6 Dasher false shoulder question

[Keith Glasscock]

Quick one for the guys with experience. I'm in the process of building a dasher. I have a set of Wilson dies for it. Do I need a different die to do the false shoulder, or will the Wilson form one in the right place?

Tia,
Keith

 

[ridgeway]

Wilson neck die? Should work OK...you will only be sizing the neck on 6br brass anyhow. Nothing else needs sized.

 

[Killshot]

Wilson neck die? Should work OK...you will only be sizing the neck on 6br brass anyhow. Nothing else needs sized.

Nothing else?

I guess not - if you aren't counting the expander die to punch the neck out to 6.5mm before you size it back down to 6mm with a Neck or FL bushing die.....

 

[4xforfun]

I run my BR brass through a Sinclair expander mandrel with the 25E (25 expander) mandrel in it. I don't go to 6.5. I size them back down with an old fasioned Redding dasher non busing fl die with all the guts removed. It's a cheap die and it's only purpose in life is to create the false sholder on virgin brass. Once I find the proper setting ..a setting where I get a good solid crush fit when I close the bolt....I lock the die and throw away the key, so to speak. That die should NEVER need to be changed!!! I have a custom Fl bushing die that gets used after the first firing, and it has worked great with all of my dasher chambers done with several different reamers.

My FF load has been 31 G Varget with the old Berger 105 BT (not the VLD or Hybrid) and the CCI 450 primer. This combo in my FF tube are THE MOST ACCURATE COMBO I OWN.

I don't know if it helps, but I ALSO run a hard bullit jam. This combo has made EXCELENT dasher brass for me.

Tod

 

[benjamin199]

I neck up using a 6.5 21st century expander then use a Forster FL die to bring the neck back down and create the false shoulder. If you neck up to 6.5 it may take you a few steps with the Wilson bushings to get back down to 6mm without crushing your case necks.

 

[tenring]

The Wilson is not a F/L die; neck only. You want the shoulder to fit the chamber snugly. You must go down slowly until the 6.5 diameter section will fit.

My concern with the Wilson would be that it would create a too long or too short false shoulder. You could use shims to make it shorter.


I use a Redding 6BR F/L sizer die for this purpose. BTW, couple weeks ago, was sizing new brass and did not bring the false shoulder down far enuf.
Third shot blew the sear connector in trigger.

 

[expiper]

'ten ring',,,your pressure excursion is why I dont use bullets to FF,,,if your false shoulder is too much crimp on the bullet it will swage the case neck excessively around the bullet locking it in the chamber and skyrocketing the pressure,,,,I am an advocate of some type of shotgun/pistol (Univ clays/unique) powder and a 1/4 sq of toilet paper,,,,it give total case development and zero bbl. wear,,plus not using up your bullets!!!,,,,IMHO...Roger

 

[Keith Glasscock]

Figured it out,,, The Wilson die leaves the false shoulder about .040 too far forward. I'll just buy a full length die. Sinclair had them in stock the other day,

 

[jrm850]

Figured it out,,, The Wilson die leaves the false shoulder about .040 too far forward. I'll just buy a full length die. Sinclair had them in stock the other day,

Something else to think about...
If you plan on neck turning your brass before fireforming you may want to think about getting just a plain 6br die for forming the false shoulder. You will be able to form a false shoulder and have the benefit of being able to full length size the donor brass to iron out any dents before turning.

 

[4xforfun]

My experience...if you are going to neck turn ANYTHING, you should expand the necks.....MORE than any expander button in any die will expand them. You need to OVER expand them a bit so the brass turns easier on the turning mandrel. I threw out every expander button (The ones that come on the decapping pin) I owned and only use bushing dies. If i need to expand the necks or iron out dents i use the Sinclair tool with the proper expander rod.

If the brass isn't overly tight on the mandrel you can use plain old water as a lube when turning necks.

 

[jrm850]

My experience...if you are going to neck turn ANYTHING, you should expand the necks.....MORE than any expander button in any die will expand them. You need to OVER expand them a bit so the brass turns easier on the turning mandrel. I threw out every expander button (The ones that come on the decapping pin) I owned and only use bushing dies. If i need to expand the necks or iron out dents i use the Sinclair tool with the proper expander rod.

If the brass isn't overly tight on the mandrel you can use plain old water as a lube when turning necks.

What I have recently found using Lapua Blue box is that I ocassionally run into some pieces where the base of the neck doesn't get touched by the KM Expander I use so I resize the neck first. I have been thinking about just using a .25cal or 6.5 expander and turner mandrel and doing the turning while it is blown out. It would save a step and I could be sure that the entire neck ID was consistent before turning.