60 gr Sierra Varminter and Barts 68 gr Trophy match are the best I ever shot. Barts clearly better than Sierra. The rifle is for GH hunting any load under 1/2" is good enough for my purposes.

My standard load is a 58 gr Horandy V-Max with 33.3 Gr of 8208, I get 3585 fps without any signs of pressure. About 4200 shots, very good case life. H322 powder is also good. I have shot a few at 3610 without problems. I shoot the 58 V-max because they are good enough, resonable price and always in the store. Recently grabbing a couple boxes of the 60 GR Sierra's and skipping the Hornady.

This is my 3rd Krieger barrel and the only one I have ever had any issue with. My goal with this rig is to shoot consistent .3s I know it is not a traditional BR gun and maybe my expectations are too high but I don't think so. Given the 6BR capabilities and the components used I feel like that's an achievable goal at least 90% of the time. It's just about there.

 

[Carl S]

I would try Varget,or the equivalent.

 

[Rtheurer]

Pull the barrel and put another one on. Life is too short for all of that. Don't toss the current one just in case. But man... a 6BR that wont shoot...gotta be a barrel issue....